I have a 10ft log blank with a thick plywood stringer.
I’m wondering if you can use a wood stain on the stringer to give a dark hardwood or red wood type effect without having any glassing issues.
I know that painting stringers is generally a no no, as the lam wont bond very well, and looks pretty average anyway.
I’m thinking a stain will absorb into the plywood and not hinder lam bonding.
I’d like to have a go at making a timber tail block. It would look good if I can match the stringer color into the woods I use.
I’m sure someone has tried this…
If so, any do’s or dont’s as far as staining products to use? or not use…
I could go out and buy a blank for the job with a fancy hardwood stringer… but if I can achieve a similar effect and save a few bucks then why not.
I believe oil based stain and resin is a no no, although I’ve never actually tried it. I make longboard skateboards sometimes and the consensus on silverfish (a longboard forum with a builders section) was usually not to use an oil based stain on wood that was to be glassed. Water based might be a different story though.
Awesome, thanks guys.
Might test a brown resin tint first and see what it looks like. That seems obvious now that you’ve said it! Probs the better choice as I can apply a run of clear along the tape edge to stop bleeding onto the foam.
If the resin looks crap I will find a water/alcohol based stain as suggested and see how the tape holds up on a test piece of off cut. probs have to apply it lightly with a decent fine tip brush. maybe tape the stringer and run a resin bead along either side will prevent bleeding. I’d imagine a stain bleed would be horrendous!
Thanks for the tips guys.
Warning! It will most likely bleed. If you use something to seal the tape edge; it will also seal the stringer. Therefore the wood will not accept the stain even.
Not too worried about the ply effect. Was just considering matching the color with the tail block. But I’ve found a few good examples of tail blocks done agaist a standard ply stringer that looks good so I might just avoid the extra fuss as I will have my work cut out for me with my first tail block anyway.
Thanks for all the advice.
Contrasting colors of stringer and tail block look good. So don’t sweat it. For a first tail block consider doing it after you lam. It will be easier to Shape to match the foam and less likely to to damage foam. You gotta be pretty damned good to make them come out right if done before Glass.
Not that good a pick but; I stop in on the local Myrtle Wood Factory in Garibaldi from time to time. He has a variety of woods. Some of the Myrtle is lighter in color. Some darker. Lots of swirls and burls. Little harder to work with than Cherry or Walnut.
I always do my tail blocks after 1st layer of glass and before the 2nd, same with fin plugs. I wouldn’t dare attempt to shape wood up against raw foam. Roger Hall does some incredible stuff this way, but I’m not in that league. Keep it simple!
Another method…Use either Golden or Liquitex acrylic paint and thin it down so it’s almost like water. Pick up a decent art brush from any craft store for about 5 bucks. Paint it on. It will stain the wood to shades of whatever color you choose. Do a few coats to darken it if you want.
Sharpie makes a set of three brown pens, for matching various furniture colors/stains. You could use those to create color and grain. Home Depot, or other chain hardware stores should have them.
EDIT: Yes, I’ve used them on stringers, and fins. Polyester resin compatible. Epoxy should be tested on scrap, to confirm compatibility.
From Wikipedia
“Wood treatment
Potassium dichromate is used to stain certain types of wood by darkening the tannins in the wood. It produces deep, rich browns that cannot be achieved with modern color dyes. It is a particularly effective treatment on mahogany.”
This is what Martin guitars uses on their mahogany necks.
Dangerous to use. I’ve used it when building banjo necks.
Always wanted to try it on balsa to get a vintage look.
I was inspired by your blocks MCDING. They say Imitation is the finest form of flattery haha.
This is how it turned out anyway, using a hardwood Red Cedar. blended in pre - glass with a 6 inch sander. Risky method on my first attempt but it worked a treat and looks great.
End result after much appreciated advice.
Used a Red Cedar hard wood. Glad I opted on a simple block for the first go instead of an elaborate blend of timbers. Less is more sometimes! Gave it to my bro in-law for his 30th… he was stoked! Light single wrap of 6oz to minimize swing weight on pivot turns, with knee patch and tail patch for strength where it counts. Its already back for a ding repair but he likes his boards light… there’s always trade offs hey.
