Well it has been almost two years since I posted on this thread.
I’m still riding the 9’6" 50/50 railer as my main board. I have a new 10’ 50/50 railer which has not seen much action. Hopefully this winter. Plus I was given a snapped 9’ HP pintail which I have repaired and surf when it gets to big for the oldschool boards. I still have all the other boards mentioned. They do get surfed from time to time. platty.
51 years young, happy to still be waking up and being able to stand up on anything (even the ground!)
One of my boards;
…
I went to try on my first full suit at xcel today in 13 years
the one I bought last time was an L this one is a XLS I asked if they came bigger.
When I tried them on on looked in the mirror I almost threw up.
…
hope I don’t scare all the fish and waves away
So I’m not the only one who suffers from the “Baby Beluga” complex. Good!
BTW, I remain amused at the difference in temperature perception between right and left coast surfers (although right coasties are starting to copy y’all). On my first trip to Cali in 1969 I found surfers at Huntingdon Pier out on a sunny February day with 70-plus degree air and 60-plus degree (iirc) water temps attired in full rubber and bitching about how unmercifully cold it was. I had to stifle a giggle because at the time those were the conditions when most NJ surfers would consider ditching the neoprene altogether. Doesn’t make one group right and one wrong, but it’s curious.
-Samiam
im 39 6’7" 240
ride 10’ 6" noserider 9’6" high performance 7’ 4" swallow tail rocket 7’8" swallow fun hybrid quad( under construction as we speak) i always seem to lean toward the glide on the big heavy 10 6" ever in bigger surf , but im hopeful that i can dial in my 7’ 8" to be my go to board in bigger surf
57, dammit :->
Currently just two sticks:
8’4 George Gerlach spec fun/hybrid with a fishy split tail and tri-fin cluster
10’ Nolte standard longboard
With my other commitments in the recent past I couldn’t justify additional boards for the time spent in the water. I see that changing this summer as I experiment with a new construction method. I anticipate that the building costs for that method will be low, and I will want to have iterative design changes to isolate various characteristics…
-Samiam
"
51 years young, happy to still be waking up and being able to stand up on anything (even the ground!)
One of my boards;
"
So, Artman…
do you surf the ‘inverted dutch clog rocker’ one on the left of your photo much ?
Is that your
a] stand up paddle board
b] teahupoo tow-in novelty board
c] both ?
cheers ! ben
I use 2 boards
6’0 X 18.75 X 12.1/4 X 14.5 X 2.3 Squashtail for forehand
6’3 X 19 X 11.3/4 X 14.3/4 X 2.3 Rounded pin for backhand
and I am 33
age 23, 5’10, 185lbs.
started surfing at age 7, rode thrusters, old longboards, bodyboards.
age 21 got in a nasty car accident, back injury, weight gain, out of the water 8 months.
my back is still proper fucked, but i’m in much better shape. this is essentially why i stopped standup surfing, ruined my pop-up on anything but my logs.
current quiver:
9’6 Harbour San-O model
9’9 Will Allison longboard gun, singlefin
7’0 Merrick MSF single
6’2 Castor channelbottom twinny
4’10 fish kneeboard
42" bodyboard
T2 Tech fins, UDT’s, Toobs Bluntcuts
47" Gravity skateboard
soon come: neumatic surf mat.
sorry to hear about your accident mate .
I would love to see a photo of that quiver one day , if it’s not too much trouble please ?
…it sounds interesting .
I think you are the youngest respondant , so far ? [ but young Josh seems to have gone off air since he moved recently …]
cheers !
ben
given the reasoning, i thought i would respond.
as one goes past their 50th, muscle mass begins a very serious decline. i feel it is essential to do resistance training as well as flexibility training in addition to surfing as much and as long as possible. additional cardio training never hurts either.
currently 5’4/172…about 20 lbs over my competition weight in 99/00, but then, it’s 6 years later isn’t it? age 63, but i’m in very good shape for a 48 year old guy.
rides:
6’6 modern fish with a thruster set up. took the template from a 70’s greg loehr fish i have in the shed.
8’4 mush gun. hurricane hunter.
9’2 hi performance, parallel railed, 2 + 1, noserider.
9’2 single fin, thick domed deck, rolled up rails in the rear with concave and down rails in the nose. summer crowd special.
mostly riding the 9’2 hi perf right now as the single is in the repair shed and it is the worst winter for surf that i can remember…since '64.
i don’t surf the inlet anymore, but the kids haven’t made me leave the water yet. most frequent comment i get is: “think you got enough waves today?”.
i don’t surf the inlet anymore, but the kids haven’t made me leave the water yet. most frequent comment i get is: “think you got enough waves today?”.
the cheeky little buggers !
but , what they really mean is
“it’s not “fair” **, you’re not letting US get all the waves” !
