your age, your board

Im 18, about 6’1" and 175 lbs. I ride a 9’ log that I shaped myself. I didn’t really know what I was doing at the time, so unfortunatly, I cant really comment as far as performance… It catches waves early though! haha!

Ive been lurking around the forum for a while and decided to hop on and introduce myself. I started surfing about a year ago and the funny thing is that I built my first board before I ever surfed. Gaviota is the logo on my boards because its pretty close to where I first surfed (and the Gaviota pier was where the Bear’s shop was in Big Wednesday)

I’ve been going through the archives and have’nt been able to come up with an unanswered question yet! Swaylocks is a truely awesome resource and I have learned so much from reading some of the info posted here. Especially guys like Jim Phillips and Ghunt, you guys rock! But everyone has inspired me to keep learing about shaping glassing and making boards. Really stoked about the sport and the craft!!

Anyway, Hope to see you in the water!!

aloha,

-John

PS. Jim im going to order your DVDs as soon as I can!!

5’11", 180-185, 57 yrs, surfing since '62, on shorter boards since since '67. Current quiver consists of 6 (soon 7) boards from 7-0 to 9-6 in 6" increments: 3 are custom styrene/epoxies (Pointblanks & Loehr), 1 is an S-tech, 1 a B-works, 1 a poly/poly (with another due in yesterday).

Assets: former national level competitive swimmer (quals/invite for '64 Olympic trials). 4 thou to 6 thou yds/week stationary swims and board paddles. Moderate weight lifting, calisthenics.

Liabilities: age related, irreversible decline of overall/total body strength and endurance. Neck/shoulder osteo-arthritis diagnosed at 52, hernia op at 53. Diminished recuperative power. Inability to sustain conditioning/strength w/o regular workouts. Inevitably diminishing returns on workouts. A tendency to gain weight.

Conclusions: I’ll be a true “looongboarder” soon, maybe not tomorrow, forced to restrict my surfing to long-period smallish swells which afford me an easy paddle-out…but I won’t go there quietly, w/o fighting.

I’ll be 48 in a month. I mostly ride boards between 7 and 8 feet, although I longboard when the waves get small; I ride a 12’2" tandem board with my wife or kids, a couple guns between 9’6" and 10’ for when it gets big, a 6 foot fish that I ride standup and/or kneeboard on, etc etc. Pretty much just depends on the wave conditions… most of my boards are built sturdy to last longer. I don’t find it that important to have super-light boards.

stoked with this thread…gives a personal touch,and some personality to all the names here…

born in 68 , got my first board in 70 , can actually remember gettin it ,been addicted to surf for the last 34 years …

have ridden long and shortboards all the way through , rode longboards even through that twenty five year period they were considered uncool…

my quiver is to large to itemise,

longest 9’-10" , shortest 6’-4",

retro singles to composite areospace lightweights,

will surf what ever is needed to get the best out of any conditions or myself depending on my mood…

have 2 surf stoked grommets and like j troy was putting my boys in the water at a young age

im sticking some photos in before the novelty wears off ,one of them is my son surfing with me when he was 3 , he’s 8 now and has the cleanest style for a kid, not as radical or gutsy as some of his mates , but consistent ,selective and smoothe…

hope you enjoy em…

regards

BERT

Hey Bert, nice pics, especially the tandem with your son… he’ll remember those waves his whole life, I’ll wager.

I’d like to see quiver photos from some of you guys. Maybe I’ll drag all my boards out and shoot them from the roof of my house or something… might encourage me to clean my garage!

funny you mention that , i was thinking the same thing today,taking a photo of my quiver , my backyard is small , i think it would take 3 loads to fit em all in ,

i was going through some photos today and found a photo of a quiver line up we took on a dessert trip back in 90 ,there were three of us surfing and we had 16 boards between us …

everything i was riding in 1990 is in that photo, eight of em are mine 9 if you include the chick…my quiver that year ranged from 9’-6" mal to 6’-6" ,7 fin 6 channeled barracuda,

to this day my quiver continues to snowball…

when will it stop??? 2 addictions boards and surf…

regards

BERT

Just turned 37; 5’10"; 170-180lbs (don’t get to surf much).

