double overhead Sat thru next weekend due to a big new zealand monsta…
should have some good man on the street reports regarding all my new stuff for griff and solo just gonna be hard to decide what club to use for each occasion.
And if ya lucky chip we might even get some video or pics of some secret spots firing 5 minutes from my door.
for all the townie swayheads if it starts to close out except for the outer reefs(where Honolulu will be) which it’s expected to do, you are more than welcome to head out west and join us. We usually need something in the 6-10’ town range before we start getting good and SharkCountry and Johns will be heaven when everywhere else will be closing. Haubush will give up before Waikiki and Ala Moana will though. It’ll be packed though with all the pros though… Dustin C, Kaipo J, Joel C, Kekoa B.
Firing here also from Honolua Bay down the west side to Dumps here on Maui. Ding repair will be the business to be in for a while, as the breaks are partying with everyone who can find a board. Will be on Oahu Sunday and Monday. Enjoy the ride!
Waves are already coming in! Had a killer 4 hour surf this morning from Three’s to Fours to Kaisers to In-betweens… Caught so many fun waves! At In-betweens I went after a lot of those little closeout rights nobody wants that re-formed on the inside of Kaisers and rode past the poles going left, then right, then left… Looong rides! Super fun! Saw Mokulele out on his SUP… What a beautiful morning it was! Oneula, Woohoo for 9 days is right!!! Its only gonna get better till our bodies can’t take no more!!!
From Pat Caldwells report and this isn’t even including the swell we have now and the Monday ,Tues, Wed biggy already on its way! WOOOHOOOOO!!!
Into the long range, a massive low pressure system, with a minimum of 936 mb at the deepest point on Thursday, filled the southern ocean south of 40s all this week. A 1000 by 1500°NM fetch length and width set up with background 30 knot winds, yet with pulses of 50 knots moving northward in captured fetches setting up in the 185-195 degree band Wednesday and again today, starting near Antarctica and pushing to about 45°S or about 4000 nm from Hawaii. This should lead to overlapping high episodes next week with peaks Thursday night and Saturday morning. As with Monday and Tuesday, either of these has the ingredients for borderline extra-large surf for the biggest sets at the highest locations.
So I was expecting to surf the usual waist to head high weak town stuff this summer so I made this really killer 19 3/4 x 2 3/8 6’5" Flyer like summer board thats been sitting there all summer not even waxed up yet…and I still cant use it cause its tooooo big…As the oh so wise Homer Simpson would say…DOH!!
double overhead Sat thru next weekend due to a big new zealand monsta…
should have some good man on the street reports regarding all my new stuff for griff and solo just gonna be hard to decide what club to use for each occasion.
And if ya lucky chip we might even get some video or pics of some secret spots firing 5 minutes from my door.
for all the townie swayheads if it starts to close out except for the outer reefs(where Honolulu will be) which it’s expected to do, you are more than welcome to head out west and join us. We usually need something in the 6-10’ town range before we start getting good and SharkCountry and Johns will be heaven when everywhere else will be closing. Haubush will give up before Waikiki and Ala Moana will though. It’ll be packed though with all the pros though… Dustin C, Kaipo J, Joel C, Kekoa B.
Punis been asking me to come down and surf “da dirty watah” in Ewa…might have to have a look see…
i heard it was head high and above in town(panics) already last night.
But come monday/tuesday she should be extra large but not like that big new zealand we got awhile back but it’s been a pretty much a dry summer. I hope Daniel doesn’t ruin everything…
I hope to surf hard till I pop my knee then I can go in and get it MRI’d and cut up to fix it like I did last July and not feel so guilty about going back on crutches for awhile… I know my orthopedic surgeon’s gonna kick my butt for it though. Just hope the knee holds up with all the braces and tape so I can have some fun testing my new Griff 5 fin, a Griff twin, 2 home made gemini’s and solo’s Horan replica.
It should be an epic way to cap off a slow summer.
Anybody wanna show up at Haubush Sun/Mon I’ll take you to Shark Country if it’s happening…
Just let me know…
Maybe I’ll see Foamdust out there again
I’m sure CMP’s looking at towing in with friends in front of his house or off by the Reef Runway…
Next Thurs-Fri should be best as the swell should back off a bit and everyone is going to be maxed out tired already…
Too bad UH hasn’t started yet…
I’d save it up till then for the crowds to thin out…
Richard Mc
did you relocate to Kihei from TX?
