I’ve seen some pretty sweet looking longboards in the board showcase so I am hoping you guys can help me. on the average “all around” longboard outline where is the wide point located? I am trying to make a template for a 9’ 0" (finally)! And I am LOST. Help!!! I’m guessing a Longboard is a lot tougher to shape than the average 6’ 2" Every time I walk by that 9’ 1"Y blank it growls at me! Any advice will be put to good use. Thank you and have a great weekend, Scott.
I’ve seen some pretty sweet looking longboards in the board showcase so I > am hoping you guys can help me. on the average “all around” > longboard outline where is the wide point located? I am trying to make a > template for a 9’ 0" (finally)! And I am LOST. Help!!! I’m guessing > a Longboard is a lot tougher to shape than the average 6’ 2" Every > time I walk by that 9’ 1"Y blank it growls at me! Any advice will be > put to good use. Thank you and have a great weekend, Scott. What kind of longboard do you want? What kind of wave do you want to ride? How do you want to ride it? Do you want it to handle beefy drop turns, or coax speed out of sloppy waves? Do you want to nose ride it? Do you want stability or turnability?
What kind of longboard do you want?>>> What kind of wave do you want to ride? How do you want to ride it?>>> Do you want it to handle beefy drop turns, or coax speed out of sloppy > waves?>>> Do you want to nose ride it?>>> Do you want stability or turnability? Noodle, what I want is a versatile board for 1’ to 4’ foot easy breaking California summer surf. Stuff like Ventura fairgrounds and Pismo pier, So I’m guessing it’ll need to coax some speed out of the wave. If it could handle some power that would be cool too. Nose rides, yes, but a dedicated noserider, no. Kinda loose and turny would be OK, but not overly so. Sorta a jack of all trades if thats possible. The numbers I am considering are 9’ 0" top measured, 18" nose 23" wide 15" tail. Single box fin with fcs side fins. Sorry I sound so vague and cant be more helpful, but I don’t have any longboard experience (shaping or surfing)it just looks so cool. I usually surf a 7’ 2" x 21" tri fin. Thanks, Scott.
Noodle, what I want is a versatile board for 1’ to 4’ foot easy breaking > California summer surf. Stuff like Ventura fairgrounds and Pismo pier, So > I’m guessing it’ll need to coax some speed out of the wave. If it could > handle some power that would be cool too. Nose rides, yes, but a dedicated > noserider, no. Kinda loose and turny would be OK, but not overly so. Sorta > a jack of all trades if thats possible. The numbers I am considering are > 9’ 0" top measured, 18" nose 23" wide 15" tail. Single > box fin with fcs side fins. Sorry I sound so vague and cant be more > helpful, but I don’t have any longboard experience (shaping or surfing)it > just looks so cool. I usually surf a 7’ 2" x 21" tri fin. > Thanks, Scott. I’m no expert, but… Can you cary an average 23" wide board under your arm? I can’t. My board would need to be a little narrower, with proportional narrowing of nose and tail widths. I would want the wide point of an allround longboard to be offset forward of center by about the difference between the nose width and the tail width. In the example above, 3". As shown in previous postings, this is preference. I like your 15" tail width for smaller surf. I would make the tail square or squash, maybe 5". This combination and Yater rocker will aid in catching and gliding on smaller waves. As I remember from Clark’s description, that blank was extended to 9-3 or 9-4, with lots of the additional length added in highly rockered tail foam. I would consider cutting your 9-0 shape out of the nose of the 9-1Y blank for “glidey” waves. I would dispose of the unneeded length from the tail. I’ll work up a half-board outline from your specs you could draw out on brown paper if you like.
Here’s the outline matrix. It has a round nose, a 5" stern, with the dimensions you gave: Length Width 0 0.00 0 2.50 1 3.48 2 4.14 3 4.67 4 5.12 5 5.51 6 5.87 7 6.19 8 6.49 9 6.77 10 7.03 11 7.27 12 7.50 13 7.72 14 7.92 15 8.12 16 8.31 17 8.48 18 8.65 19 8.81 20 8.97 21 9.12 22 9.26 23 9.40 24 9.53 25 9.65 26 9.77 27 9.88 28 9.99 29 10.10 30 10.20 31 10.30 32 10.39 33 10.48 34 10.56 35 10.64 36 10.72 37 10.79 38 10.86 39 10.92 40 10.98 41 11.04 42 11.09 43 11.14 44 11.19 45 11.24 46 11.28 47 11.31 48 11.35 49 11.38 50 11.41 51 11.43 52 11.45 53 11.47 54 11.48 55 11.49 56 11.50 57 11.50 58 11.50 59 11.50 60 11.50 61 11.50 62 11.50 63 11.50 64 11.49 65 11.49 66 11.49 67 11.48 68 11.47 69 11.47 70 11.45 71 11.44 72 11.42 73 11.40 74 11.38 75 11.35 76 11.32 77 11.29 78 11.25 79 11.20 80 11.15 81 11.09 82 11.03 83 10.96 84 10.88 85 10.79 86 10.69 87 10.58 88 10.46 89 10.33 90 10.19 91 10.03 92 9.86 93 9.68 94 9.47 95 9.25 96 9.00 97 8.73 98 8.43 99 8.10 100 7.74 101 7.33 102 6.88 103 6.36 104 5.76 105 5.05 106 4.18 107 2.99 108 0.00
Thanks Noodle, I cant wait to see what this looks like, Scott.
