“It Doesnt Count Unless You Stand” The other day I was out surfing fun, overhead waves on a relatively uncrowded afternoon, when I dropped in on a body boarder. It wasnt a big deal, as I immediately kicked out when I saw he was trimming behind me. Still, I dropped in on him knowing full well he was going on the wave, and I did so without giving it a second thought. When I reflected on the incident later, I realized that I wouldn’t have done the same thing had he been a stand-up surfer. It was as if I was unconsciously making a statement that I was not going to give the body boarder the benefit of the doubt on that wave or on any wave for that matter. Traditionally, theres always been a great deal of debate over what constitutes true surfing. Specifically, proponents of less-orthodoxed manners of wave-riding body boarding, knee boarding, surf kayaking, and other forms of riding waves have long lobbied for equal status in the surfing lineup. But save a few exceptions, they have always been denied. Why is it we stand-up surfers discriminate against other forms of wave riding? And dont sit there and try to tell me we dont. Lets be honest when was the last time you welcomed with equal respect a body boarder at your local break? Hooted at one after a particularly good ride? I thought so. If youre at all like me, and I suspect you are, you dont like them, period. They clog lineups, require minimal skill to ride, and can turn and take off at the last second on a wave without the risk of falling. Surf kayakers, for their part, are able to catch waves dozens of yards further out than stand-up surfers, are less maneuverable and therefore represent an increased collision risk, and just plain look dorky (okay, thats a cheap shot how about aesthetically unpleasing?). I realize I am likely offending many of you out there who use alternative wave riding vehicles. But I simply point out what is a commonly held opinion, and once more Im not saying that its right. Just ask any surfer how they feel about the issue, and if they are honest, they will undoubtedly say the same. And for those of you surfers out there who think you dont discriminate, think long and hard before you proclaim saint status. Heres an easy way to test yourself: imagine surfing your favorite secret spot with just yourself and a friend. The surf is firing, and the two of you are trading waves, having a ball. Suddenly, a car pulls up, and three surfers jump out. Would you prefer they be body boarders as opposed to stand-up surfers? How about surf kayakers? Knee boarders? Im willing to bet that nine out of ten of you would rather they be other surfers, and that if they werent you would treat them differently in the water. The surfing media is noticeably silent on the issue. They never come out and actually say it, but when was the last time you saw a photo of a body boarder or a knee boarder in a mainstream surfing publication? With their silence, the magazines and video producers have made their own judgments as to what is surfing. But they also realize that if they were to come out and say anything specific, they would risk alienating a portion of their audience that may not ride traditional surfboards . This merely represents more evidence of the exclusivity inherent in modern surfing. Elitist bastards are we. I mean, along with many other surfers I know, I too first learned to ride waves on a body board. So how is it that I now look at my prone counterpart as an invading alien, as opposed to a tribal brother? Are we not all wave riding brethren, sharing waves equally and enjoying the oceans beauty? Absolutely not seems to be the answer, and for that we are all to blame. But perhaps there is more to it than simple ethnocentricity. If one were to look at the history of surfing, the earliest depictions of wave riding involved outrigger canoes in Polynesia, reed boats in Peru, and kayak-like craft in Alaska. But these for the most part were working craft, and it was the Polynesians who can lay claim to evolving surfing into a leisure activity, a sport originally reserved for Hawaiian royalty. These kings and queens were not, however, riding body boards, nor were they riding on their knees. They were standing, and much of the skill and grace depicted through historical imagery and prose centers around stand-up surfing. Is it too much to assume then that our modern-day prejudices may stem from these original depictions of surfing, where royalty was revered for their skill and acumen in standing upright on a surfboard? Advocates will counter and point to well-respected surfing luminaries such as Mike Stewart, George Greenough, and Tom Morey as examples of famous wave riders who did not stand but are still held in very high regard (although it should be noted that all three did/do partake in stand-up surfing as well). That may be true, but they also represent exceptions to the rule. They were pioneers in body boarding and knee boarding, yet despite all of their accomplishments, even they could not push other wave riding forms to a place of broad acceptance and respect. Like it or not, there is an unspoken code that prevails amongst surfers around the globe, one that has been shaped by surf-culture norms that have evolved from the early days of surfing. It is a sentiment that is not necessarily right or just, but it still exists nonetheless. If you listen closely enough, you can hear it whispered down at the beach, or in a car full of surfers with boards on top, or at the local theater watching the latest surf film: It Doesnt Count Unless You Stand. Get some waves. - 2002 Dane Larson/SurfPulse
I didnt want to read this cuz of all that “&8217” crap…what is that? I drop in on spongers…I dont feel so bad about it when I cant surf southside on a black ball and they are enjoying the waves I want. I dont reguard spongers as I do surfers. I think this seems wrong…but I cant help it. It seems to be an instinct to chase them off the waves. I think most spongers are guys that dont want to put the time in and learn how to surf. The ones who dont pay the dues it takes. the 909rs…the ones that invade the coast when the water is warm and the sun is hot. Am I evil?
