The second paragraph I believe Haavard is stating, he is a Hobbiest and all the varibles of 4wfs is more than he requires. Sorry for interrupting.
…or he might actually mean that the 4wfs has an advantage for hobby builders as the hardest part (at least for many hobby builders) is to know at what position and angle to put the fins, and not to attach the fins to the board ;-).
Personally I think the adjustability is good for everyone and above all for the user since the board works in a wider range of conditions.
anyway, we try our best to deliver anywhere in the world.
We are committed to increasing our distribution world-wide so that we can service even more directly our ever-increasing client base that is interested in our technology.
We now have a distribution centre in Oz (gold Coast) + New Zealand (Christchurch) + USA (California) + Canada + Uruguay + SA and potentially some various European distributors who want to join the program…
So all in all, were not doing to bad, “Rome wasn’t built in day” …as the saying goes…
nevertheless, we will endeavour to sort our clients out, wherever they are or want to go to…
As a new addict to compsand board making I went with 4wfs for the adjustability on my first four boards and am stoked. The rep in California was very responsive. The price point can not be beat (including the install kit/template). The amount of variation I can get out of each board by adjusting the toe in/out is amazing. I set the centerline of the rail fins at 2" off the nose. I would liken the adjustment to tightening and loosening skateboard trucks.
I made a 6-4, 8-0 gunish, 8-0 mini tanker, and a 10-0 SUP. All are 4wfs except the sup center fin.
When I had technical questions on the install, Dean was quick to respond on his thoughts. The rep was coming through Oahu a while back and was supposed to drop off some differing cant inserts to try, but it apparently didn’t work out, this was the only disappointment.
“The rep was coming through Oahu a while back and was supposed to drop off some differing cant inserts to try, but it apparently didn’t work out, this was the only disappointment.”
Nick, yes we did not deliver w.r.t the new 2 degree and 6 degree cant inter-disc options, we have been very focussed on our new CNC-milled Fibreglass and Hex-lite fin range based on demand that we put the new disc moulds on hold. I will be doing the final R&D testing on our prototypes in the comming months (taken way longer than expected…but hey, that’s life…) i may send u some sneak previews as soon as they come out, so keep in touch…
Thank you for the support and your comments, much appreciated.
The second paragraph I believe Haavard is stating, he is a Hobbiest and all the varibles of 4wfs is more than he requires. Sorry for interrupting. :-)</blockquote></div>
Hi Larry,
you got me wrong. What I meant was as for me as a hobbyist with the potential to screw up toe in, splay and lengthwise position, the more of these I can adjust after installation the better as I can potentially fix my screw ups without having to remove the fin box altogether. Hope I made some sense this time around.
Great day Dean, Thanks for the feedback. I look forward to the new fin options and follow on inter-disks. Today I had my 8-0 gunnish board at leftovers on Oahu. It was overhead but not double to triple that the board is really designed for and a bit mushy. I blew it on the initial rail fin alignment relative to the rocker and nose. Your systems adjustability saved my session. By increasing the toe 3/16 the board came to life in the smallish surf.
In addition to the guides on the inserts, I sharpie penned the initiail line up, max toe out/in. This really helps when trying to adjust the rail fin symmetry while in the line up.
I ended up with almost 1/2 inch of total adjustment (a longer base fin will add, a shorter base fin will minus) You may want to capture that on your website where you speak only in degrees. Most of the folks working (me included) on their first boards know only 1/8 to 1/4 of “toe.” Again thanks for all the help and a great system.
I’d like the whole thing a lot better if they were white
black for colored boards
since you asked
I know there are functionality reasons to color code the inserts, but I’d prefer white with discreet labeling–and the HD inserts are all right for a homebuilt, but I wouldnt do them. I’d drill my own, fill with pour foam, and paint them white
Futures are the best looking, possibly tied with or followed by LokBox, everyone else tied for third
I know there are functionality reasons to color code the inserts, but I’d prefer white with discreet labeling–and the HD inserts are all right for a homebuilt, but I wouldnt do them. I’d drill my own, fill with pour foam, and paint them white
Futures are the best looking, possibly tied with or followed by LokBox, everyone else tied for third
If aesthetics count for anything…
point taken, but we have colour coded so that surfers know what splay angle they are using, since we offer splay options unlike most, the problem is we can’t make everything for everyone…
regarding the HD foam inserts, if u want to paint them white you can, nothing stopping you…
however, your assertion about futures looking the best… personally i think they look terrible!
but hey, that’s opinions we all have one and nobody is wrong there…
aesthetics count but if u VALUE functionality then not as much…
What other interdiscs will be available other than the blue 0 and yellow 4 degree? Also, any reason the oval box is still pictured on the website? Are they still available?
Currently the 2 deg and 4 deg is all we have, i am finalizing an exclusive range of cnc milled alternate interdiscs for those out there that really want to try new things.
The oval box is still available, it was our first release but it required a 2 stage cut with a router and th eidustry seemed to think it was heavy so we trimmed it down and did the new circular mould that the industry accepted and liked.
Thanks Dean, but your answers beg for more questions…
What color are the 2 degree interdiscs? Also, as a hobbyist, I don’t mind the extra router cut for the oval box. Is the oval box a stronger installation?
Any word on when the newer interdiscs will be available?
One more thing. Do you have a technical drawing of your fin tabs/bases with measurements? I was thinking of making some fins to fit 4wfs. The tabs seem to taper a little front and back, and have what looks like a score line and countersink hole on each side…
