Does anyone have any tips on how to seal a wooden board. Right now I have a 12’ one that I have almost finshed shaping. I have tried danish oil but that doesn’t work to well. I took it out once and decided I needed to reshape it and lighten it. As it was it was over 150 pounds. I am thinking of laminating it or something. Any ideas would sure help, I don’t want to sink out there.
Does anyone have any tips on how to seal a wooden board. Right now I have > a 12’ one that I have almost finshed shaping. I have tried danish oil but > that doesn’t work to well. I took it out once and decided I needed to > reshape it and lighten it. As it was it was over 150 pounds. I am thinking > of laminating it or something. Any ideas would sure help, I don’t want to > sink out there. Do you want to keep the wood natural or do you want to put a shell on it?
Either is fine with me I mostly just want it water tight, but I still would like to see the wood through the shell. Thats where it has all its impact, I mean how often do you see a guy paddle out riding a true log?
Some wood (especially Redwood and Western Red Cedar) may contain sap that has some sort of oily properties that may make the standard polyester laminating process tricky. Using Danish Oil finish may complicate matters further. I would definitely get that stuff off of the board if you plan to laminate. I would also advise at least test laminating some scraps of wood. I’ve heard of a lacquer sealant used on oily woods before laminating but never tried it myself. Epoxy is probably the best method. Not that it hasn’t been covered here, but for wood specifics, there are a number of sources on wood canoe and wood boat building sites.
I was able to use lam resin, 249a, over cedar (home depot kiln-dried wood)… …but test it first. Look for knots - if there is sap you should opt for epoxy. Some wooden boats are sealed with Spar varnish only. i wouldn’t suggest it for a surfboard unless it is solid wood and strong enought without some fiberglass on it. Check out… http://www.vintagewoodensurfboards.com/index.html May be helpful. Eric J>>> Some wood (especially Redwood and Western Red Cedar) may contain sap that > has some sort of oily properties that may make the standard polyester > laminating process tricky. Using Danish Oil finish may complicate matters > further. I would definitely get that stuff off of the board if you plan to > laminate. I would also advise at least test laminating some scraps of > wood. I’ve heard of a lacquer sealant used on oily woods before laminating > but never tried it myself. Epoxy is probably the best method. Not that it > hasn’t been covered here, but for wood specifics, there are a number of > sources on wood canoe and wood boat building sites.
Some wood (especially Redwood and Western Red Cedar) may contain sap that > has some sort of oily properties that may make the standard polyester > laminating process tricky. Using Danish Oil finish may complicate matters > further. I would definitely get that stuff off of the board if you plan to > laminate. I would also advise at least test laminating some scraps of > wood. I’ve heard of a lacquer sealant used on oily woods before laminating > but never tried it myself. Epoxy is probably the best method. Not that it > hasn’t been covered here, but for wood specifics, there are a number of > sources on wood canoe and wood boat building sites. If this is something that you want to keep original looking and maintain the 1930’s look. Don’t put an epoxy shell on it. Do it like they did it will all the wooden boards of yesteryear; use marine spar varnish. If you want a truely durable finish then put a glass epoxy lamination over it. In either case be sure, as John said, to be very make a very complete preparation of the stick. If you’ve got oil on it strip it off. Then treat the whole thing with oxylic acid (wood bleach). when it’s completely dry sand, When you happy with the surface you are read to stain if you so choose. Then it’s just about putting on the waterproof finish you choose. The varnish will be much easier to maintain but alot more fagile of course and sunlight will make it peel but it will dent as it will flex some with the wood. If you laminate and use poly you’ll be sorry. Remember also that water migrates under the shell if broken and it will distroy a large section of the board if you don’t dry things out quickly and repair the ding completely. Good luck & Good Surfin’ Rich
Yeah I have done a report on the history of board design from early Hawaii till present. I still find it amazing that they could surf on those olo boards. That’s where this project came from; I wanted to try surfing one of the really old boards. I had it shaped and went out and tried and it was so hard to paddle, turn, and just over all hard to use. It really makes you appreciate all the technology in the boards today. I decided to reshape it and lighten it. Hopefully I will have it ready by summer.
Does anyone have any tips on how to seal a wooden board. Right now I have > a 12’ one that I have almost finshed shaping. I have tried danish oil but > that doesn’t work to well. I took it out once and decided I needed to > reshape it and lighten it. As it was it was over 150 pounds. I am thinking > of laminating it or something. Any ideas would sure help, I don’t want to > sink out there. Kevin, I
m very curious to know more about the specs of your (finless?) replica, i.e. crossectional, template, rocker, rail contours, etc. To fully understand and utilize a surfboard like that, youll have to commit to many weeks, or perhaps even months, of carrying, paddling and riding it under a variety of conditions… and muscular development will likely be the least of your gains!
