Cough it up…Where,What and Why ?
W1) Seal Beach/LongBeach.OC/LA County line.
W2) SanG. Rivermouth/Raybay
W3) Best rides ever,including the longest socked away barrels ever imagined,some a long as 100 + seconds.
That’s why ! Herb
my favorite break is right between San Francisco and Santa Cruz (you can’t miss it).
the place is a WORK-HORSE beach break. when everywhere else on the coast is knee-high,
wind-blown, slop, this beach is shoulder to head high punchy lefts and rights. every time.
guaranteed. clear water, sand bottom, protected from wind… it’s the goto spot. you gotta
hike to get to it and you can’t easily see it from the road so usually it’s just you and a friend.
fast, punchy, sometimes hollow, left and right walls, from chest to double overhead, with
hardly even a paddle due to the conveyor belt rip. it’s not like a world class wave or anything
but it’s SUPER consistent and always fun.
shoots, i almost started a thread the other day (with pics) in praise of my favorite spot. but
i thought better of it.
sorry, Herb, i can’t name drop. too many people lurk on here. if you’re ever up my way you
can be my guest though.
my favorite break
is the break
I take
from
the
world
with you
my friend
and catchin one and riding all the way
and turning around and watching yours caught and slipstreamed
the geography aint that important the water all around ahhhhh the water planet…ambrose…
All my favorite breaks are shut down right now. 
http://www.swaylocks.com/forum/gforum.cgi?do=post_view&post=346244
Hi,
My Favorite break is my homebreak: Santinho’s beach. It’s located in the Northshore of Santa Catarina Island, Southern Brazil (there’s a WQS event at the begginning of competition season). It’s a beach break that traditionally breaks like any mushy Brazilian beach break, but when things come together, you can enjoy its potential. On the left corner, just behind the coast of rocks, when an E swell meets WNW winds, then it starts working like a real point break. Long barreling lefthanders can make us fell like lottery winners. Below, just a sample…
Can’t tell…sorry
OK this place. But I’m not telling. It’s already kind of crowded
everyone knows it’s pickleweed point!!!
Sorry, you’ll have to guess, no naming secret spots:
Uh? You mean it’s not secret anymore since 1960? Well, then…
raybay when it on
poipu at the waiohi
kalapaki is fun when all the locals are out bunch of great guys
sano
Hmmmmm,
Alltime has to be #3s before the crowds became insane.
2nd would be Chuns under the same conditions as above
3rd by default it has to be Bolsa Chica because it’s home and I’m old
Oh, go on…
Sunset Beach. 8-10 foot Nor-west swell. light trades. 9 foot Brewer/Chapman pintail.
Late afternoon. Huge emeraldic peaks backlit by the sun setting over Kaena point.
Owl, Bill Sickler, Peter Cole, Me mate Jack Roberton who I grew up with.
Rocket Drops.
Cold beers bought from Kammies into the night.
im going to mention shio fuki, roughly translates to “blowhole”“salt-spray”.
a small active volcanic island around 6 thousand square feet positioned about 800 meters from shore at the entrance to a large bay on a peninsula. the bay is facing south east to the pacific. deep water with smooth gradual transition to shallower shelf just beyond the island. between the island and shoreline is a underwater rock pile of hardened magma “stones” “rocks” etc with the largest being just under boulder sized.
produces long walled rights between island and shoreline with a wraparound wave “ramp” coming in at a 90 degree angle to the larger direct swell wave from the other side of said island.
the main wave has a section bout halfway when it comes hardest. this section punches through midface first then bottom and top simultaneously full force. cant drive through. been there done that. anything under a thousand pounds, forget it. go try again.
the ramp wave can be used to get air then continue after landing on the original. Will launch a two hundred pound surfer on a ten foot board at full speed entirely airbourne. been there done that.
on the downside of the swell the ramp can be surfed in to the shoreline. btdt
breaks only a few times in a good year.
what a… “i’m speechless”
Here is a different gem on the other side of the peninsula facing west with lefts, long lefts. I call it “left hooks”.
Imagine a larger bay without the earthy contact creating an island and opposite orientation plus typhoon swell. Hang on. to air?, nah id rather fly.
The waves here are fair to middlin’ (some epic stuff occasionally) and I only get to surf it one weekend a year but the company I keep makes it the best…
For me its definetly this spot below. On Monday I was very fortunate to score 100+ yard, perfect, empty, overhead to double overhead barrels. I was the first guy out and it was freaking ROPING! Then it was 2 others out for 1/2 hour then 5 others for an hour before the swarm of bodies poured out. Shot these pics when I was done and leaving, the swell had already gone down a couple feet but you can still see the quality of the day… Some rides are still lingering in my mind… Some of the best waves I ever got on a SUP board…
My weapon… 9’-1 and full of FUN!
The Jetty from way back when. C.B. Can’t name names because I haven’t earned the right. I’m a newbie(11 years) to the area. Mike
Pickleweed Point. Surfed it today. So smooth. Magic board still has the energy in it from Big Sur.
You guys are awesome!