Yater or Walden - If you own one please help

I’m a california surfer, who spends most of my time surfing breaks in the socal area (HB). I’ve been riding a 9’ 0" surfboard for a number of years. I dont buy boards very often in fact I own only two, but I am looking for that board that is going to allow me to progress to the next level (faster more responsive). The 9-0 I have now has a lot of rocker and is narrow in the tail, so its fun, but given that its older 10 years old, it’s also heavy. It was a great board to learn on but too me it’s always been a little more difficult to get started paddling into waves because of the rocker and weight, but maybe thats more mental (I’m 5-7 and 175).   I was thinking of moving to a high performance board and have been looking at the walden superwide magic (maybe go shorter like an 8"-0) or a Yater high perf.

I’m not a nose rider but would like to learn, I mostly like to work the wave and ride down the line, no big cutbacks or tricks. just looking for a good all aorund light high performance longboard that would fit well with the socal type of breaks. Any advice from anyone who owns or has tried the Walden or Yater on their experiences and thoughts?

I would definitely appreciate any feedback.

R

 

I have had 1 Yater and 6 Waldens.

IMHO overall:

Yater boards tends to have more of the “classic” feel to them, though they can perform very well.

Walden boards (especially the Magic series) are more performance oriented, but still nose ride well. I’ve had my 9’6" Magic Models (4 of them) out from knee high to TOH with good results. My only caveat would be that the GSI Epoxy boards are considerably more corky.

The shorter Superwide & CD series are very much more high performance oriented.

 

I’d be very happy with either for SoCal waves. Enjoy!

IMHO-----------There is no comparison between a Yater (Rennie or Lauren)  and a Walden, no matter how "magic" they say it is.  Both Yaters have progressive designs that will do anything and then some a Walden will do.  Haven't been in the Beach House in Santa Barbara in a long time,but you should check it out.  Usually a rack full of Yaters of all types.

And there is the beauty of surfing - two different boards, two different opinions.

I probably like the Walden as much as I do because I’ve ridden them for 20 years, where I have had limited experience with Yater.

 

Your best bet is to get one of each in the water adn decide for yourself.

get a walden magic…go shorter.

I took my rebuilt Walden Magic 9'6" out today in some 3-6' point break surf, first time out (donated by lockedin to my rebuild laboratory - thanks!), wow was I impressed.  I had never ridden a board that big, and was wishing I had my 7'6" bonzer.  Until I caught a few.  Easy paddling, late drops and fast sections no problemo! 

The board bailed me out of situations I didn't think I'd make! I'm no ripper, as I've said many times, but I had great fun on this board in some tail-end-of-the-swell waves, and loved it! Can't report on cutbacks, because it was basically down the line surfing today, but so far so good.

Board is a 9'6" GSI Walden Magic longboard - epoxy / composite veneer over cheap foam no stringer probably molded not shaped, with vac bagged veneer. Single concave in front to double concave with v in the tail, bevelled "chine rail" all the way around, single fin with sidebites.

It was broken in two, and repaired with wood. I definitely added some weight with my wood and re-glassing the center. Board now weighs 20 lbs, don't know what it weighed to begin with.

But man, in waves with a bit of punch it definitely outsurfs my 9' rockin' fig.  Don't know about Yater boards because I've never ridden one, but McDing don't sell this board short until you try it!  Let me know if you want to borrow it!  And lockedin, same to you too.  I put a cutaway center fin with gl sidebites like you said.  Was hoping we could get together this a.m., but hopefully soon.

I'll post some pics of the bottom when I get home (I'm on my mom's computer).

Thanks everyone - I really appreciate the feedback. It seems both boards have a lot to offer and either way, I would be making a good choice. I plan to visit both shops and go from there. 

Roman

I have ridden boards from each label but each label has so many model offerings it would be foolish to compare by brand alone. 

While Yater does have the time tested classic designs, I've also seen EPS/Epoxy quad longboards and other HP models.