You’re welcome, Scott. Keep us posted. If you want to tweak the dimensions after you see it, say so. I have this program set on autopilot now. Would you like a mid-board rail cross section matrix? I’d recommend a rail template for us novices. These pros concentrate on “banding”, or how much rail to remove. Novices are more concerned with the final rail shape, how much rail to leave. Glass adds about 0.2" of thickness. How thick do you want the foam?
You’re welcome, Scott.>>> Keep us posted. If you want to tweak the dimensions after you see it, say > so. I have this program set on autopilot now.>>> Would you like a mid-board rail cross section matrix? I’d recommend a rail > template for us novices. These pros concentrate on “banding”, or > how much rail to remove. Novices are more concerned with the final rail > shape, how much rail to leave.>>> Glass adds about 0.2" of thickness. How thick do you want the foam? Noodle, at this point I’m not sure what style of rail to use. I’ve got the banding thing down pretty good, just have not done it on a longboard. I’ll let you know how things are going. Thanks again, Scott.
Noodle, at this point I’m not sure what style of rail to use. I’ve got the > banding thing down pretty good, just have not done it on a longboard. I’ll > let you know how things are going. Thanks again, Scott. Pro or am., it is always a good idea to draw a cross-section of a rail. This heps you plan(not plane) your bands. Not neccessary, but recomended to bisect bands. Bisecting can be done no matter what type of rail you are shooting for. Bisecting can make measuring easier. Use a mid-low, which means nothing to you if you haven’t made a template and crossections which evenly distribute measurement to differentiate between, the five major types of rails: boxy, mid-high, mid, mid-low, low. These names are given for the apex of the rail line, and the look. Low= low apex. Boxy, looks boxy and has lots of volume but corky. Enough of the lesson. I would recommend a mid-low: decent volume and control, draw is average. Though the mid rail seems to be somewhere in between all of them. The mid low actually gives a bit better control in most situations and waves. Best thing is to ride a few more boards with different rails and pay attention when turning on rail and not the fins or nose slipping. Many guys make the mistake of judging rails by the entire boards feel. Mistake cause all parts affect a board. But of course you can’t try a board without fins, or can you HERB?
I rode my brothers 9’ 0" this weekend. Its a performance longboard with a thruster fin set up. the rails are pretty much like a short board (mid low). I have a fun shape that has softer rounder rails with no tuck at all. I’m thinking of something sorta like a cross between the two, say 50-50 in the nose blending to a roundy mid low with a tucked under edge for most of the board and then pretty darn hard for the last 20" or so. I’ll probably measure up around 1 3/8" to 1 5/16" from the bottom to mark my top rail line bevel (mid-board). I would use a rail template but I don’t know what measurement to give Noodle, I have never heard of rail templates before. I shape rails pretty much the same way as J.C. does in his video, but with a few more navigational marks for good measure. Thank guys for all your help, Scott.>>> Pro or am., it is always a good idea to draw a cross-section of a rail. > This heps you plan(not plane) your bands. Not neccessary, but recomended > to bisect bands. Bisecting can be done no matter what type of rail you are > shooting for. Bisecting can make measuring easier.>>> Use a mid-low, which means nothing to you if you haven’t made a template > and crossections which evenly distribute measurement to differentiate > between, the five major types of rails: boxy, mid-high, mid, mid-low, low. > These names are given for the apex of the rail line, and the look. Low= > low apex. Boxy, looks boxy and has lots of volume but corky. Enough of the > lesson.>>> I would recommend a mid-low: decent volume and control, draw is average. > Though the mid rail seems to be somewhere in between all of them. The mid > low actually gives a bit better control in most situations and waves.>>> Best thing is to ride a few more boards with different rails and pay > attention when turning on rail and not the fins or nose slipping. Many > guys make the mistake of judging rails by the entire boards feel. Mistake > cause all parts affect a board. But of course you can’t try a board > without fins, or can you HERB?