your age, your board

Let’s see -

I’ll be 50 this summer, 5’10" and I vary between 165 and 185, depending on what work I’m doing - I tend to bulk up if I’ve been doing a lot of heavy lifting for a few months. I avoid ‘exercise’ . Rowing ( with a plain rowboat or sliding seat single shell ) is fun, not exercise, and a nice little demonstration to myself that my coordination hasn’t gone yet. But you couldn’t get me inside a gym unless it was at gunpoint.

So many of my contemporaries get off the couch, ride the lawnmower around and then get in their Silly Useless Vehicles to drive to the gym. And guys decades younger. Amazing that they can’t connect the dots.

My collar’s still blue and I dislike driving cars enough that riding the bike to work is an unalloyed pleasure, even in the rain. Or turning over the garden with a garden spade and spading fork rather than paying somebody to roto-till it. Or splitting firewood, or working with heavy timber. Work rather than exercise, getting paid for it ( or not shelling out to have it done) rather than paying somebody else so I can sweat.

As was mentioned before, old injuries do return to haunt you. I had a set of rotator cuffs that had me half crippled a few years ago ( and eating aspirins like they were salted peanuts ) to the point where I wondered if I was gonna have to start working in an office. Cured 'em by lifting weights, keeping ice packs nearby and cussing a lot. The amusing part was that by favoring one shoulder I put enough strain on the other one to mess that up. Then again, waking up in the morning hurting is something you can get used to as a sign you’re still alive, especially as I seem to see so many contemporaries names in the obituary column. Also makes a handy barometer that you can take everywhere you go.

I eat anything set before me, but I’ve learned to trust what my appetites are. If I need some more vitamins and such I tend to have cravings for salads and veg and fresh fruit. When I need energy, it’s time to pick up the bread and noodle making schedule. I don’t seem to be hungry as much as I was, in fact I have to cook pretty well to want to eat it.

Boards… I go around my trio of 5’4" Romanoskys, tri, quad and ‘guest board’ . Which are actually a little bigger and floatier than I’d like: I may have to make some flexy kneeboards this summer, for the fall swells. I like the pocket and points further back on days with some punch to 'em. Otherwise, it’s a good day to go clamming or just take a book to the beach, not a board.

Started on a longboard, hated it then and at the very least dislike 'em still. When I can’t do what I do now, it’ll be time to hang up the fins and go to sailboats full time. Then again, there’s kneelos in their sixties that are still pretty impressive.

As the saying goes, Age and Treachery will always defeat Youth and Skill.

doc…

Obviously your experiences are different than mine. My experience is that more flotation equals easier paddling.

The first eps/epoxy I made (about 10 months ago) was similar in thickness to PU…the shaper who sold me the blank warned me about the added bouyancy and as an engineer, naturally I doubted him. Well, the board was 2.4 inches thick (my PUs are typically 2.6) and the thing was a freaking cork…so much so that I peeled the deck completely off and mowed more foam off as my challenging rework project of the year. The second board I made is only 2.3 inches thick and floats like my longer 2.6 PU’s.

The first thing I do when I finish a board is guage bouyancy…in saltwater, I sit on the board while its horizontal under the water…if the water line is near my belly button its very/too bouyant…if its near the bottom of my rib cage its borderline bouyant for me.

Where I live and surf, with heavy rips and no paddling channels its all about fitness and paddling so its very important…its constant paddling…when you estimate the number of strokes per hour it adds up quick and every little bit helps. In March, I surfed 5.5 hours…not bad for a 40 year old on a shortboard. When the waves are firing, the last thing Im going to do is ride a longboard…

and I haven’t even discussed the superior performance/durability characteristics of eps/epoxy…but that’s another discussion…I do know that 5 years from now more guys (if not most) will be riding eps/epoxy…thankfully I’ve already made the switch…thanks GL.

