Ha yup, Luckily for me I was born and raised in New York so anywhere along the coast but there is welcome for me. What town did you grow up in?
Ambrose - It may be the intense end of the school year, it may be a torn finger ligament keeping me out of the water, only two days after I got back in after a major back injury, but that song, and your positive, dare I say aloha, attitude had me on the verge of tears… I hope to have that much love in the water some day. Mostly I go else where, sit for the shifters… But those days I’ve waited so long for, when the local is going off, and I, being the kook I am, think I’ve been paying dues surfing it alone when it’s big and mediocre, I find it a real challenge to greet those I’ve rarely or never seen with a smile… (Deep sigh… I do want to be more positive…)
Kokua - My thoughts at the time exactly, and that buddy in the tube use to be a top 20 traveling pro - He said maybe things are different here, but at Pipe, J-Bay, etc… If you were in the riders way, you get told were to go… IN!
I’ve felt the frustration of straightening out because others were paddling for the shoulder - or the time the guy was swimming for the shoulder dragging his board behind him…
I saw it somewhere else If the paddler had the right of way it would be called paddling not surfing. Yes the guy on the wave has the right of way
as to the original question - The guy in the tube totally has the right of way, probably couldn’t even see the paddling-out-guy, who in turn should have gladly taken a wave on the head rather than ruin another guy’s barrel — which proves that the guy who got run over was a dork and should have been sent home.
I would like to suggest that, in addition to trying to maintain some kind of etiquette and teach newbies the “rules”, another thing that might help with overcrowded breaks is to boycott the big surf industry. Stop buying anything that is mass marketed. Money is ruining surfing, or trying to anyway. Don’t support the continued commercialization of surfing. Make your own boards, or at least support a real shaper. And teach kids that surfing is learning to be in harmony with the ocean, not trying to make a buck off it.
that’s perfect Hannya
That was me. It was in one of the threads that got locked down. I said: "The activity in question is called “surfing”, not paddling. So, the person who is surfing has the right of way.
Another phrase I use often is:
“If you can’t stay out of the way, then go away”.
True confession…
I was washed way inside at Uppers-Trestles maybe some head high sets at best (I was sitting way deep for shifters, and got caught behind and washed in). No one was with in 40 yards of me in any direction, and was floating between white waters -Off my board… ducking under a bit when the white wash came, slowing washing in to make my way down to the channel… some guy starts padlding out about 30 yards down from me towards the channel. He yells at me, “If you can’t hold your board you don’t belong out here.” I looked at him, slowly turned my head way around from side to side - trying to make the point there was no one anywhere near me, not even between me and the shore - and slowly slid under the next white water… Ha!
Worse, I have tried to make the shoulder a couple time when I should’a just sat up/headed towards the white water/etc… lead to a close call, but didn’t actually interfere with the rider… Some times it is good to be able to duck dive …
How about on the take off? My rule is to always “split the peak” when surfing with others. I came across this in a board review on a different site and it rubbed me the wrong way.
“One more wave… (many others surfed… just one more really good one) decent sized set wave. WAY behind the peak**… WAY behind the peak**.
Drop in with the lip, set my edge… shortboarder on the other side of
the peak drops in… looks behind and sees me pumping for speed, kicks
out.”
Granted the point of the article was the quality of the board but with the amount of people surfing there needs to be some consideration for other ocean users.
I SUP with lots of respect and I know how a lineup works. I seem to never get any bad vibes or stinkeye from other surfers.
My home break is a beach break and there's plenty of peaks to be had but everyone always crowds to the far right corner known as surfers end. Whenever I go out I take an empty peak all to myself, I never have to worry about getting dropped in on or accidently dropping in on someone else. I don't like crowds anyways, so it works out.
Sounds like 2nd, Middletown
I know the place, well. Born and raised in the Ocean State. Lived in the “City by the Sea” for a brief time. Surfed that dump from around 1965 to 1972. Last time I was there, it was flat. Saved me the trouble of deciding whether I wanted to bother, or not. Still have family in RI. Don’t get back there, much. Can’t stand the place for more than 48 hrs.
Howzit Taylor, By any chance was the other guy wearing a leash.If he was I would have told him to take off the training wheels. Never used them. Aloha Kokua
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[quote="$1"]
My home break is a beach break and there's plenty of peaks to be had but everyone always crowds to the far right corner known as surfers end. [/quote]
Sounds like 2nd, Middletown
[/quote]
Bingo! you got that one right on the head.
[quote="$1"]
[quote="$1"]
My home break is a beach break and there's plenty of peaks to be had but everyone always crowds to the far right corner known as surfers end. [/quote]
Sounds like 2nd, Middletown
[/quote]
Bingo! you got that one right on the head.
UGH! I hate NY even more than RI.
E Prov.
Summers in 'Gansett from '62 to '66. My sister lives in 'Gansett, now.
If you hate NY more than RI, you can see why I like RI a lot more, no?
Hey Kokua - I had a leash… Otherwise I wouldn’t have been luxuriating sinking under the white waters while letting my board slowly drag me to the inside channel. Being Upper Trestles, I’m sure the guy had one on, and I’m pretty sure it was one of the George brothers when he worked at a surf mag there in San Clemente, would come out @ the 9am blow out when the crowds started to thin and rip the place with his long locks flowing in the wind… Ha!
I’m with you all the way Keith - But as that story went around here… It was the guy in the tube - who’d moved to town a couple years before, and, even though he has a great wave sharing attitude, some guys look down on him 'cuz he “use to be a pro…” - who people said “blew it,” and it was the grumpy old local who was wronged…
I use to make my own leashes…
the debate is eternal
as is seen in the last 4 pages here
10 pages there,6pages yonder.
Spirited exchanges erupt often out of
minute infractions.An odd justification
will make I never ito you always and
I just did to you what you did to me/my friend
—our friend on that last set/on that last wave
You have been getting too many waves,
I havn’t caught anywaves
+++ I’m going in and was catching just one more
but it was so good I had to come back out for just … one … more
god spoke to me and told me to take off on you
I thought you said Go when you were saying NO
the fact is ,without the required fly in the ointment,
some one in a group will magicly morph in to the
evil prince who drops in,or into the hopless duphuss
whohaplessly concludes the best paddle out is at odds
with the ride of my life centurion in bloom.
The world goes arround and arround and arrrrroooouuunnd.
the kook becomes the enthusiastic the waves are just coming to me
deluded savant,trans mogrifies into the
sanctimonious I never ever take off infront of anybody
with the reversed button up the back pendelton and the
soda-jerk hat living to surf saving haircut money for gas.
all justifications to surf in a social situation
dilute the purity of mind to wave relationships
into a study of social interactionrather than
extra stellar explorations into the physical
state of integrating concious creativity into
the chaos that is free running ocean wave interpretation.
Surfing based on the dora principle there
is only one rule ,there are no rules
can only be explored in a limited population base.
Add a guy out and yet another opinion has to be considered.
next thread in the series… what is a good reason for taking off in front of X_____________
…ambrose…