Are these signs of an impending mid-life crisis? I hope not.
I shape because I can take something ugly and redefine it into something I (or someone else) can enjoy and do it into a relatively short period of time. It keeps me from watching too much TV (and consuming too much beer).
I used to be into cars and racing, but the car was an ongoing, endless project (and usually broken), required lots of work (and money), and took up all of my free time. Then came relationships. They were an ongoing, endless project (and usually broken), required lots of work (and money), and took up all of my free time.
I do catch more waves with my boards and have created some “magic boards” for a few friends. If my friends are stoked, I’m stoked. My car was never stoked and my girlfriend was German. Need I say more.
Maybe, it’s a way to deal with the guilt. We’ve spent so much of our breath, pursuing this hedonistic, purely pleasure based activity, that maybe, we’ve found a creative outlet, a way to feel like we’re not wasting our lives.
Living a life in a time and place in history that we are able to pursue pleasure so energetically, special times indeed.
um, yeah ok. I guess I’ll be the honest one here then. My wife won’t let me buy 6-8 new boards a year at $550-$850 per board, but she doesn’t complain when I make that many at $110 each.
On my first surf 25years ago, I thought man this board would be better with a wider tail. After having kids I can see we come out like this from birth. It is not our fault my brain is hard wired this way. A great way to waste time having fun worrying about nothing. I surf in a place that the (normal) boards are not made for and don’t last longer than three months.
I we get to a point in our lives where we know ourselves so well that what we want to ride is easier to make than explaining to someone else what to do. I know my boards aren’t as good as the ones I have from BK, or Downing, or Griffin, but I have a whole lot of fun riding them. It’s also pretty cool that people admire the boards I’ve made, and are pretty stoked that I could do it. When I get on one of the “name” boards, I feel like I’m driving a fine tuned sports car. It’s a nice contrast.
It doesn’t hurt that we can save a ton of money working through several designs until we’re satisfied that we’ve got it just right. I also like the durability of the compsands, and there aren’t a lot of people making them.
Some blokes are doers, others aren’t. My lawn is usually the longest, my home maintenance isnt that great, considering im a tradesman, but my kegs are full, and i shape, and surf ( or attempt to! ) because its an awesome feeling, just like when your daughter smiles at you, and you just cant buy it, no matter how much plastic numbers you have. I can’t wait to get our first actually in the water, no matter how ugly it is. And, like lavarat says, having fun worrying about nothing, which does get harder with a baby, a mortgage, a wife ( lucky she’s great! ), and a looming redundancy. Im the kind of person that is not a good craftsman, so i absolutely dig when i see people who make nice things, by hand, whether it be beer, surfboards, clocks, whatever. I know things come with time, so i just have to be patient. Down with mass production i say!, hand crafted is beautiful!.