Hi, I came across this bing with a colored resin pull abstract in the gloss coat I thought looked really cool. I have this old yellowed out Frye I restored and want to try doing this to it. Seems like you just mix up a few different colors of gloss and paint it on thin, and let it flow out smooth. Going to attempt something like this color in the pic of the other pintail with a foam stain (yes also a Frye) Any tips I’m missing? Thanks
Pretty tough to pull that off & make it look good, IMO. Since you mention the board has already been restored, why decide to do this now? Just curious why you want to add color now?
Yeah not something I would suggest. You will be disappointed and ruin an otherwise classic shape. The patina of a well used Skip Frye shape is beautiful in itself. And all that sloppy looking resin pigment won’t make it go any faster. Bet that board could tell a few stories. Respect it, don’t trash it.
Well it was never glossed, it’s just a sanded finish. I was thinking some color in gloss would give it a neat look with still keeping it original looking, not a big fan of airbrushing these boards, looks hoaky to me.
Well of course it’s your board & you’re welcome to treat it as you please. But no professional board maker that I know of waits til the gloss coat to add color, cuz it generally doesn’t look good.
Color is usually added by painting the foam before glassing, or adding pigment or tint to the laminating resin.
Most likely your board was glossed when it was made, but it lost its shine over the years.
Any color added to a gloss coat now will appear thin and washed out, and the old yellowed and dinged appearance will still be obvious.
Adding color to a gloss coat “is” hoaky. As Huck said; It’s your board. Hoke it up if you must
You guys don’t think the color on that bing looks cool??
Beginning in the ‘‘Balsa Era’’, the first ‘‘abstract’’ I saw was in 1956, and it was very similar to your Bing. Most abstracts were done on the bottom only. Not all, but most. The color, or colors were always in the gloss coat, taped off at mid rail. I had Ronald Patterson do a three color bottom abstract on my board in 1958, to hide the damage caused by a trip into the rocks at WindanSea. Red base coat, with blue and white blended in. Abstracts faded out by 1960 or 1961, giving way to solid stripes or panels. What you propose, in a broad sense, is era correct. Not ‘‘hoakey’’ in any respect. Release your inner Jackson Pollock. Go for it.
Thanks Bill, you get it! So any tips on how to do this? Thinking it’s pretty straight forward, Just mix the tint into the gloss and paint it on thin, let it flow out right ?
Th process, for an excellent result, is more complex than you might imagine. Where are you located? Send me a PM with a phone number, and best time to call. When we talk, be prepared to take notes, and I’ll walk you through the prep, and application. Timeing plays an important role, in the quality of the finished work.
IMO the skip frye with no color is the best looking board in that first post. I mean, it has color, to my eye - the patina of age, sun, and use! I don’t think the others look good at all, but to each their own. For the record, saying an airbrushed board is hoakey is just as incorrect as saying a tinted gloss coat is hoakey, but again, to each their own. Maybe you can post up some pics of the finished product, and change my mind. Until then, this is my story and I’m sticking to it.
I agree Huck. Balsa it’s not. I have seen a couple of pigmented swirl Balsa and always wonderd why anyone would do that to a Balsa. And No, I don’t think the abstract Bing looks cool. Just personal taste. I had a friend in Pacific Beach that got most of his boards from Frye in the 80’s. He still shaped those pointy single fins thru the 80’s
Seriously guys my Frye is really beat. Lots of scars! I had pendo help me out with the deck. Lots of repairs , I think someone learned how to hotcoat on it a long time ago, I grinded it all off
I say “go for it” and be sure to post pics and let us know how much you like it.
Hi Mgcorrei; doing a gloss coat is only for the sealing of micro bubbles and finish but you need to really put fiberglass on those dings. I see that you relied on pure resin with aerosil and pigment. The repairs are done mostly based on fiberglass; the people that only do based on resin are doing the stuff wrong.
Hi Huck; that is EVA
Love the deck patch - this raises a lot of ??? in my mind…
Like where did you get it, how much did it cost, how is it attached, is it permanent, does it completely eliminate the need for wax, and finally, shouldn’t any resin work be completed before you apply the deck EVA???
I took it to Steve Pendarvis down here in San Diego. It’s called a Pendoflex. Not a bad option to give your delaminated boards a second life or better yet get a new one… they’re like a fiber flex skateboard on water . Check out pendo.com