Aging as an adjustment. You adjust your diet to keep the extra pounds off. Go a little longer, thicker or longer with your board. I’ve adjusted my expectations as to the size and number of waves I catch. The only thing the same for me is the stoke. Still got it. Mike
Whenever I feel the aches and pains of my 57 years, 45 of those being a surfer, I look up to my friends, the 3 of 4 surviving members of the Palos Verdes Surfing Club, all in their 90’s: Tulie Clark, Fenton Scholes, and Rich (Moe) Minie. The fourth being lensman Leroy Grannis, who is now in an assisted living home along with his wife.
These amazing gents, all slowed down by advanced age, surfed well into their 80’s. Moe still boogie boards on yearly trips to Waikiki. They talk surf with the enthusiasm of a teenager. Their stories of uncrowded waves ridden on 12’ hardwood/balsa boards are amazing.
What great inspiration for me to keep the stoke.
See their picture on pgs 62-63 of “Surfer’s Journal” Vol.16 #5
Rennie’s 75-ish and going strong
I really did’nt intend to come across as a philosophising old fart. I’m actually only 36.
The 10 reasons thing is sort of my cross between the old …“count your blessings…” cliche (which, as an atheist, I have my own conflict with…) and one of the Dalai Lama’s basic tenets of Buddhism.
Another phrase I like to embrace is " Go ahead, tell your stories, they’re better than mine…"
Thats it…the moment you think you’ve done more, or seen more, or handled heavier shit, and then start telling everyone, is the moment you close doors.
BTW Epac- Thats a spectacular coastline in the background of your post-pic…Where?
I am only 37 and have had a lot of lets say problems which at times has made me feel a lot older.
I grew up playing football, countless injuries including broken collar bones on five occations.
But the most life changing experience for me was being diagnosed with type 1 diabeties 10 years ago.
In hospital for a week not knowing the future.
I thought that my life was going to take a down hill ride from then on until I realised that you are “only as old as you feel”
and there are a lot of people worse off that me.
My treatment, other than daily insulin injections, is no different to the way anyone should live a normal healthy life.
Eat well (balanced) sleep well, exercise regularly and enjoy life.
My exercises are not slogging it out in the gym, although I will do it occationally, they are doing things that I enjoy.
Walking the dogs, mountain bike riding numerous other outdoor activities such as fishing, prawning, I even done motorcross for a while, but thats an expensive hobbie and of course my favourite, surfing and shaping.
I look forward to getting up in the morning, checking the surf, going for a surf if its on or enjoying some other activity if its not.
Something about checking the surf in the morning. You seem to have more energy.
Looking at building a SUP for another activity to enjoy.
I actually dont feel as old as I did ten years ago and are probably a lot healthyer as well.
Maybe a bit bigger and slower but my wife still insists I am only 15.
As mention earlier, Its the “mental” thing.
Thing young and healthy, be young and healthy
Will be surfing till I die which will hopfully be a looong way away.
is that from the batch of step-decks that he just dropped off at CB’s? Those things are absolute beauties!
[i]hip replacements, back problems, Jeeze sometimes knowing the future suck
look to the ancients for wisdom look towards the future to apply it to new scenarios.
[/i] I have lots of aches and pains. Many self induced. I have lots of things to deal with…some self induced others un expected… I’ve seen healthy people get cancer and I’ve seen un healthy people live to be very old… Not 50 yet…every day I surf is a good day. I surfed today… Today was a very good day! Chipfish taught me to “Share The Stoke”…Fixing a board for a friend right now… …Stoked…
Yea… the worst thing about getting old is that your parts wear out… back, shoulders, hips… Science needs to catch up!
I’ve got two very distinct personalities… there’s the really young immature 12 year old me… then there’s the super mature grown up 16 year old me.
At least I’ve never spent the night in a hospital, been operated on (other than stitches), or broken bones… I don’t even have cavities yet. All stuff to look forward to.
Surfing is as fun as ever
I’m not that old yet but thats basicaly how I feel, still got all my own teath too. Any time I feel old (see old fart syndrom thread) I like to look at this web site. I know its been posted before, but I’m sure it will cheer up anyone else whos feeling there age.