Wisdom of the Wave: 10 Life Lessons from Laird Hamilton

General Discussion
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from USA WEEKEND…

Quote:

Wisdom of the wave Laird Hamilton shares 10 life lessons learned from surfing.

By Melanie D.G. Kaplan

Surfing legend Laird Hamilton says the ocean is one of the greatest teachers. “Simple laws and philosophies can be traced to the purity of the ocean,” says Hamilton, who created tow-in surfing, in which surfers are towed like water skiers into massive waves.

This year, the 44-year-old dives into some new waters. His clothing line – a men’s surf and skate collection called Wonderwall – launched exclusively at Steve & Barry’s stores in May. His documentary “Path of Purpose,” which raises awareness of autism, will debut on the Sundance Channel this month. Hamilton says in every venture, every new experience, he applies these lessons he has learned on the water:

1. KNOW THAT YOU ARE A SPECK ON THE WATER. “The ocean’s vastness reminds you of your insignificance. It’s like a grounder. The ocean has been around long before people got here and will be here long after. The humility you learn from being in the ocean is a constant reminder of your vulnerability.”

2. GO BIG OR GO HOME. “You can’t kind of catch a wave. You either catch it or you don’t. It’s a commitment. That’s just like anything else – you either go or you don’t. He who hesitates is lost in the end.”

3. LISTEN TO YOUR GUT. “You have a feeling about things. You think something doesn’t feel right, then you look and see a shark. As a species, humans are growing away from listening to their instinct. It’s a learned skill based on survival and then reacting. The more you listen to your instinct and then react to it, the more you awaken the spirit, and that helps you make good decisions, no matter where you are.”

4. UNDERSTAND YOU’RE NOT IN CONTROL. “Being a human, you want to think you can control circumstances. It’s cold, so you turn on the heat; you’re hot, so you turn on the air conditioning. The ocean reminds you that you really don’t have any control: It’s in control when you’re in it. The sooner you embrace that, the easier it will be in other aspects of your life.”

5. GET WET. “The ocean is a healer, big-time. We just don’t have any idea of the magnitude of what the ocean provides us. If you just go down to the beach, go out to surf and come right back in, you feel better about yourself. If you ride a wave, that’s just icing on the cake.”

6. PUT THINGS IN PERSPECTIVE. “People talk about their problems. Stuck in traffic? That’s not a problem. Don’t know how you’re going to pay your bills? Not a [life-or-death] problem. A problem is when you’re 80 miles offshore and have no way to get back.”

7. KEEP LEARNING. “Surfing is probably one of the most difficult sports. There are no referees, no timeouts. [The waves don’t] care about your bank account, your ancestry, your intelligence. It’s just you working the water. And the more I learn, the more I don’t know. That’s an ocean lesson.”

8. BE DETERMINED. "With determination, most things will be quite easy. You go out and get hammered by a wave and then by another one and another one, and you think, ‘OK, I’m still here.’ And then you get a good wave, and you’ve made it. The one thing that’s great about surfing is that there’s no right or wrong way. "

9. DON’T GET STALE. “Ideas [about new surfing techniques and new sports] come out of boredom and my desire to be passionate. You have to figure out ways to make things exciting and interesting. When something I’ve been doing for a while becomes popular, I’m beyond it. So by default, I end up being different. It’s that whole desire to keep inspiring and keep renewing your passion.”

10. DON’T JUDGE. “The ocean is non-judgmental. It doesn’t differentiate between you and the next guy. I want to be a little more like the ocean – not judging people who have an opinion. One of the most important lessons I’ve learned is that we’re all equal before a wave.”

…i know it’s off topic… but i liked the article… and wanted to share.

peace & waves…

~ brandon.

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“Off topic”.

Not at all.

I especially like 3,4,6 and 10.

Modern humans have lost touch with the natural environment.

Being in the ocean is elemental.

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Howzit soulstice, I don’t consider your post as off topic, it is what the ocean is about and how it affects people. Read it in the Honolulu Advertiser this morning and liked what I read. Over the last 35 years on Kauai I have had the pleasure of surfing with Laird, Gabby and Bill Hamilton a lot, and i can say they are having fun.Aloha,Kokua

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I liked it too. I think most folks who hate on LH are jealous of his lifestyle and success… and rightly so. But he obviously has a good head on his shoulders, and I admire the heck out if him even if its not cool to do so anymore.

I didn’t know he created tow-in surfing, though. Maybe popularized… But created?

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Howzit Shwuz, Never realized people might hate Laird but I’m sure he’s not the only one hated. He and Buzzy may not have invented towing in but they definitely made it popular as you said. They were wake surfing when the light went on in their heads and they definitely took it to the next level. I do believe that Laird did invent the wave board that rides above the water,I wonder where that idea came from? Aloha,Kokua

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Kokua, the hydrofoil has been around for over a century before Laird found a new application. From power boats to sailboats to windsurfers and then to tow-in surfing.

Nice article and Laird’s ten are right on target.

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Howzit Ron, Wonder if he patented the new application? Aloha,Kokua

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http://www.hydrofoil.org/history.html

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I think Laird is hated for the same reasons Kelly Slater is hated: they are both successful, at surfing, an activity that we have to pay others to participate in - others pay them. I mean, what’s there to like about him??? He’s good looking, married to a gorgeous Olympic volleyball player, created his own business, popularized tow-in then SUP surfing, gets paid to ride waves… What’s there to like???