There’s alot of water based polyurethanes out there that would work just fine,if the wood isn’t to oily…If it is… the best thing to use is linseed oil,like on gun stocks.Herb.
Kevin,>>> I
m very curious to know more about the specs of your (finless?) replica, > i.e. crossectional, template, rocker, rail contours, etc. To fully > understand and utilize a surfboard like that, youll have to commit to > many weeks, or perhaps even months, of carrying, paddling and riding it > under a variety of conditions… and muscular development will likely be > the least of your gains! Yeah it is going to be finless, or at least at first. After using it for a while I might decide to put a fin on. As for the rocker, I could not put much if any in. I started this board with 2" by 4" all glued together so there was not really anyway I could put rocker in it. I know this is not the best way but it would be really hard and expensive to get a piece of nice wood that big. Although I did remove around 2 1/2 inches of wood off the bottom of the nose and it tapers off about 3 feet back. As for the rails I am thinking of just using a 1 1/2" round over bit and running that on the top and bottom, then make a few adjustments with a belt sander. Now I am in the process of hollowing some of it out because it was way to heavy. As for surfing it that is going to be a problem. I would like to try it on some of the long and gentle waves like the boards were used on in Hawaii, but I am in southern NC and most waves around here a beach break, it won’t swell up like Hawaii but I am going to try. Even if it does not surf very well it will make a great board to build up paddling strength on those flat days. Plus it is a great start for me seeing as it is just the second board I have shaped. Over time I may try making a board more true to the old style but for now I need to work on finishing high school. Also I have some pictures of it in construction if any one would be interested in them.
Why not post the pictures? Sounds interesting (to me, at least). Thanks, Eric J>>> Yeah it is going to be finless, or at least at first. After using it for a > while I might decide to put a fin on. As for the rocker, I could not put > much if any in. I started this board with 2" by 4" all glued > together so there was not really anyway I could put rocker in it. I know > this is not the best way but it would be really hard and expensive to get > a piece of nice wood that big. Although I did remove around 2 1/2 inches > of wood off the bottom of the nose and it tapers off about 3 feet back. As > for the rails I am thinking of just using a 1 1/2" round over bit and > running that on the top and bottom, then make a few adjustments with a > belt sander. Now I am in the process of hollowing some of it out because > it was way to heavy. As for surfing it that is going to be a problem. I > would like to try it on some of the long and gentle waves like the boards > were used on in Hawaii, but I am in southern NC and most waves around here > a beach break, it won’t swell up like Hawaii but I am going to try. Even > if it does not surf very well it will make a great board to build up > paddling strength on those flat days. Plus it is a great start for me > seeing as it is just the second board I have shaped. Over time I may try > making a board more true to the old style but for now I need to work on > finishing high school. Also I have some pictures of it in construction if > any one would be interested in them.
I’m not sure if you are trying to seal some classic Tom Blake paddleboard or not. If so not touch it. But if you are going for a functional sealant go with epoxy. I used to help the restoration of antique wooden boats at the San Francisco Maritime Museum so all the Dophinite, sawdust, cotton caulking things I’ve done are great… for classic boats… but expoy was a secret weapon for work boat fixes on the Boston Whaler used around the pier.>>> Does anyone have any tips on how to seal a wooden board. Right now I have > a 12’ one that I have almost finshed shaping. I have tried danish oil but > that doesn’t work to well. I took it out once and decided I needed to > reshape it and lighten it. As it was it was over 150 pounds. I am thinking > of laminating it or something. Any ideas would sure help, I don’t want to > sink out there.
I’I used to help the restoration of antique wooden boats at the San Francisco Maritime Museum so all the Dophinite, sawdust, cotton caulking things I’ve done are great… for classic boats… but expoy was a secret weapon for work boat fixes on the Boston Whaler used around the pier. Go with that, not polyester resin.>>> Does anyone have any tips on how to seal a wooden board. Right now I have > a 12’ one that I have almost finshed shaping. I have tried danish oil but > that doesn’t work to well. I took it out once and decided I needed to > reshape it and lighten it. As it was it was over 150 pounds. I am thinking > of laminating it or something. Any ideas would sure help, I don’t want to > sink out there.