I got this idea from another thread.
This year we accidentally bought a new stand for our Christmas tree. We mistakenly though that we didn’t have one already in the attic. Now we have two. I’m going to guess that we will make the same mistake next year, so I swiped them both now for use as shaping rack stands.
One question before I pour the cement into the base: What height should it be, from the floor to the highest point, for minimum back strain? I am six feet tall.
While I can’t give you a number for ‘comfortable working height’ , as I think it varies more by where your arms hang to than total body height as it were, I might make one small suggestion; rather than using cement/concrete, next time you’re at the beach snag a couple buckets of sand. And cut a coupla 45° flats on the uprights of the stand for two of the screw-clamps. At least at first.
Then, you have plenty weight in the base that you can remove or change and your uprights ( and overall height) can be played with a little, and you can get the height smack on perfect for you.
If you’re worried about the very bottom of the upright moving around on you ( not being bedded in concrete) then temporarily send a spike through from the bottom of said xmas tree base. You can always remove it later.
Hope that’s of use
doc…
comfortable working height
includes the adverage thickness of boards to be shaped.
the sling for on edge shaping of rails
is diectly relative to the
WIDTH of the boards ou plan to shape.
surfboard shaping as in 18’’ wide
is a far cry from the standup paddle board width of 30’’
that is a 12 ‘’ diffrence in work height!
short board at 2 1/4’’
and stand up at 5’’
well i believe you get my drift
Bolt together is better than nail together
cause ya’ll kin change 'er up
after you determine your comfort zone…
Takeyama’s shaping rack aint good
for the 6’6’’ tall shaping giant
the right height
is where ya don’t
tire out too quick.
so ya can rough six in a row.
one for each kid on your block.
…ambrose…
…
One question before I pour the cement into the base: What height should it be, from the floor to the highest point, for minimum back strain? I am six feet tall.
I was very happy with the height of an ironing board + 3".
I’m 171 cm tall so your height 6’ = 182.88 cm
so a suggestion is:
183 / 171 x ht_ironing_board + 3"
Like a lot of other things, rack height is subject to personal preference. And it’s not a direct
relationship to user height. Somewhere between 40’‘-45’’ is an approximate range. I’m within
an inch of your height, and I like mine about 42’'. But I remember that Greg Loehr and I compared
this one time and found we both liked the same height but he’s about three inches taller.
As Ambrose said, getting the yoke right so that the blank ‘‘hangs’’ correctly is also very important.
I use a B&D workbench a lot, so I made a set of racks for shaping and glassing that I clamp into the work bench. I have a small amount of tilt adjustment from the bench.
http://theshaperstree.com/shaping-rack/index.asp
alot of these shapers are standing next to their shaping
racks, look at the body geometry and go figure.
Some thoughts you may consider:
I cant understand why your using those plastic christmas tree stands
when 2 buckets and some quick setting concrete are at or under $15-20
and come with a handy carrying handle. You want to anchor those stands
down to the floor or similarly by ‘concrete in a bucket’.
If you are using concrete in that stand, set some protrusions
from the bottom post like nails or attached pieces of wood to help it anchor into the concrete
better, else the post will eventually jar loose from the concrete. Maybe it depends on the type of concrete used,
but I dont think the depth of those tree stands will accomodate a deep enough layer of concrete
for sturdy and lasting use. Perhaps or a stronger word, …that amt. of concrete may not anchor the stand down
sufficiently.
Thanks for the advice everyone. Seeing the images with all of the shapers standing next to their own racks was helpful. I ended up going with a height of 40 inches before taping on the foam. I used screws to hold everything together, so it will be possible to make modifications in the future.
The stands are actually quite stable. I sanded a board today out in my driveway, and it worked out nicely. I thought about pouring cement into a Homer bucket from HD, but decided to go ahead with the tree stands since they need to be portable.
Here are some photos that I took today.
If you take the top portion of the shaping rack that Shark Country posted pics. of minus the Black and Decker “Workmate” and attach it to a “Mule” sawhorse purchsed from Home Depot. You will have a very stable and portable shaping rack. I have one that I made that I use for ding repair. I used drywall srews to attach a 2"x12" to the “mule” and then attach uprights and ply bracing at each end. The cant of the sawhorse legs makes for a stable base. No movement. I originally used these horses in a glass shop I had set up in Calif. Easy to reconfigure the shop for more boards or pick them up and move them for ripipng up the paper on the floor. The type of rack you are using (even the 5 gallon bucket type) always moves and is unstable for serious shaping. Good rule of thumb for the height of the shaping rack is that an unshaped blank on your rack should be at about “belly button” height.
THANK YOU BABELFISH !!
just so we can see what great work these people are doing ,
here is the 'jingrish' version
bwahahaha
"
really ? that is english ?
.....well, that's sure news to me ! :)
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fuck off you bunch of spammers