No.
It’s not an aerosol.
It comes in a pour can , like paint or resin.
Actually I saw this along with the minwax stuff Dave talked about at HD yesterday
picked up both a pint and spray can version of the stuff to try out.
VARATHANE Diamond Spar Urethane
Take the toughness, clarity, and protection of our interior finish, add extra weatherability, and you have a beautiful way to showcase the outside of your home. Varathane® Diamond Spar Urethane Water-Based Finish provides maximum UV protection to guard your wood from the damaging effects of the sun. With our non-yellowing formula, Varathane keeps your wood looking great longer.
[indent]
Maximum UV protections
Superior clarity/Non-yellowing formula
Low odor
Easy soap and water clean-up
Fast drying[/indent]
That other stuff shown is UPOL in a spray can.
I also found some of that automotive clear coat and lacquer that Cleanlines used in his DVD at Checker.
Herb
Any difference between using a clear gloss spray on lacquer finish versus this other stuff?
I used Deft and it yellowed something terrible
WATCO Clear Lacquer Finish
This is quite simply the finest brushing and spraying lacquer available today. A crystal-clear, super durable finish (or sealer) that dries in 30 minutes and can be re-applied without having to sand. What could be easier? Available in quarts and 11.25 oz aerosols.
I also used this stuff which seemed to work better at filling and sealing over a hotcoat
Environmentally Friendly Water Based Finishes
From General, these finishes are the best water based finishes we have ever used. Formulated to resist foaming and prevent sags, they won’t run like ordinary water based finishes. Tack free dry time is only 15 minutes. Dry time between coats is 2-4 hours, so you can finish a project in short order.
High Performance Polyurethane, HP, contains all the characteristics of the Poly/Acrylic blend, but also a UV stabilizer to protect it from breaking down in sunlight. This is, without a doubt, the best water based polyurethane on the market today
Hi Oneula.
I used to use a product similar to the High Performance Polyurethane gloss, when I was working with my dad re-finishing antiques and doing antique color reproduction.
How does it come out on surfboards with regards to gloss (cosmetics), and durability? (does it bond wellto the sanded epoxy? hold up relatively well to use?..)
Ben,
Sprays are rarely warerbased. Even if they are: Aerosols use alot of either/or combos of,alcohol/butane/so.bi-carb or other petro-chems to propel,thin and to prevent premature gelling/thickening.
For this reason I steer clear of them.
As far as pour can stuff goes,I throw out the instructions, because it doesn’t apply to the way I use the waterbased PU.
Whatever you do don’t brush it on or you’ll end up with a thick,uneven,coat that takes …like…a year to dry.The reason for this is ,these products were made for wood application,and wood absorbs the oily contents of the product.
With surfies…it’s a different ballgame.
As far as Lacquer goes…looks great…lays down flat to the point of looking like a real gloss…until it gets tapped …then it starts chipping and delamming…not good.And to do repairs …lol…you have to strip off the entire coat…COMPLETELY !!!SUCKS DONUTS !!!
Acrylic… chemically bonds to polyester resin.
Polyurethane …chemically bonds to epoxy.
It’s not a complete pep-tide chain fusion,but a bond that will last if done correctly
I wish Sluggo would chime in here but he’s up at THE ZOO today(Malizoo that is)…he’s the chem expert.
Slugs is trying to get in as much surf as he can…lately…he …ahhh…well …let’s let him tell you/us in his own time.
His dice are rollin’ …like mine.Herb
Quote:
Is this the stuff:
Woody, I use the UPOL in the picture above. It bonds well, polishes out well, and its really tough… but bit expensive.
Hey Herb,
I just finished the glass job an
8’0" x 15.75" x 21.75" x 14.75" x 3.125" quad egg that Steve Colletta (Natural Curves) shaped for me. I’m pre6ty sure he shaped it from an Aussie Red blank. I did a blue foam tint and free lapped it with double 4oz. direct size E glass and put a 4oz. deck patch on it. It’s all sanded out to 320 and weighs just under 13lbs. I wamt to go with the water based ployeurathane finish coat that you mentioned above. The idea of clear coat bonding to the surface sounds a grand one to me.
Shall I just go to Orchard Supply and pick something up or is there a brand of choice mate?
No Worries, Rich
Is U-pol Clear #1 going on trouble free? A surfing, pro auto body man who has clear coated many boards told me auto clear coat goes on with mucho trouble with re-prep and re coats usually needed, every pinhole makes a fish eye. From the msds Upol looks like a different chemical than Dupont and PPG auto clear coats, any application problems with Upol?
I don’t know about the chemical mombo jumbo on the UPOL. I’ve been using it on boards for a few years now. It will make you a pretty board, it will make you a, “water tight like a ducks ass” board. It up to you to apply it properly and not get 1) over spray, 2) orange peal, 3) anything else that rattle can can do. But you can rub it out…its made to be rubbed out. And it will accept a high speed polish. (meaning, you can get a automotive shine) some of the other products mentioned above will smear and burn if you try to polish out. They just can’t take the heat.
I just sealed one the other day…and the board didn’t sink, blow up, or chase small children with a sharp knife.
If you want a truely speed finish, use Herb’s a la Future finish. Have you ever had blob of that stuff dry on a sanded finish board. If you have you know that you have to sand it off to remove it. Future is a good finish, and it easy, cheep, and fast. But it looks different than what you probably want.
Rich,
OSH will have it,I’m sure…HomeDepot will have the Behr stuff I use.
Just make sure it’s waterbased,much easier to use,brother.