[unless of course , you REALLY ARE a wave hog …like an old guy here where I surf … unfortunately , this nearly 70 yo guy is a hazard to everyone , including himself too ! But he still doesn’t realize it [or care] yet ]
ahhh [yawn , sigh] …the “ME” generation eh ?
ben
** [what really IS in life , anyway ?]
i would have gladly put up a photo, but my shitty little digicamera was stolen by a hotel maid. there’s a pic of the castor somewhere on the surfermag photo album. i’ll find it later and post a link.
i think my uncle has a camera i can borrow. if it’s nice outside this weekend i’ll get a quiver photo for you.
i noticed that most of the responses to this thread were from you older guys, i was wondering where all of the younger lockians were. where did josh go?
cheers
here it is…just found it.
cheers maaan
you read my ‘mind’ …the caster sounded interesting …
what are the dimensions of that , please ?
gee, that’s the last time you fraternise with hotel staff eh ?
[I won’t ask what you and her were doing in a hotel room with a digital camera then , shall I ?!]
re : "where did josh go? "
young Josh will be stoked !!! […even more so than usual , if that’s possible ?!]
he is now in the area where “platty” , “bish” , “bunyip”, “oldy” live !
…board swap time there , for sure … and , when / IF the “Auslocks board” ever arrives there … hopefully oldy can film 'JOSH…the MOVIE" then…
…I mean , really , HOW MANY 15y.o.'s do you know who ride a spoon , a surf mat , a mal , a thruster , a single fin , skateboards , sandboards ? And get to travel as much as he does ? [having a dad who surfs must RULE , I reckon !]
ben
20, 9’6" and a 7’4" transition-era pintail.
the board didn’t have any dims on it, and i am the third owner that i know of, so i’m guessing at least five or six owners total, as the two previous owners didn’t surf at all. a good friend of mine gave it to me before he moved to Chile. Yet he doesn’t surf…go figure.
it’s roughly 6’2 20 or 21 wide, about 3" thick, 4 channel, single bump. the fins were originally boxes, and somewhere along the line someone decided to glass them on, but did a piss poor job. i snapped one on my first good hard bottom turn during hurricane frances a few years ago. we glassed it back on, but it’s such a shitty fin to start with that it might not have been worth the effort.
this is the board i started kneeling on. i have since stripped the glass(waaaay too many dings and cracks to make it worth patching) and am planning on making a little paipo type board to ride prone. haven’t decided whether i’m going to put fins on it, or just really accentuate the channels and see if it holds. suggestions?
jamie
keep the original shape …
and find that hotel maid and get your camera back
A caster twin fin , if you restored it back to good condition …WELL worth keeping , for when your rehab is complete and you one day stand up surf short boards again [I hope]
I used to have a Bill Caster skatedeck in the 1970s …wish I still had it [can’t remember what happened to it]
ben
wish i could say what you are implying is true chips, but i don’t know who the maid was that got it, but it was in cleveland, and f*** going back to cleveland, ever. i’d rather buy a new camera twice. no offense to any ohio lurkers, but that place is shithouse.
i had planned on keeping true to the original shape, just rounding the nose a bit and riding it prone for now, hopefully one day i’ll be fully healed, but that’s not real likely with back injuries. add to the fact that i lift 5g buckets of paint for a living and don’t surf enough(yet) and i don’t see myself being able to ride shortboards standup any time soon.
though john peck says he’s getting younger by the day, in that movie Quiver: the long and short of it. so hopefully with time, i’ll start to reverse aging. anyone around here know John or what he does besides surfing and yoga to stay healthy?
i stretch a lot, but at this point i’m not sure if i’m ready to start serious yoga, might be too stressful on the lower back.
back to the first question, to fin or not to fin?
32, 5’10" 200# (14 stone: always loved those units), surfing 3 years
I ride a 9’6" (1st board, now just a loaner/summer cruiser), a 8’0 mini-LB (under head high, pictured below), an eggy 7’6" thruster (my overhead board), and soon (I should finish shaping this weekend) a 6’6" fish and a sportier 7’4 thruster. Dozens more are floating around in my head.
I
Matt
42 years old, 185 lbs, married, three kids, but still try to not miss a swell…
everyday boards for small days are:
6’4" retro fish (23" wide, deep swallow, glass-on keels)
6’2" modern “fish” (mini-swallow thruster, single to double)
6’0" twinnie (21.5" wide, single to double, fcs rocket fish fins)
9’2" single fin longboard for days that are long, and small and peeling (who dosent love hanging ten!)
6’6" squash thruster for when it’s good and in the head high range
for big days (nor’easters and hurricanes) 6’8" round pin thruster
31 years old
6 foot, 215 lbs.
Regular everyday shorty is 6’4"-18.75-2.25 squash single to double concave. by surf presriptions
Favorite board is a 6’6"-18.5-2.25 six channel with a pulled in round pin tail. Only rode it a couple times but the lift and the speed down the line is amazing.busted the center fin off coming in @ C-street at low tide so its out of service. that ones shaped by doc too, told him to make it for Rincon.