I agree, more buoyant is easier to paddle( for me ). I like them corky. I do the same test as meecrafty. I sit on the board. It has to pass the bellybutton test. I like em right at the bellybutton. I don’t worry much about board weight as long as it passes the bellybutton test. I glass em heavy because I prefer strong over light. A light board that falls apart after a few months is a piece of shit and a waste of resources. My weight does matter. I notice a difference of 3-4 pounds when I surf. I’m a bit slower on the take off. It might be psychological. Who knows? I have very little experience with epoxy/styro boards. Not enough to comment. Mike

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But, I think people often go back to what they had there best time on

One of many interesting and well thought out points in this discussion. Surfboards can be the cheapest of Time Machines. Before anyone rashly calls this type of move “regression” I would point out but one simple example, that of contemporary Hawaiians revisiting wooden boards and ancient shapes. Touch the magic…

The other discussions about “staying in shape” are also spot on. Since this is Swaylock’s and not one of the cheesier boards, I would offer some of my own observations on this to further flesh out what others have put forth. One is that as years pass, Other Things Happen. Injury, obligations…things which can’t simply be judged as lack of character/motivation. While you certainly can plan on staying in shape to stay on short boards, there is no certainity of being able to do so. You don’t want to throw all your eggs in that one basket. Good health and physical fitness should be everyone’s goal as it makes any activity easier and more enjoyable, but if you get your leg smashed in a work accident you shouldn’t take it as a sign of feeble stoke.

Life obligations are another thing which can severely impinge on your water time. Sometimes I think that’s the difference between an adult and a child - the adults know the clock is ticking and make choices accordingly. You’ll get more waves if you think only of yourself, but in the end if you follow that course and have any conscience or cognitive ability you may wind up with severe regret. Plan on living a full life. If you haven’t had photos of yourself published in all the surf magazines by the time you turn 21, you realisitically will never be world champ. Know why you surf.

I guess this is kind of like planning for retirement (somebody explain that for me sometime)…I would suppose that keeping an open mind about board designs as you age is a key thing. For all we know there will be something completely different available…

Personally, age 48 with a birthday cake so close I can almost taste it, it’s an 8’3" 2 plus 1 which can ride as a single (bought from a shop where the owner not 4 years ago told me an 8’7" was a “girl’s board”, speaking of change), a 7’10" hybrid which I apparently am saving for the tropics, a mat, and some paipos. 8’7" is the longest board I’ve ever owned; I can’t get interested in things over 9’, and that’s probably related to “what I had my best time on”. Honestly I hardly standup surf at all anymore, as the variety of prone surfcraft allow me the total and slowly vanishing luxury of finding out of the way places. If I had to guess my future 20 years down the road I would think it’s bodysurfing exclusively.

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A light board that falls apart after a few months is a piece of shit and a waste of resources.

True…however, a well made eps/epoxy is light and wont fall apart (actually lots more durable) and will blow you away in performance. Unless youre a cruiser. As politicians say “thanks for your support”…:slight_smile: I think eps/epoxy is IDEAL for the older shortboarder who wants to improve or maintain his performance levels AND make paddling easier. When I made the switch I felt 10 years younger, particularly when riding waves. EPS would also greatly benefit competition longboarders. The bennies would be minimized for younger/lightweight shortboarders as their boards are already ultralight. BTW, Greg L recommends a 1/8" thickness adjustment when going from PU to EPS…my experience is more like 1/4"

I’ll be 56 in July. Just returned from two weeks in Hawaii where I surfed every morning at 6:30am. I began surfing in the mid 60s then quit after college and moved to Coloraco in 1970 where I traded mountain climbing for waves. I didn’t see a surfboard for 30+ years. I’ve never been on a shortboard, as that whole era came after my time.

At age 51 I reached the summit of a 20,000+ peak near Mt Everest in Nepal and upon return from that six week expedition realized I no longer had the “quest” attitude for sleeping out in -30 degree blizzards and escaping avalanches in pursuit of high places where oxygen is scarce.

Maybe that experience was kind of like playing in the super bowl and realizing it won’t get any better. A little light went off that said go back to the ocean so I left my home in Colorado. While on a vacation, my wife talked me into renting a surfboard. I paddled out turned around and raised, and I’ve been back in the water since (3 years).

I’m 6’, 172 pounds and in pretty good shape, but contrary to what seems to be a “better the shape the shorter the board” attitude in this thread, the more I surf the more I have migrated to longer boards - from a 9’ board three years ago, to a 10’ board today. I came into this surfing world a longboarder and I’ll go out that way. At the risk of igniting some tempers from you young guys, I’ll say that surfboards 9’ and over are just that - “surfboards”. In my opinion there’s no such thing as a longboard, just surfboards and those new things called “shortboards”.

Seriously though, if you’re in the water and you’re enjoying it, and respectful to everyone, and share in the soul of the sport, I say ride anything that gives you a smile. Aloha and enjoy the ride!