On epoxy,PU bonds so well it will amaze you…then you’ll stick it in the drink and you’ll laugh yourself into a frenzy ,over the frictionless/effortless paddling/wavecatching.
Hope to see you at BigSur.Herb
I use Future for paints only now(sealing blanks or thinning paints for airbrushing).
I use either : Supercrylic from Smart & Final or Behr industral floor sealer to seal Polyester resin boards.
Note: Future is a better quality acrylic,but not as easy to use as a sealer.The supercrylic is much easier to use but doesn’t last as long…TTTYPPICCAL !
Future is a great sealer…but as Rez said,put it on it light even coats…and the main thing you want to watch is drying time.MAKE SURE IT’S COMPLETELY DRY before adding more coats!!! okay?
Herb, On the water based urethane. I’ve just had the unfortunate experience of fogging a portion of an epoxy gloss coat by having moisture inside a plastic board wrap overnight, so I’m wonderng if the water based uretrhane might do the same fog out of the fresh resin coats?
Yo Herb,
UDAMAN!
I found the stuff at the Sherwin William paint store (waterborne, clear, gloss). Got a quart for $15.00. I took the board by for Steve to look at. Thankfully he was pleased. Among other things we talked about the hardness of the rails around the tail of the board. I had keep the integrity of the shape of the foam as close as I could. He said it would be a good idea to put a speed bead on it in the last 14" or so of the tail. He said it’ll give the board better release that it would transition better. So I’ve done that and after it’s feathered into the rest of the bottom contour I’ll lay the urethane down. I planing on taking a nice long strip of an old tee-shirt and dragging it end to end on the board. I suspect thin coats are the call. Whatdayathink, 3 - 4 coats? I’m wondering how long to wait between application of these finish coats. Will I be able to polish once it’s cured overnite?
I measured the board today. the nose is just under 17" and the mid-point is just und 22". I’m very please with the board weight. That Resin Research epoxy makes for a hell of light, solid glass job.
No Worries, Rich
P.S. ---- working on a non invasive fishin’ set-up for my 12’ Lance Carson. Gonna use a stand up paddle and put and trick out a way to rig a kid’s float ring on the paddle hancle then sandwich the blade end between layers of packing rubber dead center in the board. I’m hoping to be able to just sit on it side saddle and have it stablized. Halibut sounds like a great idea for dinner.
Thanks resinhead,
I’d heard a lot of speak on the forum about using two pak polyurethane.
After a trip to the paint store I found plenty of urethan varnishes most of which where for internal use only, then a few urethane yatch/spar varnishes, uv protection, clear, but none said if they were water based, have to brush on, may aswell do an epoxy or poly gloss coat.
I’m just glad I saw Herbs thead on not using acrylic on epoxy.
Its hard to find equivalent brands to U.S products over here in the UK but I remembered talk of the Upol rattle cans saying they were good and an internet search turned it up fairly cheap compared to the acrylics so I think I’ll give that a go.
Woody, Did you notice u-pol.com is a UK company? You might have many options for purchase. I’ll be trying it also on Resinhead’s comments, and i want to try Herb’s hardware store water based polyurethane to feel the super slick. This thread cleared up a lot confusion I was having on top coats.
Herb, how do you apply the water based polyurethane ? Roller?
Hey Greg,
How are the fins goin’ mate?
I finished out my 8’0" PU/Epoxy today.
Here’s how it went:
The board was sanded to 220 when I started.
I worked directly sun, probably a bad idea but I wanted to see how how fast the stuff would work in max - fast drying condtions. It was light breeze and about 75 degrees out. The first coats was attempted by dragging a rag end to end on the board. Didn’t work well. Next coat was applyed with the stuff cut 50% with a rag but it still didn’t go to well. Next coat was brushed on with material thinned 50%. It left brush strokes of course, but at least I had a nice full coating and enough material on it to work with. For the record I let the board cure about 15 mins. between coats.
I then left it for 3 hours outside in the shade to cure. If I had it to do over again I’d thin the material about 60 to 70 % and apply it with a 4 inch wide sponge brush. I suppose a real finely napped roller would work too but I think by using diagonal strokes there would be much less uneven areas to work down. As long as the strokes are overlapped while the material is still wet there should be little build up there.
I sanded starting with 220 to get the brush strokes out quickly. The material filled dry paper much more quickly than I would have liked dry. So I just wet sanded with a soft block by hand. It didn’t take long at all. I followed with 400 and because the material was kind of soft that went very quickly. I polished and put a couple coats of wax on it. It ain’t ploy mind you but it’s nice and smooth and quite shinny.
If I can figure out how to post some photos big enough to worth the trouble I’ll do it. Maybe if I send ‘em to you attached via Email Greg you’ll have a record and some ideas for a rippin’ quad egg for the right coast.
No Worries, Rich
yeah 2 pacs work great hey
im using Ameron clear 2pac
its brushable so i thin it about 15% then brush it on thick
i prep the surface with alcyhol wiper down
then i put the board under a cover to prevent fallout
then onto the 180 then 240 then 400
it easier rub down off the spray gun and sometime i get a pretty good gloss off he gun
but the vapours and spray everywhere totally gives me the shits
so i brush it
A piece of old tee-shirt or a soft foam sponge.
If it fogs,it’s to thick and didn’t dry completely under the surface.
Rich, hey. Sounds like a little experimentation made the difference. Yeah, email the pics and I’ll upload to photo bucket and post them for you. I’d love to see the board.
Herb, thx. Great stuff. I’ve been spraying on the acrylic but I’m told a foam roller might work too. I’ll let you know. thx for the tips.