Wood_Ogres balsa hollow wood hollow rail, fish with an attitude!!!

Ladyssssss is a pain in the ass!!!! My lady just came home from school and called me up for talk about her best freinds personal problems. As if a care ! I got to eat Crow for lunch. I did the show and tell with a neighbor when I was 5 years old. Maybe that explains why I flunked first grade ! Swied, I got chine strips ,just aint got there yet. Don't they really call those things chine logs?

[IMG]http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r195/Wood_Ogre/March2009055.jpg[/IMG] Before I start puting the peaces to gether theres a couple more very important things to do. Here I am useing a transfer wheel ( in this case a washer that is the same thickness as the board skins). I run the wheel around the rib to make a outline that is the same as the rib plus the thickness of the skin. I only need the rail profile.(not the whole rib.

[IMG]http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r195/Wood_Ogre/March2009056.jpg[/IMG] I used scraps of 1/8 inch plywood and made one of these for each rib. You can see what I did in this photo. I will file these away untill I am ready to make the rails then I will cut them out and they will become my GO gauges for my rails. You cant shape a rail in thin air so I need all the help I can get. Any questions on this? Pay close attention cause there may be a test at the end of the thread and if there is enough interest---well something might happen! Enough said about that for now. Tell all your friends to take notes. In fact you better PM everyone you know and tell them to get there butts over here or they will miss out !!! Ahui Hou

Looking great…!!!..

One suggestion; make the two outer layers of the rails solid…

Way less chance of a sand through and that second inner strip adds a lot of strength…

Can’t wait to see the deck…!!!..

 

 

Thanks for coming aboard Paul. Your advise is always welcome. You have been an insperation for a lot of people ! 

[IMG]http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r195/Wood_Ogre/March2009059.jpg[/IMG] Before starting to assemble any of my parts I scribed the shape of the deck crown on every frame (rib) to scrap 2x4s. I scribed 2 lines. one the exact shape and the other I used a transfere wheel the thickness of the skins. These 2x4s will be used for the assemble fixture and then again for clamping cauls for the deck skin.

[IMG]http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r195/Wood_Ogre/March2009058.jpg[/IMG] This is scribeing the thickness of the skin useing the transfer wheel.

[IMG]http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r195/Wood_Ogre/March2009060.jpg[/IMG] I cut 4 strips of poplar wood 1/4 inch by 1/2 inch , from a 12 foot long board. These are my chine logs. Then I bent them around my half template and marked the location of each rib. 

[IMG]http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r195/Wood_Ogre/March2009070.jpg[/IMG] I cut out the location of each chine log on the ribs plus the width of one rail strip.

this thread is so what sways is about positive and constructive

cant wait for more

It's almost time to start assembling those parts. But first I drew a line down my work bench useing a straight edge. I transfered the rib location from my 1/2 template to that line. Then useing a frameing squere I extended the those marks on both sides of the center line to give the location of the ribs. These lines will be used to line up the spine and all the ribs. So now its time to glue the ribs to the spine. I used epoxy thickend with fiberglass hawaii Thicksill for glue. [IMG]http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r195/Wood_Ogre/March2009062.jpg[/IMG]

The assemble goes fast. as I glue the ribs to the spine I hold them in place with pinch clamps. You will note that I have the spine ends suported by a jar and some pinch clamps

[IMG]http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r195/Wood_Ogre/March2009063.jpg[/IMG]

Please note that there is no rocker table or any other fixtures being used yet on this assembly. Because I build one off furniture and cabinets I have found that building complicated jigs and fixture take to much time. Save the complicated jigs and fixtures for limited or mass production work.

[IMG]http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r195/Wood_Ogre/March2009064.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r195/Wood_Ogre/March2009065.jpg[/IMG]  I transfere the nose shape onto a scrap of 1/8 plywood and then deduct the width of the rails and scribe a line this will be my template for building the nose.

I do the same with the tail section for a template for makeing the fish tail. This only takes a few min. because it is just traced of the 1/2 template. The tail template wants to extend up to at least the second frame.

[IMG]http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r195/Wood_Ogre/March2009067.jpg[/IMG]

ONE WORD: RESPECT!

SD

We want more!

The tail template is clamped to the frame. Makeing the butt crack is a bit more complicated than the nose!

 

[IMG]http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r195/Wood_Ogre/March2009073.jpg[/IMG]

i concur.

this is a GREAT thread.

thanks for sharing Wood_Ogre.

and thank you Ambrose for inviting him over to play.

 Next step was to alighn the spine and clamp it to the work bench . I used several clamping blocks made from 2/4s . I use these blocks alot in my shop so I allready had them at hand and have them in several sizes. You will see close ups laiter in the pictures. The blocks were lined up with the centerline on the work bench and fastened to the bench with 2 woodscews. then the spine was clamped to them with the blue Irwin clamps.

[IMG]http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r195/Wood_Ogre/March2009069.jpg[/IMG]

The chine logs were then layed into their notches and held in place with rubber bands .Lining up the marks with the frames. because of the rubber bands they can be adjusted easily. The ends were left to run free. The center frame is squared with a frameing square and clamped to a clampblock.This will self alighn all the other frames. The nose template was alighned with a frame (rib) and clamped with pinch clamps. The bottom chine logs are bent fallowing the lines on the template, Sawed to fit and clamped to the template. The top chine logs were done next.

[IMG]http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r195/Wood_Ogre/March2009071.jpg[/IMG]

Starting to look like something.

[IMG]http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r195/Wood_Ogre/March2009076.jpg[/IMG]

rubber bands and clamping block

[IMG]http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r195/Wood_Ogre/March2009075.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r195/Wood_Ogre/March2009072.jpg[/IMG]

Balsa wood nose blocks were cut to fit between the chine logs and the spine. The shape of these blocks were marked off from the 1/2 board template. When I was sure everything was fitting nicely I mixed some epoxy glue and glued the frames to the chine logs and glued in the nose blocks.(PS I had put clear 3M tap on the nose template so I wouldn't glue anything to the template.) I glued only back to the center frame(rib) and would do the rest when I did the tail end. Because of the rubber band clamping I could just pull out the chine log and put glue on the frame notch and let the rubber band pull it back tight. There will be more pictures showing the clamping in detail.

[IMG]http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r195/Wood_Ogre/March2009077.jpg[/IMG]

Note that I have slid some blocks of wood under the frame frome chine to chine to keep the board on an even keel.

[IMG]http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r195/Wood_Ogre/March2009080.jpg[/IMG]

More!! Hope your takeing notes!!

[IMG]http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r195/Wood_Ogre/March2009074.jpg[/IMG]

Time to cut off the extra nose.

[IMG]http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r195/Wood_Ogre/March2009079.jpg[/IMG]

you have a lot of cool tools.  and you are good with them.  and I am not.  and I am just amazed and what you can do. love the the washer trick.    got one for making the outline smaller?

can't wait for the finish.  thx for sharing.