V-No other information other than what’s in the papers. It looks like the original author may have presented the information as tail rocker=0.
vincentv if you have the bottom flat , stop sanding . move on. you are constantly making the board thinner and you don’t have enough board to fuck around with . stop sanding .
Stopped sanding and have been looking on how to make the rail band marks. What did you think about the video i posted on marking rail bands?
vincentv that is not what I would have recommended for you to watch , but it is basically correct and if you understand it , then it’s ok , it is certainly easier to see someone doing something than it is having someone try to explain it ,
vincentv , in the video the guy measured in 1 1/2 inches for his first railband , dont do that , I think your board is too thin to start there , use 1 inch in from rail .
vincentv , where are you located in this world we all inhabit ?
Im from begium
Where thr fuck is begium , do you mean Belgium in Europe , who have a very good football team .
hahahaha yes Belgium in Europe. Shitty waves and good beer.
Today i’m going to tackle the rails. I will do all measurements and draw the lines. Praying for enough volume on the sides of the deck.
Update on rail band marks:
Made a line 3/8 around the board on the rail up from the bottom of the board and another one 3/8 in on the bottom of the board. Tapered the line on rail from 3/8 to 0 meeting the bottom of the rail at 20" from the tip of the tail which is more or less 4"more to the tail then 1/3th of the board.
Made a line 1/2" in on the deck of the board at the tail section. The point where those 2 lines meet is about 1" in from the crack, as seen on the pictures below.
Now looking at the line that will be the bottom of shaping the deck rails.
Looking into some information i picked up that often the board is divided in 3 parts for deck rails. 1st/ nose part being 50/50 rails, middle part being 60/40 rails and tail part i don’t really understand yet.
If i run a line 1/2 up of the 3/8 line like gbzausa explained this will be result in 2.22cm or 7/8inch in total which is aprox 40% of the thickness i have to work with. So perfect for the 60/40 rails, right?
Now one foot in at the nose i have a thickness of 4cm or 1 37/64 inch so meaning that the line will be to high up. Closing in on the nose the thickness go’s down to 3cm or 1 3/16 inch as the thinest point. So if my logic mind is getting this right i have to taper the line going from 7/8 down to 50% of the thickness of the nose part.
Questions; 1) how is the tail part of the deck shaped? Also 60/40 like the middle?
2) Am i on the right path with my explanation on making rail marks for the nose?
3) Why should i go in 1" on the first rail mark on the deck and not 2" like on the video’s i posted earlier? Is it for keeping the most volume or does it change the way the board will ride?
Vincentv the answer is no , you are over complicating this , stop .
Mark the bottom of the board with a line 3/8 in all the way round the board , stop
Mark the rail with a line 3/8 up from the bottom of the board all the way around the board , stop
Find the center of the board 69 in = 34 1/2in taper the 3/8 line from the center to the tail to 0in on both sides of the board , stop
In the fish crack start at deepest part and taper the 3/8 line to 0 at the fish tail , stop
Start at the nose of the board and draw a line 1/2 in above the 3/8 line , you will have a total of 7/8 in , follow the 3/8 line along the rail when you get to the center point follow the line as it tapers to 0 at the tail it will be 1/2 in , do this on both sides and the fish crack , stop
The line that is 7/8 in is the line you do not cross do not sand below this line , imagine that if you cross this line a madman will enter the room and cut off your dick , got it . stop
On the top deck of the board draw a line 1in in from the rail all the way around the board , not more than 1in , then as you saw in the video sand off the wood from that 1in line down to the 7/8 line when you get to the center of the board sand down the tapered line to 1/2 in , do the same in the fish crack , stop
You should now have three flat surfaces , the bottom , the rails , the first rail band , stop
Hi Vincentv -
Re: #3 - Yes, the 1" mark is to keep the top portion of the rail more ‘full.’ As mentioned, you are approaching your final thickness and it might be better to maintain the thickness that is still there.
Re: tail shaping. I don’t have any numbers. I don’t shape that way. Hopefully this photo might help you figure something out. It is a photo of my first fish.
Just take a hack saw blade with a little handle on it (wrap some duct tape if nothing else) and cut a bevel on top of the inside rail on either side. The trickiest part is when you get to the ‘butt crack’ - cutting the bevel in there requires you to cut only to the midline from either side - no more and no less. With some careful cutting you meet from each side and have a kind of slot on the deck where the two inside rails connect. A rat tail file or rounded rasp might help to smooth it out in there. A search for ‘shaping butt crack’ might bring up some old tips on that. Glassing them are fun too.
vincentv if you do not understand this please do not remove any wood until you do , I realize that there is a long time difference between us but if you rush you will not be able to correct it .
Thank you for the pic JM
I get what you are saying. I will post some pictures in one hour.
Just this question; doesn’t the 3/8 line has to meet 0 before the end of the tail? Giving a hard edge starting just before where fins would be placed later on.
Thanks JM and great picture!
vincentv , I presume that you are going to glass this board , if the answer is no tell me now , if yes then draw the 3/8 line to 0 at the fish tail , the hard edge will be taken care of when glassing
I will be glassing this board yes. I will follow your lead. Out of curiousity, how will this be taken care of later when glassing?