Im 48 and have just spent seven years sailing round the world during that trip I surfed mainly a 6’ epoxy kevlar quad in any thing from knee high to double overhead

I had a7’6" thruster with me but hardly used it

Now we have moved ashore in NZ (still have the boat to escape on) and ride a west coast beach break five mins from the house

I still have the kevlar board but now spend more time on boards around 6’4" and a that thicker (slightly easer to paddle ) any bigger is a pain to duck dive

I build a new board every couple of months as its fun just to build new things

After surfing reef breaks most of my life I still have a hard time coping with all this duck diving stuff at beach breaks

The boards I now build have my own fin box system so that I can change from thruster to quad or five fin in a couple of mins (love the looseness of the quads)

Ive just finished a monster mal 10’6" x 3 1/4" for the kids and me to play on on tiny days and when I want to play old style nose riding

To stay fit i try to get out in the water 2 to 4 times a week whatever the conditions

A crap surf is still better that TV and also do a little yoga

These days i think i enjoy surfing more that ever as there is nothing to prove just the joy of still enjoying the water the waves and life

Mike

At 45 yrs and 165 lbs…5’7" Finding the perfect shortboard for our surf is tedious at best. Current board 6’4 x 19 1/2 x 2.625 Thruster. Going smaller as my stamina improves. Havn’t been hittin full on until this past year. 10 years of family raisin takes away from your water time. On the racks…6’3" x 19 x 2.5 single/double squash.

Krokus

age - 23. 6’0 160lbs

favorite board - 5’11 x 18-3/4 2-1/8 thick

ride shortboards from 5’9 - 6’2

bigger ‘semi-gun’ boards for bigger surf are 6’4 - 6’8

i ride longboards from 8’0 - 9’6

single fin eggs - 6ft and 7ft

single fin Lopez Bolt style 6’6

i tried to ride a mat while i was down at playa hermosa in Costa Rica last week - i couldnt get out…

this site has pics of some of the boards i have made and also a few shots surfing too

http://groups.msn.com/thegrasshoppersurfboard/shoebox.msnw?albumlist=2

Richard Prause

Being 42 years old, I prefer high-performance shortboards. I am fortunate enough to live in a very consistent surf area. Today I rode a 6’0’ x 18-1/4" x 2-3/16" squash, a 6’1" the day before, that one is 18" wide and 2-1/8" thick. I’m 5’10", 165 lbs and most of what I ride hovers around this size. I have two 8’6" x 21" x 3" ultra light “giant surfboards” that are fun when it is weak or flat. I also have guns from 6’5’, 6’9" etc. up to 8’2" and a 9’3" charger but I need to travel to extract their potential.

Bitchin thread to delve the demographic age denominator… the length numerator as reported is landing in the parallel mass consumptive fashion of period boards…i.e. 72 everybody who was anybody rode a 7’3-7’6…64 everybody had a 9’10…66 everybodys noserider was 10’+…I started in and I ride a fish …i978…the spectrum of exposure is quite narrow…am I the only guy who is 56 that even can concieve the abject rediculousness of a board near 13’ let alone ride it without concieving snaking women and adolescents?..I see it like carlos seeking the invisible don Juan asking the question “HOW do YOU live” and the invisible dressed as mescalito pointing towards the void at the oldest guy .who is Pops AH Choy, or Snodgrass or Stan Ross and silently encouraging research into the mindset necesary to become 60,65,70,75,80…83…89…92…94…102…bill huddy body surfing now that was old when you get really old your skin turns as clear as that toehead kids hair …when its wet, from a distance it looks like a shaved head … stan rode a mat snodgrass rode a hot curl pops used a paddle …were these guys reflections of their time? like that kid in grammar school …his moms hair looked the same at every open house like the andrews sisters of the early 40’s… in the 50’s david C’s mom was a time capsule …twenty years from now will the imprinted kids grown up still be riding merrick chipper flippers? sure they will,mimicing memorized ad hype …deeper penetration into the wave …aw come on down to the lets make a deal with monty hall for your concious mind …this refuge is an oppertunity to really stretch out and yawn,open mouth deep breathing , devouring potentials and reacting to sensation outside the narrow box bill of fare of the contemporary design forum…in that magazine they are more the same than they are different… no guts? the posturing about busting down the door or raising the bar doesn’t hold a candle to kicking out the sides of the box… prone riding ,mat manipulation,vacume rails,phaser bonzer all this should lead to an easing of difficulty and to a healthy participatory older and older age…where is the 1000lb 24’ wave rider? its out there right next to the truth…ambrose…how much does the HOKULEA weigh

Turned 45 in Feb. 5’7" and about low 80 kgs. Have’nt weighed myself for some time. I’ve three boards I ride regularly, a 9’6" old school, a 9’ old school and a 8’ thruster mal for when it gets to big for the other boards. Got my first glass board in the late 60’s. Went through the short board period and as the years progressed the boards started getting longer. I don’t think my surfing style suits the modern short board. I’ve allways loved doing long drawn out turns, none of this snappy vertical stuff for me.platty.