I didnt want to read this cuz of all that “&8217” > crap…what is that? I drop in on spongers…I dont feel so bad about it > when I cant surf southside on a black ball and they are enjoying the waves > I want. I dont reguard spongers as I do surfers. I think this seems > wrong…but I cant help it. It seems to be an instinct to chase them off > the waves. I think most spongers are guys that dont want to put the time > in and learn how to surf. The ones who dont pay the dues it takes. the > 909rs…the ones that invade the coast when the water is warm and the sun > is hot. Am I evil? You can easily answer that one for yourself: travel around a bit, and try riding a shortboard at any break that
s heavily populated/dominated by longboarders. What
s it feel like? Try crowding in front of someone in a store just because youre purchasing the most items... or use the same tactic in a bar, just because you think that you
re somehow more of a playero than the dudes ahead of you. What does paying the most “dues” have to do with a particular form of surfings validity? If that
s true, then experienced bodysurfers should be among the first to have wave possession… or those older surfers who have been riding waves for the most years. IMHO, it`s all surfing. In fact, this subject has way more to do with respect, than it does with surfing. Dale
I didnt want to read this cuz of all that “&8217” > crap…what is that? I drop in on spongers…I dont feel so bad about it > when I cant surf southside on a black ball and they are enjoying the waves > I want. I dont reguard spongers as I do surfers. I think this seems > wrong…but I cant help it. It seems to be an instinct to chase them off > the waves. I think most spongers are guys that dont want to put the time > in and learn how to surf. The ones who dont pay the dues it takes. the > 909rs…the ones that invade the coast when the water is warm and the sun > is hot. Am I evil? Using the reasoning that a person can burn another person because he’s on bodyboard is just an excuse. It’s a cop-out. Plain and simple. It’s still a person regardless of what he’s riding. If it were a “standup” guy that your burning how do you justify it? You can’t, but many will try by saying. “It’s just a longboard slug,” or "He’s burned me so I’ll burn him. “It’s just a sponger” It’s whatever excuse is convenient at the time to justify your actions. Good old human nature. Now here in Santa Cruz the object of this sort of abuse is all the surf school graduates (some of it justifiable for their lack of etiquette). I shortboard primarily, kneeboard, sponge and even surf kayaks under certain conditions and have been for 40 years. So this lame excuse that “He hasn’t paid his dues” is BS, another excuse. I sponge at certain spots in Hawaii where the situation is dangerous enough that a mistake can be very ugly so I don’t standup because it’s not my local break and I don’t have it wired. “Magic Sands” in Kona is a good example. Hard breaking left right in front of a lava wall. Make a mistake on a takeoff and your mincemeat. You could argue that I haven’t paid my dues at this spot and I probably never will since I don’t surf it much. It boils down to this, you can fault a person for his actions but to fault him because of what he’s riding is just plain lame. Can you say bigotry! To prove my point just wait and see all the excuses that come flying back because of my comments.
