We had a four hour session at a hollow beachbreak here this morning ( just “sandgroper” and I out , and later, two others further down the beach , about two hours into our surf…they only stayed about an hour , though ??)
I rode the trusty bushfire fish , with the fabric inlay side fins , and polycarbonate thruster back fin .
I also rode sandgroper’s 6’8 wafer thruster , while he rode my fish .
Glassy , head high sets …
ah…
what spring is all about , to me .
Not bad for a warm , sunny , sunday morning , in a city of 1 million people , I reckon !
even darker than yours , Mr.Greek God … gadzooks , man !!
damn, you got competition for the chicky baaabes now , Ant ! (actually , you’re okay …he is married with three kids , so he won’t be competiting for your young nubile …er…“prizes” . )
Okay , now the REAL story …
…because "sand[y] groper’ was formerly known as ‘zap’ , the three-post-then-you’re- banned guy [!], I silhouetted him .
reason no.2 …in case his wife ‘shoulder surfs’ him at the computer , I thought it might be best / prudent that she didn’t know he was lurking / surfing at ‘nudey tubes’ for four hours [being that she [his wife] is a churchy girl , and all]
We have been lucky here on the east coast of north america for a few weeks too.
Have had several tropical storms and hurricanes working out in the Atlantic sending us swell.
TS Ernesto a couple of weeks ago in the US (New Hampshire & Maine).
Hurricane Helene this past weekend in the US(New Hampshire). (unkown rider, on unnamed point)
My friend was using this quad fish that I made him a week ago down in Nova Scotia Canada this weekend. He was riding a semi-secret point break with a friend, some Grom and 8 seals. 6’+ clean waves all to themselves. His comment on the board was that ‘it was made for that wave’, most of us here would agree.
I have been using the Big Tri fin that I made a month or so ago.
Catching the biggest waves I have yet ridden; getting worked over by lots, but also getting some amazing rides.
After a flat summer, all of this had added up to this being STOKED!
Nice waves and that’s a nice litle fish- hopefully you’ll get a few more days like that before it gets too freezing-ass cold! I need to take a morning off work and get in the water.
Whats going on with the live firing? Those waves look sick! about how big are they? Chest high? Head High? Way overhead? I’m so used to East Coast US surf that I have no concept of bigger than stomach to chest high on a daily basis.