You owe it to yourself to take a ride up to Ventura/SB area and check them both out.  Like McDing says, the Beach House usually has a good sampling of Yaters.  Walden has a retail shop in Ventura.  Call ahead and see what they have in stock.

I should think that you could find comparable models of either brand that with a fin tweak or two would do you fine.

Excuse Huckleberry's excitement over his Walden.  He's just an old fart who has experienced the joy of longboarding for his first time.  HAHA - I told you Huck!

About an hour down the coast from you is Stewart They make some very impressive longboards. Now further down the coast are two excellent shapers Bob Sakota former head shaper for Donald Takayama and Hank Byzak of pure Fun surfboards. Both will work with you to get you the type and style board that would suit you. Of course in and around  around Huntington Beach There Is a shaper on any given street. Why buy a mass produced chinese board when for the same or maybe even less money you can get a real custom board.

I would just like to add my opinion.  Back in the day I owned several Waldens.  They are pretty unique, cool surfboards.  But as I got older and spent a few years on them, I got sick of how bouncy they are.  The rail all the way nose to tail has a hard chine.  A hard edge is great on a surfboard, because it helps it turn, but when it goes all the way forward like that, the board bounces on  every little ripple.  It really takes away from the glide.

 

So goin from a shortboard to a longboard, it will feel fine.  But if you are comfortable and familiar with long board surfing, it feels a bit chattery.

 

But in the end, who cares!

Buy usa made.  Walden has a lot of chinaboards.  Yater might too, I don't know.

They've softened that chine rail now - didn't notice any bounciness in comparison with my other longboard (9'0" Rockin' Fig by Rick Fignetti).  But I've only had it out this one time, for about 3 hrs.  It is made in Taiwan.  The guy I got it from ordered it without knowing that (none of his other Waldens were), and was disappointed to see that when it arrived, but he loves Walden's magic shape longboards. 

[quote="$1"]

Excuse Huck's excitement over his Walden.  He's just an old fart who has experienced the joy of longboarding for his first time.  HAHA - I told you Huck!

[/quote]

...you wouldn't be one of those "I told ya so" guys now, would you?

get a pearson arrow josh m model,

or an imagine surfboards performance

just my two cents

bevelled "chine rail" all the way around, single fin with sidebites.

Might be asking a bit much, but what do you think the difference is between "standard" rails, and the full length bevels??


not to be a pain in the ass, and with much respect to all of you, especiall you huckleberry, as a wood surfboard maker myself I totally love your boards.

 

But if you go into waldens shop, there is a bunch of historical stuff in there.  There is actually a big poster with steven on the nose and it talks about his boards are different from other boards due to that chine all the way from nose to tail.  It's a fundamental walden design, and it is still in all his boards. 

 

beerfan, the idea behind having a hard edge/chine thing all the way up front is to keep the board unattached from the water as much as possible.  edges release, so in the tail, if you want drive through your turns, the edge helps push you through them.  In teh front fo the board, the bevel makes it so if you wanted to hit the lip (attempt to, it's a longboard you know) or do some other trick the board moves around super easily.


THe problem is, on a longboard, a hint of stability is needed.  If you have a fast section and need move forward, it will be more difficult to move forward and harder to stay there once you have arrived because the board is bouncing and planing.  It's essentially a minor detail.  AFter all, people can ride perfectly flat rockerles pieces of wood.  But in the end, that's the difference between a chine rail and a softer rail.  A softer rail forward of the tail is more functional in my opinion.  Turning is done off the tail, and down the line speed and trim on a big board is done from center forward.  The latter likes a softer rail.

 

I am obsessed with rails. Sorry.

-Bobby

 

L.Yater on his own equipment, looking for the callbox

 

JP Garcia on a Lauran Spoon trimming the point.


Thanks mate, much clearer now thankyou.

Huck did such a great job on that repair! And really the extra weight is probably a plus - I thought that the epoxy was a bit light and corky, the older (heavier) PU boards I have feel smoother.