Surfboards:

  • Gary Hanel 7’ Bonzer egg (everyday magic board for anything over waist-high)
  • 9’6" heavy, 50/50 rail longboard (anything smaller than waist-high; fun fun fun)
  • 9’6" single fin “performance” log (useful for those +5mm rubber January paddle outs)
  • 6’10 JT single fin “egg-like” diamond tail (for hollow head high surf; not used much around here)
  • 5’10" Rodger Beal “La Jolla Reef Design” fish (not yet ridden)
  • 7’2" CI semi-gun tri-fin with 6 channels (used 2-3 times/year; for clean hurricane surf)

On the way:
  • two wide 6’6" or 6’8" Bumblebee bonzers in EPS/RR epoxy (one thick; one thin+cancave deck)
  • 9’ Rodger Beal bonzer longboard to share with the wife

On the way out (attic rafters):
  • 6’2" potato chip tri-fin (ding-repair & resin pinline practice board)
  • 5’10" WRV Lazor-Zap single fin (this board may be on the way back in!)

Freshly 38 and about 5’8 and 160 pounds

Just got back from Costa Rica and rode the following from the quiver:

6’8 Bat pintail mini-gun: really happy I had this as Hermosa got up to about 10-12

6’6 Kechle thruster: this is a slightly bigger version of another Kechle board that was absolute magic - unfortunately the magic was left out of this one - still worked pretty well on the medium sized days

6’0 Chris Birch traditional fish: even though its a little bit big for me, I love this board: had so much fun riding it at lined up Escondida

I’m doing my best to stay in shape as I get older, despite the desk job. I guess I’m doing ok as I was able to keep up with my 19 and 21 year old nephews for the whole trip. For the rest of you aging guys, I recommend Surfing and Health (or something like that) by Doc Paskowitz. Although the book would have benefited from an editor it is full of great information and stories developed over many years. Doc is living proof of his methods.

bert and I have the same problem. Whenever i have enough money for a new board I buy one, even though i dont need one and all of my other ones work fantastic. i just love having new shapes and riding different boards. it really is an addiction.

I’m 30, weight 176 pounds, 6’ tall, I’ve been surfing for 13 years, I’ve only surfed shortboards (6’5’’ under), my actual surfboard is a 6’0’’ truster squash tail (flyer al merrick template) fairly flat rocker thick boxy rails… turns on a dime though… I planning on shaping myself a 6’6’’ round pin for bigger waves…

Pushing 50, 6’, 200lbs…

On recent surf trip, I had the opportunity to ride a range of different boards in good waves without interference from crowds. Sampled rides on a 12’ Parmenter Paddle/Surf Vehicle, an 11’6" that I had made for a friend, a 10’2" Cooperfish, my own 9’2" swallow tail, and my Dale Solomonson Neumatic Inflatable.

All the boards worked and it was a real treat for me getting to try the different designs. I guess the 9’2" was my shortboard. Photo of 9’2" swallow tail…

Just turned 55. I understand I can now ride with my fellow seniors on the bus to Laughlin for a low price and stay for cheap.

Despite the good deal, it makes me too nervous to get that far inland.

Got a dozen or so between 8-8 and 10-4. I carry a minimum of 2 with me at all times and those are usually 10 foot or more. Like to also ride the 8-8 belly board(El Paipo Grande) as it actually paddles as good as the 10 0’s.

Roger

These first three boards are the ones I am riding currently. Also a 9’ old school,but no photos.

9’6" old school 50/50 railer, glassed with 10 oz and Vinylester resin.

8’ thruster.

8’ Gordon Woods pintail circa 1967/68.



These three boards are being restored. I plan to ride the Ron 9’6" and the San Juan 7’2". The Hohensee Tracker is a wall hanger. I’ve tried to ride it, but it will not turn.platty.



platty your gonna love my pics of my old school boards …someone gave an old mal to my friend to give to me …i thought it was gonna be a peice of junk,when i went to his house to get it , i thought it was a joke ,it was just to good to give away, fin snapped off and a few dings but flawless condition pre 67 longboard it was still green . i was so excited i started making a new fin and working on it straight away,when i get my camera youll freak at the condition of it …i should finish it this week…

regards

BERT

I’m 53. I have a 7’10" Liddle “inbetweener”,7’6" Liddle egg, 7’6" Liddle tri fin semi gun, 8’0" Liddle(longboard),5’8"McCoy “Horan”,6’0"Urbany fish, and a Paul Gross mat.

I’m 48 yrs old - 8 yrs surfing

5’6" 160 lbs

I ride:

9’1" Driftwood 2+1

8’0" Island epoxy mini LB

6’8" Neilson Funshape

I started late, so on bigger boards, am moving smaller as I get older & better.

Man, Poser, board addictions…ain’t dat da troof. I like trying different boards to see and feel the differences of each shape. Sometimes it’s just too tempting to buy a new/used board if I like the way it feels and the checking account allows.

