you lucky dog
make that dogs
I’m thinking Sting Ray and Greg Griffin were separated at birth. Mke
hmmm...dont know...but he has that "banker" look about him....sharp!
;)
finally got my beach car working this saturday after three months of no surfing and went down this morning just before max low.
Took my 6 year old 5 fin GG custom fish, the only 9’ jeff alexander gemni longboard i know of in existence and inspired by greg’s post this custom 6’8" thruster I got a couple years ago and have only ridden less than half a dozen times.
Starting walking down to paddle out to over crowded haubush(sandtracks) on the 5 fin fish but after looking down the beach at sharkcountry for some unexplained reason I decided to go back to the car and switch to the 6’8" and walk down to the break i grew up on and still love. At the time there were 4 longboarders out at a very inconsistant sharkcountry and 35+ out at haubush mostly longboarders and a couple of standups the waves were really small because of the low tide.
By time i walked all the way down to the rocks infront of my old uncle kui’s house and paddled out the four longboarders gave up and went in leaving me all by my lonesome sitting in one of the most shark infested breaks in ewa beach. But as always i gave my aloha and paid my respects to all my countless relatives we grew up with there who have since passed on asking them to watch over me, And before I knew it the outside reefs started firing from puuloa(ewa beach park) all the way down to seawalls and I had 3-4 hawaiian size sharkcountry lefts all too myself for the next three hours as the tide continued to drop and the onshores picked up. But the best part about it was being able to spend some quality time getting my backside act in tune again on this gift from Greg Griffin. The board never let me down the whole time i was out there whether it was scratching to get back out in the 10 waves sets that came thru so I could catch at least 2 waves a set or taking off late vertical and coming the around the corner with the lip on my back.
Felt so good to feel that in control and it helped me realize again the beauty of riding on my back hand at my favorite wave in all the world especially after a 2-3 months layover. It was a little sad not to be able to share the stoke with a friend but that’s the nature of the beast with sharkcountry you’re either blessed with good fortune or your not. And today I was blessed. After about three hours another guy who looked lost paddled out but i was sunburnt, thirsty and when a baby honu popped up next to me to say hello I knew it was time to go home. As that is one of the favorite meals of the big tigers. As i was walking the 20 minute walk back down the beach to my car i noticed the onshores had picked up noticeably and most everyone had already come in too.
Thanks to akua for blessing me today with this gift (3-4’ long sharkcountry walls all to myself)
and thanks Greg
it’s another great board
just what i needed today.
For those who aren’t aware of it GG makes some pretty damn good rock solid thrusters
its just that all the fancy multi fin stuff is what catches everyones eye these days.
Sometimes all you need as a surfer is a trusty thruster.
Great story, Bernie. And I am still loving the modfish.
You forgot to include the part where you woke up and found that it was all a dream.
hahaha
brotherly love / brotherly jealousy [and don't i know about THAT , having looked at simon's photos of his last month in the mentawaiis [check facebook if you doubt ...]
you beat me to it , sharkman !
...after reading you had it all to yourself bernie , i was actually going to ask "where was "sharky' [your brother ] ??... "wakey wakey hand off snakey harry " , [if you beat it , then sometimes you miss it ...at least , that's what rubberlove reckoned !]
heeeheee
Hey Ben, if I can’t give my brother a little grief life just ain’t right. We were supposed to go surfing in town today, but I call him this morning and he says he didn’t bring his board in, and we have to wait until Thursday.
Always fun to surf with your brother, but not always easy to get together. Awfully strange for living on an island and only being about 30 miles from each other.