Just got back from freezing cold dawn patrol at Lowers. Four to six people out the whole time. Crisp little head high plus waves were the call of the morning. Oh, yeah the bonzer works absolutely sick. It is super loose and positve. It is incredible how forgiving it is on the landings. I had several reentrys that I thought I was just going to stuff the nose on. Instead I would just drive through with another bottom turn. So, if it was that good at Lower’s, the reefs have to be going off!
Just got back from freezing cold dawn patrol at Lowers. Four to six people > out the whole time. Crisp little head high plus waves were the call of the > morning.>>> Oh, yeah the bonzer works absolutely sick. It is super loose and positve. > It is incredible how forgiving it is on the landings. I had several > reentrys that I thought I was just going to stuff the nose on. Instead I > would just drive through with another bottom turn.>>> So, if it was that good at Lower’s, the reefs have to be going off! Yesterday,I surfed H.B.in the latter morning with some nice biggies to be had.I soon got tired of drifting down the beach,and walking back, repetitively. So,I took a ride to blackies to find this waist to should high,mildly blown out stuff.Decided to head out after seeing Kim hammrock grab a few little bowls,and saw the imfamous white rambler in the lot.It had a crowd on it not really thick,but all longboards,and me on my 6’-1"…no problem, I picked-up a couple( with the a little help from my friends).Talked a bit with Bob O Kennedy ,and split a couple nice ones with him.Also, I got to catch up with Steve Page,Steve you split before I could say '“laters” . Then all of a sudden about 12:30pm everyone took off (they must have ran out of quarters, I guess?).The wind dropped off to nothing,and the waves picked up, sizable,got some of the best waves that I have ever gotten at Blackie’s.I surfed until about 2pm,and killed it!..THANKYOU GOD,for looking out for me and giving me my Christmas gift early,happy,happy,…Herb.
Sounds sweet. I guess the deal is get motivated and get out there. I thought about bailing work yesterday. It was beautiful. But, I couldn’t bring myself to do it. Other than the pain of no hood or booties it was very fun this morning.
Sounds sweet. I guess the deal is get motivated and get out there. I > thought about bailing work yesterday. It was beautiful. But, I couldn’t > bring myself to do it. Other than the pain of no hood or booties it was > very fun this morning. I’ts been fun up north at C-street and Rincon. Shoulder high clean but ccold. Dawn patrol yesterday and my hands turned to ice blocks.
the points up here in santa cruz have been overhead and somewhat jumbled due to the proximity of the storms. but don’t get me wrong, jumbled overhead pointbreak waves with no crowds are insane. i’ll take it anyday. just wish the water wasn’t 52 degrees. brrrr. kirk
sorry herb, i ditched ya. but after 5 hours the cold and hunger set in, i was out of quarters, and just too damn tired to keep going. so after i lost my board and swam in… well, i just decided to call it quits. sorry again. im sure we’ll meet up again soon though. -steve
sorry herb,>>> i ditched ya. but after 5 hours the cold and hunger set in, i was out of > quarters, and just too damn tired to keep going. so after i lost my board > and swam in… well, i just decided to call it quits. sorry again. im sure > we’ll meet up again soon though.>>> -steve… it got really,really good after you and everyone left. I had to pinch myself to make sure I was alive and didn’t break my neck or drown! I have an extra set of chargers(blue,like the ones you saw on my fish)that you can have if you what to try them out.Had them yesterday,but I understand when the meter’s running, and you are out of quarters,time is precious.Herb.
Water temp is 51 degrees…plus wind chill. Waves are double overhead and PUMPING! Fort Bragg CA is Way big. Super nice hollow lefts if you could only get out to them and not get killed on the rocks! No way in He.l I’m going out there. Jeepers…even Mr Hanky stayed home today!
yeah, i would love to try those chargers out. or at least borrow them and try to make a pair for myself. thanks! steve