As far as age/boards…I’m 32, 165lbs, and usually surf in sloppy East Coast surf. I started out surfing here when I was about 14 on a 5’4" Surfboards Hawaii twinny. Boards were a little thicker then, but I only weighed about 110lbs with a wetsuit. We moved to Guam a year laters, and I got spoiled on some fast, powerful, hollow, mean surf. We came back here when I was about 17 and I kept on surfing, but not as much (college more than anything else). I kept my smaller thruster from Guam for about 4 years, then bought a smaller, skinnier, lighter Greg Loeher epoxy. It was great in decent size surf, but anything under stomach high was a bit of a challenge. I was 145lbs at this point. I think I just wasn’t thrilled with the local surf, so started turning more energy (and cash) into windsurfing. In the meantime, I started lifting more, gained 20 lbs., I also bought a funshape, and started surfing a lot less, but windsurfed just about anytime the wind was over 11 knots. I wavesailed most of that time, but it got to the point that I was only surfing a few times a year…and that was always on a funshape (ok for everything, good for nothing). Around 2002, I finally got tired of the funshape and started getting frustrated/bored/tired with windsurfing…especially in flat water. I started to move to smaller boards again, but it took me a while to feel comfortable on anything under stomach high on a short board. I’ve pretty much stopped windsurfing except when it is over 18 knots and the surf looks like Victory at Sea. As for kitesurfing, gave it a shot, but I don’t have anywhere near the interest required to maintain another time and money intensive windsport. I won a 9’4" Hobie Performance NoseRider about a year ago, and use that, or a 6’10"x22"x2 1/2 Davo retro fish for the real small days. Most of the time I ride a 6’2"x21"x2 3/4 rocket fish. I’m hoping to get a 5’8 fish pretty soon. The thing just moves like crazy even in crappy surf.

The point of all that…As you get older, your priorities will probably shift, you might have to spend some time out of the water from time to time, you might move to a different kind of break, and your weight might fluctuate. No matter what, don’t get lazy and allow yourself to dramatically switch up in volume if you think you want to stay on a shortboard, or prefer the maneuverability of a shortboard. If you decide to get a longboard as an alternate board, make sure you take your shortboard out regularly, too.

I’ll be 30 in August. I’m 5’10", around 170lbs, and this August will mark my 20th year of surfing.

I grew up in ‘shortboard 80s’ and am a product of that era.

I own a growing collection of sticks, ranging from 5’8" on up to 9’11". I primarily ride boards in the 5’8" to 6’3" tall and 2 3/8" to 2.5" thick range, mostly fishes and standard shortboards.

As someone else mentioned, it depends on how staying in shape, eating right, stretching, and what you’re accustomed to riding.

The muscles involved in balance on a person who has ridden 9’+ boards for the past 30 years are going to differ vastly from a person who has ridden 6’ chips all his/ her life.

I say, ride them all. Don’t be a longboarder or a shortboarder. Be a surfer. Just don’t be a sponger!!

I’m 43 5’8" 162lb Surf a 9’2 noserider small days, 7’4" mini mal in onshore slop and mostly 6’7 X 19 1/2 X 2 7/16 shortboard. Started surfing at 41 and this year started to train hard and watched my diet(Cut carbs) more carefully. dropped 20 lbs and 8 ins boardsize. I hope to be riding a 6’2" for winter.

I love longboards but I mostly have to deal with beachbreaks I prefer to ride something I can duckdive. STrangely, I know that I could really rip on a performance mal but I feel that I have to master the shortboard first.

This has already paid dividends when I occasionally take out the mini-mal and I’m doing off the lips etc.

My training is about 5/6 days per week

300 situps, 30 pressups, 30 pop-ups, and I have a machine like a vasa trainer (York bodygym 2000) which I do 7 X 3min efforts with 90secs recovery. Paddling has become a non-issue over the past 6 months, whereas it was the main issue last year. I can now catch as many waves as most 20 somethings on the shortboard.

My progression is now only limited by the lack of quality waves, and my reluctance to go beyone double overhead . As I still have the jitters since being trapped under water when a waveski belt jammed some time ago.

SUre I have my arthritic problems etc, as you get older you just accept them and work around them. Thats how I took up surfing, as I couldn’t run or do martial arts due to bad knees. But I am conscious of one thing, I try and make every session count, realising that for whatever reason, this session could be my last and that maybe, this is as good as it ever gets. As an runner in my 20’s I regret not enjoying the wins more as I always considered them a stepping stone to greater glory, whereas they were the pinnacle.