Sorry shortboaders, at 61 in Oregon, I’m happy to be on a 9’6’’ bouyant epoxy shaped by an even older man, Dale Velzy. With the 4/3, gloves and boots, you like to have your feet out of the water, early and high take-offs, and something stable when you lumber to your feet. I surfed short boards in the early 70s around Santa Cruz (after starting in So Cal in l960 on the long logs) , and they were fun. But, after taking a big break to raise two sons, when I came back to surfing five years ago, there was no way I could ride those boards.

This board has amazingly better performance because of its lightness than anything else its size I’ve ridden. I’ve done turns I never did before–even on short boards.

My oldest friend, my age, who lives on the North Shore of Oahu, recently went down to an eight-footer, which he said, “Rode well, but the transportation left something to be desired.” He rides Sunset, so you can probably sympathize.

I’ve got a nine-foot semi-gun shaped by local Cort Gion

that I tried on tropical reef breaks. It felt like a skateboard to me, but it sure was fast. I may take it out here some day soon, but to try anything below that around these parts appears about as ludicrous as the old man hat I wear in the water.

To tell you youngsters the truth, you have everything to look forward to–surfing, along with much else, just gets better with age.

Ok, I’m one of those guys that was caught in the bad war. You know the one that no one liked. I went off to do my duty in 1966 and left behind my 10’ long board. I came back in 1968 and paddled out on my 10’ long board and got lafted out of the water. I stayed out of the water for 22 years. One day a guy said that I should try surfing and that long boards were the new thing. In 1967 I was 185 lbs and surfed a 10’ board now I’m 57 years and surf from 10’6" to 11’6". I’m having problems carrying the big boards but I still love them. I was gone when the short boards came out and quit surfing when they started getting big. All I have ever known is long boards. I love them and as long as I surf I will be on one. I surf when I know I can handle the waves on my big boards. If it gets too big I watch. Eather way it is fun and that is what it is all about. If you surf it should be fun if your having fun your doing it right.

Im 52 years old and have been surfing for 38 years. I’ve gone from longboards to shortboards to mini longboards and back to longboards. I presently ride a 9’-0", a 5’-10" old school fish, and I am working on a 9"-0’ single fin. I like the style and smooth flow of longboarding, not to mention the ease of paddling and wave catching ability. As much as I like the skatey feel of the fish, my ability to catch waves and my reaction time on take-offs, at this age are lacking. The shortest shape that I would concider now would be in the 7’ range. My new theory is ride what feels good, just keep riding!

43 years old last Saturday

6’5" 185 pounds

6’5" 20-1/4" X 2-7/8" squash tail thruster and Bonzer

6’10" 19-5/8" X 2-5/8" round pin thruster

7’4" 19-5/8" X 2-3/4" round pin thruster

8’6" 19-3/4" X 2-7/8" round pin thruster

9’6" 21" X 3" Long Board 2+1

All Red X hold for the 7’4" which is a 1982 Al Merrick with glass ons

ah. ive done it. ordered a longboard today. havent ridden one in 3 years. i miss it.

I’m 27 6’4" 210lbs and I ride high performance shortboards, though sized up a bit to work with my mass and my stance.

6’5" and 6’7" x 19.5" x 2.5" squash thrusters are the core of my quiver.

I also do enjoy longboards, just don’t happen to have one at the moment, having broken a favorite yater years ago. Actually, I’ll ride pretty much anything you throw in front of me for kicks… I’ve had fun sessions on a bonzer, an old 6’er single fin egg, big classic longboards (a weber and a pope) … theres lots of great boards out there.

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Ok, I’m one of those guys that was caught in the bad war. You know the one that no one liked.

A sincere Thank You for your service…

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Ok, I’m one of those guys that was caught in the bad war. You know the one that no one liked.

A sincere Thank You for your service…

Totally agree with meecrafty

Thank you