My favourite break is … lunch break
cause I get to go surfing midweek with no crowds, every day & still have family time all weekend
And this is the spot
Laniakea???
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Laniakea???
Yes Sir!
Does this spot have a stairway down to the beach ?
Is there a $ in its name ?
If so i remember being out there alone with the Eslon institute on the beach.
Kim Novacs house was not far away.
Laniakea. I knew that. My very first surf there, was a historic day for me. Light offshore wind, near glassy, and a true north shore 15 feet. Nov. 22, 1963. Historic for other reasons also. Speed was unbelievable, walls 200 yds
long, epic size. The only time I maxed the speed of my 10’ 5’', 38 1/2 pound gun. Surfed two sessions, two hours
plus each. Val Valentine was filming all day. Sure wish I had some of those photos. I have to say, that it is my alltime favorite wave of any place I’ve surfed, because of the speed and pucker factor. Even with good equipment, the jury is out as to whether you will make the wave. Not a fun swim when you don’t make it! Sideshore current there is a handfull when the surf is running. I fully agree with your choice.
It’s about a mile north of Chun’s and until last winter, before some jerk cut down the brush blocking most of the vista, was almost a secret spot. Although not the greatest wave on the north shore, it’s been a haven for me from all the name spots overflowing with crowds. A slopey outside left that increasingly starts to get round enough on the inside shelf to get a short barrel or two. Quite fickle to swell direction, it only gets good (or I only catch it good) maybe a few times a season. It can’t really hold much bigger than 6 foot Hawaiian scale (which is pretty much my limit) before getting washed out. Now it’s almost like a regular spot to check and is 2-3 times as crowded as it ever was. I should feel fortunate I had Leftovers for some 36 yrs. before it got pimped.
1 mile down the bike path from Sunset
Gladiator pit
Blood Sport
Pipe-Car Racing-Mountain Climbing ~ Sorry Ernest
john brewer
Bernie,
I like Lani’s it’s my fav NS break !
My fav Hawaiian break is on the big Island,“A”-bay.
If I was A goofy footer,Pipe would be it foresure.Backdoor is great but when things are on at pipe,the left commands all the attention.
SGRM is almost surreal…I’ve gotten rides 2-3Xs++ overhead and rode them for more than 1/2 mile in length.Freighting,down the line,as it’s bends back out to sea and actually gets bigger as it goes along.In my book it can’t be beat!..Not in this world anyway.Herb
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Mantoloking pipeline. Low tide September hurricane southswell 78’. nobody around but close friends
E/S, Stormin’Norman ! I surfed that swell here at my home break…3 boats capsized while trying to exit the RM. I rescued 2 of the 6 or 7 boaters.The rest were never found…I also saved my bro Ray’s ass that day…It is/was still the biggest day I have ever rode/watched at Raybay.H
Quote:
my favorite break
is the break
I take
from
the
world
with you
my friend
and catchin one and riding all the way
and turning around and watching yours caught and slipstreamed
the geography aint that important the water all around ahhhhh the water planet…ambrose…
I’VE BEEN THERE WITH YOU, BROSE !!! I know it in my soul !
People ask me to describe what it is ,where it is,how it is…the best description I’ve ever heard is the one you just gave me !
I now know you have been there and back too !
“I WILL” miss this world with all my heart,and “ALL” the good that is in it…but after the crossing…it’s just not the same.
I’m fighting it… like the longest day…I want to stay…but I hear my train a coming…and there is no cheating the conductor.
Maybe he’ll let me skip this one and I can stay…for awhile longer…I’m not finished here yet…I think,therefore I am…goin’ surfin’ this afternoon.
Because I think,I am ,rather later…it will be soon.
You’rre Wave, ACIII…LHS
See’s reef.