I have been reading this message board for some time and it seems that Dale may be upset because someone popped his surfmat when dropping in. I would imagine with a hole in the surfmat you have a long swim ahead of you. Do they make “fix-a-mat” for repairing a hole in a surfmat? Love you sweetie, Gallstone
I don’t mind the bookies but I hate the yaks. there have been a few pop up now and then in spots I frequent and I’ve never seen one with etiquette (or skill). hogs and drop ins with no idea of the danger they pose to others. I’m bitter about a few close calls, can’t image what mess that could be.
i think the laws should be fair towards surfers and spongers. here in va beach surfers cant surf anywhere but designated surfing areas. but spongers can sponge anywhere they want. so they should at least take them out of the surfing section. it would give surfers more room and cause less cluttering/chaos on summer days. we have 3 surfing areas here each are about 100yds wide. that is the only place for surfers in a city of 3 million people. dont you think it would make sense to move spongers and kayacks away from the surfing section? i sure do.
I have been reading this message board for some time and it seems that > Dale may be upset because someone popped his surfmat when dropping in. I > would imagine with a hole in the surfmat you have a long swim ahead of > you. Do they make “fix-a-mat” for repairing a hole in a surfmat? > Love you sweetie, Gallstone It’s good that you’ve been reading this message board for a long time. Too bad you haven’t learned a thing.
Your system of morals rests on the assumption that some people (standup surfers) start out with privilege. I can understand why you would look for somebody else to agree with you. What you did was wrong. What if you find a hundred selfish people who agree with you? Will that justify your actions? “Would you prefer they be body boarders as opposed to stand-up surfers? How about surf kayakers? Knee boarders? I’m willing to bet that nine out of ten of you would rather they be other surfers, and that if they weren’t.” Why is it in western society, people like you can sell so many people on the “caring” tyrannical view that, in order to accept someone’s right to escape your abuse, you must embrace their identity as acceptable? … “We must embrace her femininity, his alternative lifestyle”. Because your system displaces the whole right/wrong thing with one which people can manipulate… make the rules as you go along… for your convenience… for your privilege… for your victory. I know! What if we allow the rules to govern our actions? What if we all were to stop abusing anyone, no matter who they are? We wouldn’t have to assign privilege to the “in” people or the “out” people. I wouldn’t think of knowingly snaking someone. What difference does it make what people ride or don’t ride? The rules are out there BEFORE you drop in. Nobody’s asking for your approval. They’re demanding your respect. They’re doing something different than you are… Get over it.
I don’t mind the bookies but I hate the yaks. there have been a few pop up > now and then in spots I frequent and I’ve never seen one with etiquette > (or skill). hogs and drop ins with no idea of the danger they pose to > others. I’m bitter about a few close calls, can’t image what mess that > could be. I occasionally “yak” in crappy storm conditions when I can’t boardsurf and it’s a blast and I’d have to say that “yakers” really don’t belong in the lineup with boardsurfers primarily for one reason. “Sidesurfing” This is when a kayak gets caught sideways in the whitewater while " bracing" into it. It can be tricky to break out of this and gain control, until you do you don’t have much control over your direction and will sweep over anything in your path. Some of the squirtboat guys are better. Beyond this situation its just another case of blaming the vhicle for the fault of the user.
What does paying the most “dues” have to do with a particular > form of surfing`s validity? “When someone asks me, ‘Jack Burton, have you paid your dues?’” I just look him straight in the eye and say, ‘Have I paid my dues? Yes, sir, the check is in the mail!’" -From Big Trouble In Little China
I occasionally “yak” in crappy storm conditions when I can’t > boardsurf and it’s a blast and I’d have to say that “yakers” > really don’t belong in the lineup with boardsurfers primarily for one > reason. “Sidesurfing” This is when a kayak gets caught sideways > in the whitewater while " bracing" into it. It can be tricky to > break out of this and gain control, until you do you don’t have much > control over your direction and will sweep over anything in your path. > Some of the squirtboat guys are better. Beyond this situation its just > another case of blaming the vhicle for the fault of the user. yeah, that’s it. I’ve been a very close witness to sidesurfing more than twice in the same day!
I have been reading this message board for some time and it seems that > Dale may be upset because someone popped his surfmat when dropping in. I > would imagine with a hole in the surfmat you have a long swim ahead of > you. Do they make “fix-a-mat” for repairing a hole in a surfmat? > Love you sweetie, Gallstone That
s funny... but I
ve never had that problem, and where Ive spent my time in the water, I
ve only experienced a handful of drop-ins in all my years of surfing. Youre right, I have had to swim for boards and mats... except it
s usually just to catch a wave to bodysurf in on… all part of the game.
