Seem to have been cursed atm when it comes to surf
The conditions have been just terrible
either no swell or 20km onshore and unrideable
Exhibit A
pretty sunrise…but uninspiring apart from that
next time was a little better about waist high on the sets
the guy in the shot is the first company ive had in the mornings for a few months
guess im just lucky
it was a bit small for the board to plane properly
but i was surprised how easy it was to get into the wave
and it was feeling good
next try was at a left i havent surfed before
about chest high but a little bumpy
its about a 300m paddle
volcanic rock bottom and you have to paddle over a shallow reef of same rock
the wind changed the second i got out the back
no one else out, got very bumpy and nasty, windswell came up
I was stuck outside in the mess for about 40 minutes
as it was breaking right on the shallow reef with no other way back in Eventually i got a a chance to get back in,
paddle back to dry land and back to the car…just as the wind swung offshore again and cleaned it all up
The weekend bought more swell and a chance at a decent surf
and as an added bonus my partner was on camera duties (couldnt get her up at 5:30am to do some weekday snaps)
it was about overhead to over and a half and to get out
so to get out i had to walk down the beach about 500m
paddle out 500m (board duckdivies great for its size) then another 500m back up towards the carpark about 50 minutes solid paddling
when i got back to where i needed to be
i realised i was way too far out for a shot
so i paddled in to the next sandbar for a better chance of a good shot.
waved to denise and lined up the next wave
caught the left…was a small one so only about chest high
board handled it great the drops feel so easy on this thing
rode the wave to the whitewater and came in
the current was so strong the only chance of getting out again was to repeat the walk right down the beach again
Up to denise…“did you get the shot??”
“um well…just as you took off the camera ran out of batteries”
So what in my dreams was going to be a fantastic shot of the auslocks board performing in vicco surf turned into
HAHAHA the only shot that got taken that day
But wait…It gets better
This week i took as holidays to go down the ocean road to Torquay ride the auslocks,take some nice pics
was planning to go Wed, camp for a few days see what happens
Flash forward to Tuesday evening…riding some onshore slop on a longboard
came off on a waist high closeout
BANG wore a very heavy longboard on my left calf
end result, ive been barely able to walk since tuesday evening
hopefully sunday/monday ill be ok to walk/surf again
and the auslocks misadventure can continue
seriously tough,i am enjoying the board and hope to get it into better surf real soon
and not to worry the only injury is to myself and my pride
the auslocks is still in fantastic condition
so there it is …a long rambling update that doesnt really say anything at all
hope you enjoyed