[ANNA]
[Spoken] It’s a very ancient saying,
But a true and honest thought,
That if you become a teacher,
By your pupils you’ll be taught.
>>>>>>a quite bitchin’ song
[Singing] As a teacher I’ve been learning –
You’ll forgive me if I boast –
And I’ve now become an expert,
On the subject I like most.
[Spoken] Getting to know you.
surfing is the best revealer
of human nature and personal traits.
changing the ‘‘rules’’ to fit pathos
is chronically nebulous ,yes like a gas star.
[Singing] Getting to know you,
Getting to know all about you.
Getting to like you,
Getting to hope you like me.
Getting to know you,
Putting it my way,
But nicely,
You are precisely,
My cup of tea.
surfing as a social tool
is an uncomparable leveler.
everyone is equal like nowhere before
in all of human interaction.
UNTIL IT IS NOT.
THEN THE HOARY
HEADED IT OF
SMALLNESS AND
SELF AGRANDIZEMENT
BECOMES THE EVIL
EMPEROR.
watching the you shoudas, I couldas;
I nevas ,you always’s,blossom like poppies in may
in a green pristine medow over taken by the skunk weed
or whatever follows the lupine and poppies that make
the seeds that get stuck in your bitchin’ new sox
make you wish it was just winter so you could
see the cycle start again.
the mangos from my tree in the yard
are so bitchin right now.
I ate one may 20 that was better
than a point wave at malibu
that guy that drops in
at the end of the video
freaked with guilt and
K S 's go behind got spoiled
if he just glided out his turn
they woulda rode
the wave to the peir .
if every one knows
each other and work
the spot together
the most waves are ridden
better than if only one
guy is out.Nothing better
than a hui or ohana.
Surfing was combatative
my friend carlos told me
one time on the topic
of competition in ancient hawaii.
I believe it can also be
the opportunity for people
to commune with nature
and each other.
…ambrose…
pick your poison