Your system of morals rests on the assumption that some people (standup > surfers) start out with privilege. I can understand why you would look for > somebody else to agree with you. What you did was wrong. What if you find > a hundred selfish people who agree with you? Will that justify your > actions?>>> “Would you prefer they be body boarders as opposed to stand-up > surfers? How about surf kayakers? Knee boarders? I’m willing to bet that > nine out of ten of you would rather they be other surfers, and that if > they weren’t.”>>> Why is it in western society, people like you can sell so many people on > the “caring” tyrannical view that, in order to accept someone’s > right to escape your abuse, you must embrace their identity as acceptable? > … “We must embrace her femininity, his alternative lifestyle”. > Because your system displaces the whole right/wrong thing with one which > people can manipulate… make the rules as you go along… for your > convenience… for your privilege… for your victory.>>> I know! What if we allow the rules to govern our actions? What if we all > were to stop abusing anyone, no matter who they are? We wouldn’t have to > assign privilege to the “in” people or the “out” > people. I wouldn’t think of knowingly snaking someone. What difference > does it make what people ride or don’t ride? The rules are out there > BEFORE you drop in.>>> Nobody’s asking for your approval. They’re demanding your respect. They’re > doing something different than you are… Get over it. yes oh my brother! for without his leash he needs no surfboard & without that, no waves. peace and fullfillment are found in having less, not in wanting more. wherever he is, there he shall be. unless he thinks he is elsewhere. yes. get over it. amen
I don’t mind the bookies but I hate the yaks. I saw the guy in Ventura yesterday that paddles in on his kayak, stands, and I thought I saw him walk it a little with a lot of grace (by that time he was way down the line). Is he a yakker kook?
It’s good that you’ve been reading this message board for a long time. Too > bad you haven’t learned a thing. Hey I watch the news every night - this is how it should go if we something we don’t like (as american’s) BOMBIT! That always gets their attention and blast them into OUR way of thinking.
“It Doesn’t Count Unless You Stand” Dude, you must have gotten snaked by a boogie.
Don’t they black ball the beach for spongers who are really swimmers that can’t swim so they don’t get run over by surfers? I remember my old sponger days back in the 60’s like when I was 8 years old. You remember those rafts they used to rent at Hermosa Beach? Spongers remind me of when snowboarding came on the scene. What a bunch of kooks sliding downhill out of control and obstructing skiers who were carving beautiful turns. Finally some snowboarders have developed some skills and can stay out of the way of skiers. Spongers however are placing themselves in danger with surfers because of the different rhythm they have with respect to waveriding. They are typically the ones who seem to get in the way of surfers and don’t show any respect. http://www.harboursurfboards.com
Don’t they black ball the beach for spongers who are really swimmers that > can’t swim so they don’t get run over by surfers? I remember my old > sponger days back in the 60’s like when I was 8 years old. You remember > those rafts they used to rent at Hermosa Beach? Spongers remind me of when > snowboarding came on the scene. What a bunch of kooks sliding downhill out > of control and obstructing skiers who were carving beautiful turns. > Finally some snowboarders have developed some skills and can stay out of > the way of skiers. Spongers however are placing themselves in danger with > surfers because of the different rhythm they have with respect to > waveriding. They are typically the ones who seem to get in the way of > surfers and don’t show any respect. – Novices on surfboards are far more dangerous (to everyone, including themselves) than any other type of beginning surfer… and the issue of disrespect toward others in the water has NEVER been limited to bodyboarders. FYI, the derogative term, “sponger”, wasn
t invented or applied to any prone riders until after the advent of Tom Morey
s “Boogie” bodyboard in 1971. All disciplines of wave riding have their “kook” phase, a learning curve and their experts, and its obvious that many surfers (it
s all surfing) never progress beyond basic competancy… but if theyre out there having fun, and trying not to interfere with others... what
s wrong with that? Besides, a lot of people (adults included) like sliding downhill out of control…
I haven’t seen a surf mat in 30 years. I saw your picture at www.longboard.net. I didn’t realize they were still out there or maybe I didn’t notice. Novices at anything need to learn to respect the more experienced and not create hazardous situations for themselves and others. There is little excuse for being careless. http://www.harboursurfshop.com