Malaaea should be cranking if the winds and rain from Daniel let up
Maybe… I usually paddle out at the Kaisers channel and surf up as far as Publics then work my way back to Kaisers and In-betweens. I will be there mornings from all next week… Today and tomorrow we’re hitting up closer to home spots that I saw waves last night… WooHoo!!!
From yesterday at In-betweens… Riding a 9’3 super wide nose and tail wood veneer prototype SUP board. Very fun!
It’s scary thinking about how much hype and forecasting goes into swells now-a-days. The low pressure system that is sending waves up past Christmas buoy was about as low as it gets, pointed in our direction for 4 solid days.
That is probably the #1 coolest thing about an SUP board. You can go for miles… You don’t have to stay at one spot. You can still have fun on junky little waves if needed… Especially in Town where it can get crowded. Get a few waves and move on. Sometimes you’ll hook into a spot where no one is there and just get into the wave catching machine mode till people show up. When they do, move on again… Sooooo fun!
The last few days I surfed this closeout that nobody wants to ride because there’s the main break right there. 40 guys to my right and 20 to my left and where I’m at I’m all alone just 30 yards from both piles of people. This closeout section peels off for 2-3 decent turns into an oncoming left where you can blast it. Then it rolls whitewater into a series of reforms going left for ahwhile, then right, then left etc but by then its only around knee to waist high… If you ride it all the way it dumps you off into the main channel. Its a good 150+ yard ride everytime. If I rode my shortboard or even my regular longboard, I’d never milk the wave that far just because the paddle back is crazy far around the main break. On the SUP board you can go in circles for hours connecting the sections! I don’t always catch the best waves of the day but I’m pretty certain I’m getting the most long ones! Then, after a lot of set waves come thru and it thins out the pack I mosey on out and get a set wave at the peak which is in the picture above… Hahaha! Very very fun!
I was amazed at the big circles you were making yesterday at Kaiser’s. The first time I watched you ride one in I thought you had gone home!.
While driving to work this morning I was stopped at one of the traffic light on Wilikina Drive. A guy next to me in a Toyota pickup had a blue Munoz 12 footer and a wood SUP paddle strapped on the pipe rack. He said he was going to the North Shore to SUP. Anyone recognize this description? Is he one of the Sway’s regulars? (I didn’t get his name). I think it’s kind of cool that the SUP community is still relatively small and we can recognize people by their boards or paddles.
Except for certain places there was no evidence of any major tahiti swell
big is when I can watch them from my office towing in at the entrance to honolulu harbor or off sand island.
Barely saw a wave break way way outside sand island this swell.
Town got good for a while(max crowds though) until the onshore winds hit Monday/Tuesday
We got nothing to speak of while other places like Maile and White Plains were going off.
I heard 5-ohs was epic on saturday with only a couple guys wanting to make the 1/2 mile paddle out there.
sorry no pics as the waves on my side (southwest) weren’t cooperating
town was a zoo from last Thursday on as everyone was frothing for the swell
the only ones having problems with the surf were the tourists.
The American Bar Association is in town with their annual convention so every spot in town will be packed with lawyers looking to get some talk about an aggro lineup… Too bad they were so freaked about injury liability they wouldn’t even sponser their own contest at queens during the convention. They sure missed out big time in getting that spot all to themselves for a contest during a swell.
We’ll see what happens later this month and September…
We usually get a back to school/end of summer big south swell.
I don’t think my knee is going to hold up much longer so pics for sure if I get stuck shorebound.
I got one of the worst beatings I’ve had in ages from this swell, it was a beautifully humbling surf. It’s amazing to see the lows that give us our winter swells also supply swell to Hawaii, Mexico, California and points beyond. I remember checking the offshore bouys and seeing it read 26-32 feet-scary to imagine what it’s like in the heart of the storm!
Figures. I’m on da Mainland doing business and Maui “Goes off”. Nine days means it broke on the South Shore for two. I’m sure it was more than most could handle at the “Cove”. I surfed relativly uncrowed and hassle free waves at 38th in SC on Sunday. It was fun. Moving on to Oregon in a week or so. Plenty of foam and lots of variety coming back with me in a 20-footer in sept. Hope to get waves at Newport(Oregon) in a week or two. HD McDing
More than most could handle was right. Great news on bringing back foam, as everyone here be in need and be in envy of man wit da foam. Enjoy the ride out there!
