I kinda didn’t want to post . . . but might as well. I’m probably the one with the least surfing experience. And the smallest quantity quiver!
age 26 . . . started surfing in winter 05. Started on a longboard that was borrowed, learned to trim on that, then borrowed a 6’6’ CI Flyer, did what some call a cutback.
I learned to swim when I started college (well I could swim before, but it took me like 10 minutes to go from one end of the pool to the other bad technique :\Þ
Current quiver is 6’2 swallow tail Bill Johnson shapes (I should stop surfing it, its a collectors item, but forget about it it’s a mainstay in my quiver).
I have a 6’2 CI MBM. That is the closest to a magic board for me. It was the first board I could pull a roundhouse on.
I also have 6’2 CI flyer, I scored both that and the MBM at pre black Monday prices, this is going to my small wave ‘equaliser’ board.
I could potentially score a) 6’2 CI quad and b) a 6’0 pavel retro shortboard, but negotiations are currently in effect. But those will be around in fall. Also I could borrow a harbour SR 7’6 ( a nice ride) but it isn’t always available.
Thats it. The rest of my quiver I’m going to build.
I’m starting pick up on surfing, and have been doing it solo, watching people, so I bought a few videos (plus working on getting a pc to pull videos off surf sites ). Never been shacked, haven’t had a 10 second ride, never been at breaks outside of SD, so lots of fun things to do.
As for age, its nuthing but a number. Why? Here’s a little story hiss boo ‘aw not another one hiro!’ I paddled out at swamis at tender age of 4 mo’s. I could barely trim. I scoped out s****'s (break in in north county, next to a Indian building and VERY crowded) . Surprise there was a few crowds, and I paddled out. For some reason the crowed tripled by the time I got at the main peak. Watched people catch waves. A outside set bursted and I paddled, and the curl broke to the right of me a walled up right, Some gray haired guy paddled on a orange, purple and pink shortboard, caught a wave bottom turned and raced up the face at me, then over the lip and boosted an air over me.
Corky Carroll had told me I was to old to do airs, but this gray haired guy was tearing the @#! outta the waves. After an hour or so, I was in position, no one was paddling, and I caught one, trimmed down, but the wave out ran me (I didn’t learn about scooting forward to midline yet), when the gray haired guy paddled back out he just nodded at me.
Nothing was said but later I look back and realized Corky was wrong, the gray haired guy was right. Looking at Kelly Slater and Tom Curren, they still rip. It is your choice.
Someone gave props (proper recognition) to Jim Phillips. Jim P is cool and very helpful. Thanks man!