Actually, I kinda like his 10 lessons learned. Damn, he’s got some wisdom too. I hate him…

CoWaBunGA

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Quote:

I think Laird is hated for the same reasons Kelly Slater is hated: they are both successful, at surfing,

I think there is some quiet resentment from a lot of people not because they are successful, but because they are worshipped…that’s just weird and wrong, and rubs a lot of folks the wrong way. But I don’t know anybody who knows “what’s what” (and hasn’t had to ride behind them a lot) that doesn’t respect them as individuals and for what they’ve done in the water, even if the hype bothers them. The hype and the people are two different things. Modern society tries to hide the difference, so it isn’t always easy to see or remember.

If somebody is really, truly bothered by the success of somebody else…well…they need to either seek professional help or find a hobby.

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Some people “worship” Tiger Woods too - is that weird and wrong? How many guys have won 6 (7?) world titles at anything or ridden 80 foot waves? Groms and kuks need their heroes, there’s nothing wrong with a little hero worship here and there.

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Quote:

Some people “worship” Tiger Woods too - is that weird and wrong? How many guys have won 6 (7?) world titles at anything or ridden 80 foot waves? Groms and kuks need their heroes, there’s nothing wrong with a little hero worship here and there.

:wink: you used the word “worship” in quotes…I didn’t…if by “worship” you mean having respect for their skills and accomplishments and whatnot to the point of fixation or emulation even, I’m fine with that. But if you worship them like gods or something…that’s an easy slope to start sliding down for young people especially…it makes one’s life smaller…and if others think they are getting a whiff of that in contemporary surf culture there are going to be a few comments. The people who have been around a while have seen a lot of BS come and go…and stay, too, for that matter.

I’m the guy who tried to start the internet rumor that Hamilton tried to standup surf on Slater’s back…literally…Slater bodysurfing with Hamilton standing there. I can see by these words that I should have tried selling it the other way around. At the time Slater was getting great publicity for having entered the Pipe Bodysurfing Championships, as if that long-standing event really didn’t matter until footboarders got involved. It was in jest, and my guess is those guys would have got a kick out of it.

Yeah, semantics…I know. But whenever “celebrity” and “marketing” are involved, so are manipulation and deception. Again, my comments have to do with this aspect of their careers, not their achievements…for which only a completely clueless person would fail to respect. Such things so fully and obviously earned are subject to respect and admiration without reserve.

Nels

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I know I’ve been accused of not having any sometimes.

But it all comes down to the common sense

of anyone that’s live near or “on” the seas for many years.

There’s a million of these parables

Laird folks are just sound biting a couple for the wannabees.

just like they say never turn your back to the ocean when picking opihi from the rocks

I’m sure those crazy characters from the “Deadliest Catch” series have their own versions for what they do in the Bearing Strait.

Lopez has a cutie from “Liquid” about “almost” drowning that’s just as enlightening.

Anyway I definitely like these better than Shaun’s Surfer Code or Nate’s Surfer Code they put on that beach sign.

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Quote:

:wink: you used the word “worship” in quotes…I didn’t…if by “worship” you mean having respect for their skills and accomplishments and whatnot to the point of fixation or emulation even, I’m fine with that. But if you worship them like gods or something…that’s an easy slope to start sliding down for young people especially…it makes one’s life smaller…

Well, I think even the groms today don’t worship anybody like gods. Not the ones I know. They’re way too sophisticated for that. Too many Barry Bond stories. But, I get your point. You are put off by folks who worship Laird and Kelly like gods. I would be too. I’d be damned scared of anybody that worships humans like gods. Like, I’d be freaked out if somebody told me they have an alter at home for Laird or Kelly and make sacrifices in their names. I’d be totally wiggin’ out… :slight_smile: CoWaBunGA

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I’ll add to some for the great waterman to get up on-

Respect other people in the water Laird. Being a dick gets you no where.

Dont act like you own the Ocean. You dont. Some are bigger, some are better. Your no Duke. Your no Kelly. There are others who charge bigger then you, like Liam, and they do have pleeny aloha.

Don’t give stink eye to people in the water for no reason. Pretty girls on longboards, actually models, who arent in your way, isnt very nice.

Dont be obvious in licking the asses of you lame $1000 SUP lessons, then vibe everyone else. Hollywood producer, in their reef booties, and running shorts, with the baseball caps astride there 12 foot SUP’s, arent much more cooler then you, especially when its clear what its all about.

Dont stand up paddle 5 miles away EVERYDAY to come surf a place that you act like you own. You dont. We call this weak.

If you claim ambassador of the sport act like it. However you dont have my vote it would go more toward Alex Knost or Kelly Slater.

Don’t act like a licenseeing whore and claim roots. That stink of money making shit sucks… Ooh wait just throw on some more Davidoff and it should cover it up.

Be sure to know, not everyone thinks your so relevant… talent is talent but aloha is aloha.

I appreciate your charging, and all, but I’ll take Kalama over you anyday. I could bring up other things but I think it is clear. Personal integrity and public integrity are not to seperated, or are they.

So please go away…

There is another channel to paddle somewhere, and as you leave, dont forget to not come back-

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Howzit oneula, Just so happens I rent to one of those deadliest catch guys. He has so many stories about how dangerous the Bering sea is. The program is a good one but hearing what really happens is sad. He will be returning to that profession next year. He has his captains license and is also an engineer, and he grew up only about 5 miles from me. Maybe people still relate tp Laird as Lance in the North Shore movie.Aloha,Kokua

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Laird is da man!