Deck:
vincentv , pic 1 nose pic 2 nose right pic 4 nose left , the right hand side looks to much thicker than the left ,this is what I suspected , you will have to be very carefull when sanding to stay inside the lines so it can be equalized as you proceed . pic 7 tail , it should be 7/8 in in the deepest part out to 1/2 at the points , after you sand the first rail band you will have 1/2 in flat rail at the fish points .
sorry vincentv I should have said pic 6 , not pic 7 .
pic 7 shows the rail with 1/2 in rail , that 1/2 in line should go around to the fish crack and up to 7/8 at deepest part of fish crack .
vincentv when glassing you cannot glass a hard edge , you will have to round off the edge a little , when the board has been glassed and fill coated you can come back and make edges as hard and as far up the board as you want , I will explain how to do that if we ever get that far .
Ready for sanding it down. Any recomendation on which one to do first? Bottom or deck rail…
Man this part is scary!!
I want to do it right and don’t fuck up…
So here i go. I make a flat edge from the 1" line on the deck straight to the highest line on the rail… RIGHT???
vincentv , what the fuck are you doing at 9pm at night sanding a surfboard , I looked on the internet its freezing in belgium , go home its xmas day tomorrow give it a break , merry xmas by the way .
yes start at the front on the top deck , from the 1in line to the top rail line , do NOT sand anything on the bottom
Hi Vincentv - In post #60, photo #1 please take a look. I realize you’re working on the rails and I would just like to offer the suggestion of using a long block with coarse sandpaper when shaping along the top line (crown) of the rail. This is a common place to introduce warbles and they can be difficult to straighten out once introduced. As mentioned earlier, Agave is an inconsistent material so it takes extra effort to maintain the lines of the shape. With this material, as well as balsa or foam, a shaper has to take control and direct the tool. Try not to just follow the material with the tool and let the material control the shape. With a sharp eye, you can focus on the high spots and shave those down to finalize a clean flowing line. Famous Swaylocks guy Jim Phillips showed in his Damascus Productions Video the use of a long ‘spatula-like’ shaping tool with which he is able to focus from the end of the board and reach way down the length of the board to knock down a high spot. Sorry - I don’t have a picture of that tool but the concept should be pretty clear. I.E. train your eyes to spot any deviations from the line you want and force the tool to get the material how you want it. I hope that makes sense? I know that gbzausa and I both want you to be successful at this one so please take my comments as meant - only to be helpful, not critical.
Hey JM, indeed there is a very clear difference of thickness between left and right. That’s the result of me knocking wood of with the electric sander because i was impatient while i was actually in the process of flattening out the bottom couple of weeks ago.
I feel you on the density changes of the agave, experiencing it first hand here. I’m going to look up this guy jim Phillips and dig some more in the archives here.
I appreciate you guys help a million! It’s amazing to come here and be welcomed and helped so much.
Happy holidays everyone
Little update on the rails. I stayed away of the top rail line about 1/8 inch to keep room for error and to train my rail sanding skills.
Note, I didn’t put to much effort in getting a smooth flowing line, this is what came out by itself let’s say. Pretty confident i can get a very nice flowing line in there.
vincentv , glad to see that you stayed between the lines on the rail , please post more pics of the nose showing the thickness difference , and another of the rail where that big hole was ,
I am going out of town for awhile , hopefully another Sways member will guide on the next step . Aloha
Hi vincentv , I am traveling so this is my one time on Sways today , First I would like you to cut out that section of rail with the hole , it can not be shaped out when doing the rail bands , repeat the process that you used when you repaired the rail and then shape that section to match where you are now , Second I would like you to mark a centerline down the top deck from the fish crack to the tip of the nose , then mark down the board from the nose every 6 inches , use a square draw lines across the board , when you get to 36 in draw a line from the that point on the center line to each fish tail , these lines are meaningless they are just there for me to use as reference points when looking at your pics . Third draw a line 1in IN from the top rail band line band on the board all around the board and then draw another line 3/8 DOWN from the top rail band line , ( not the line you have just drawn but the line that you already had there ) you will then cut that rail band like you did on the first one do not over cut it , start at the fish tail and cut the rail band on both sides but ONLY up to the 36in line , so we are working ONLY on the back half of the board , this is not how I would normally do this but I would like you to post pics when you get to this point . carry on
Rail is fixed and lines are drawn.
@gbzausa; for the second rail band i marked a line in the middle of the first railband. What’s the reason to put it 3/8 down from the top of the first rail band? Is it not more important to keep it evenly flowing with the first rail band?
Now pictures;
Middle of the board came at 34.8 inch or 88.4cm. The lines drawn are every 5.8 inch or 14.73 cm which devides to nose part in 6 even parts.
I made a line 3/8 under the top line of the first rail band and worked my way up from the tail to the middle of the board 34.8inch.
I haven’t touched the other line on the rail that i made in the middle of the first rail band, not being sure which one to follow. This line you can see on the pictures.
