Sup y’all. First of all thank you to everyone who has ever contributed knowledge to this forum. I have been shaping and glassing for a year now (12 boards) and though i just became a member today, I have benefited greatly from this website over the past year.
ok so here’s the deal. i have shaped a dozen twin fins from 5’2’’ - 6’4’’ so far and i have given them all a fairly standard fin placement wether it was glass on’s or FCS 2 boxes:
rear base at 6-8" up from the tail, 1/4" toe-in, 5 degree cant.
I’ve been pretty pscyhed on how all the boards have ridden so i still have had no reason to altar anything in regards to fins. on my most recent board however i must have just made a stupid mathematical error while measuring and it turned out that i made the toe-in 1/2" accidentally instead of my usual 1/4". i didn’t realize my error until after i finished sanding the board and i put the fins in the boxes to take some photos of it and i thought “gee that toe-in looks a little more drastic than the others”
Unfortunetly, the waves have been flat and i’ve been too busy at work to get this thing out in the surf and i’ve been super anxious about wether or not its going to destroy the ride.
Iv only got one board under my belt, about to get started on the second. And have never ridden a twin (only fin set up i havnt ridden and want to try one). So i have no input.
But i will say that is a great looking board and when i make myself a twin, it’ll be along the same lines. Nice work regardless of mathematical error.
Give it a go as-is. If it doesnt track as well as you’d like, some creative fin mods might help. If you feel like taking on making your own fins, maybe a fat ‘double foil’ kind of thing? Some offset tabs might be configured to straighten out the upper portion of the fins relative to the boxes - as in lining up the foil overlapping the outside edge of the front tab and lining up the trailing edge with the inside of the trailing plug? 1/2" toe-in is a lot though. With some careful routing a new plug install would be hardly noticeable - just an 1/8" alternating direction on the front and rear plugs would give you about 1/4" toe instead of 1/2" - roughly speaking.
Hi Jesse. Cool, uniquie looking board. You can route out the boxes and do them over, but I think routers are gnarly and can tear your d…k off routing out that plastic unless you have the right set up. I’ve glassed over boxes then glassed on fins on my garage shapes. No problem. Mike
So my question would be; Does the “toe” cross up at the nose? In other words; If you put a straight edge on the inside of the fin that runs all the way to the nose; Does it come out to the inside or the far side of the stringer? If the two fins are toed in so that the toe meets at the stringer or crosses over to the far side of the stringer; Your board will be a “Dog”. Looks like they are crossed up to me. The old original Twins from the late 60’s & 70’s were double foiled and no Toe or Cant. Not saying that was best. Just saying that was the beginning.
So interestingly enough, they seem to meet just at the tip of nose and not cross up with the stringer. I am using a 6’ level to check this as I don’t own a more flexible straight edge e.i. straight edge ruler or aluminum flat stock so I’m still essentially eyeballing where the line meets at the nose because of the rocker it’s hard to get it exact.
Late 60’s & 70’’s I shaped a few boards. But eventually went to work in construction and made such good $$$ I could buy a board from any shaper. So I laid off of it until the early 90’s and then started in again. On the very first board with side bites that I did, I crossed up the fins. I had never placed multiple fins on a board and there was no Swaylocks. I rode the board and knew that it had problems. Later that year a glasser at a Pro Glass Shop gave me a tutorial and set me straight. So live and learn. That board is really cool looking and you did a great job. With the right fin set up I am sure it would be a two finned rocket. The guys are right about the sharp points and the leash loop though. They are a bit of a hazard whether a kook or not. You can’t control how a board comes back at you when it hits the end of your leash.
If you used the actual tip of the board at the nose/stringer and toed in 1/4” the fin would most likely be “over toed”. Extending the length of the board 2 inches relatxes the toe at the same 1/4” .
No need to be sorry or offended. Just stating the obvious. If you start with a 6’0 and extend it to an imaginary 6’2 using the 6’2 as your point of reference for “Toe”; You have relaxed the Toe.
…hi McDing, what you mentioned could be miss read by future readers. I mean, you say 1/4 toe in and the point of the nose. That s not possible; only in one given board; in all the others to obtain 1/4 toe in the supposed line should be outside the tip of the nose.
So you cannot trace and imaginary line from the tip to a 1/4 toe in.
I am referring to this sentence: “if you used the actual tip of the board at the nose/stringer and toed in 1/4” the…” as mentioned, only possible with one board, all the others if some one wants to “join” or obtain that 1/4 toe in should point out not to the tip. You cannot toe in 1/4 for the tip of the nose because the line will not pass for the very tip, just that; it will pass outside the very tip of the nose.
