aloha im 38, 6'4" 250 lbs. live on oahu, been surfing 28 years with a couple gaps. i surf often and try to keep current with the sport and would like to think my surfing reflects that although i must admit i was at my best 15-20 years ago, basically before i filled out my frame and was alot lighter so i could ride small boards like in the 6' 3"-6' 5".range.
i spent years trying to ride boards that were too small, too thin, too narrow. not catching waves, getting in late and getting tossed etc. and not having much fun in the small stuff. so i finally ordered a 7'0" squash, 22" wide 3" thick with full rails. well ive been riding that thing awhile as my small wave daily driver and it paddles great but is a complete pig! and if the waves are juicy and steep it wants to slide out or refuses to bury the rail and wants to "cork" on me if that makes sense?
so... i was wondering if going much shorter... say 6'5" or 6'6" and wider... maybe 24" and 31/4" thick but the rails real pulled in... i guess the deck would have to be domed to achieve that? so that ive got volume under my cheast for paddling (paddling, catching waves a high priority) but can still bury the rail? low entry rocker? bottom contours and rockers are a bit of a mystery so please lay it on me! rails too! living in hawai'i the waves are juicy and every thing ive ever ridden with deep or extreme concaves etc sucked and only pushed water with the exception of 2 deep channel boards mark lidell made me long ago which were MAGIC! so my instinct is to go subtle rather than extreme.
any advice, guidance or maybe your own experiences in the battle to keep killing it in spite of some extra pounds would be totally appreciated. id like to be pretty sure of what i want when i order the board. the shaper is a guy i know and surf with from time to time. hes my height but probably 50 pounds lighter and rides little boards and always says i should be too. but i dont wanna go back to struggling to get into waves. id rather catch tons of waves and struggle with turning the board if i have to choose. hoping i can have both?
someone is working on a 6’6 x 23 x 3.50 for me at the moment
heavily crowned deck, thin(ner) rails
I’m 6’0 and 230lbs, 41 yrs, surfing east coast FL…generally weaker smaller surf from waist to head high+
I am no shaper, just a surfer, but at your height and weight I would think you could go 6’6 - 6’8 length with increased width and thickness and be fine in the surf you are surfing in, while keeping the rail thinner
imo, your location and waves there, you can go shorter and thinner with great results and be happy
presently riding a 7’0 x 22.25 x 3 1/16 lower rocker round tail quad by Christenson and it is working really well for my location for me…but my waves and your waves are totally different imo
very interested in hearing those more knowledgeable than myself as well on this subject
Warren
Edit: you might take a look at the thread titled “Thee Modern Fish Thread”… some very interesting concepts w photos on the “thick w thin rails” going on in that thread…Reverb and Mike D., these two have some great stuff to share…both make beautiful boards imo
@ lankameese: encouraging! thanks warren! ill be checkin out the modern fish thread for sure!
ive got some good friends there.in florida on both coasts actually, and i lived up in tallahassee for awhile. boy you guys have some incredible fishing out there! best ive seen or experienced! did alot of fishing in the gulf up around carrabelle, apalachicola, st. george island. and the crabbing, the shrimp..... the oysters.... fond memories.
I have made lots of boards for bigger guys. I know from experience that a bigger guy on the right board can work. The mistake most guys make is trying to go too small and not being able to “use” their size. 38 yrs old you still think you are young. So 6’8" 23" wide 3’’ - 3-1/2" wider tail, 17 1/2" carry thickness through tail.
If you really want to keep wave catching a priority 7’ to 7’3" will work.
I was told to go back to my box because I rode/ride boards bigger than 5’4" to 5’7" and over 2 1/2" in the modern fish section so good luck with those sizes.
I was told to go back to my box because I rode/ride boards bigger than 5'4" to 5'7" and over 2 1/2" in the modern fish section so good luck with those sizes.
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OK, I'm hoping you know that little joke was stricty tongue-in-cheek. I ride boards in the 7-9' range myself, being well on the downside of that proverbial hill. My point was really just that your thinking is outside the box, and not everyone can appreciate that.
^ the original guys making fish wouldn’t shape them over 5’10"unless the guy was huge, which 6’4" 250 is.
I am the opposite end of the weight spectrum, so I can’t really give to much advice on dims but the 6’8" with extra width, thickness and thinner rails sounds about right. You could try a thumb tail too to make the board roll over to rail easier.
I have made lots of boards for bigger guys. I know from experience that a bigger guy on the right board can work. The mistake most guys make is trying to go too small and not being able to "use" their size. 38 yrs old you still think you are young. So 6'8" 23" wide 3'' - 3-1/2" wider tail, 17 1/2" carry thickness through tail.
If you really want to keep wave catching a priority 7' to 7'3" will work.
I was told to go back to my box because I rode/ride boards bigger than 5'4" to 5'7" and over 2 1/2" in the modern fish section so good luck with those sizes.
Here is a video of a big guy on some of my shapes. http://youtu.be/b-hw6zSvyuc
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thanks for that ace. yeah im actually already riding a 7'0" 23" wide, 3" thick with full rails and dont like it! hard to turn, breaks free in the pocket when you need it to drive. "corks" and wants to stay flat when i try to bury the rail.
so my thought was go shorter and make up the volume in width and thickness under the cheast. like 6'6" 24" wide 3 3/8 thick? when i say 24" wide i see alarm in peoples eyes. is there an unwritten rule im breaking here? am i mistaken to think i can re-0distribute volume in such a way as to obtain a much looser drivy board while maintaining the paddling performance? i figure shorten the legth will make it easier to make quick tight turns in the pocket and blast it straight up 12 oclock instead of wasting speed on a long drawn out bottom turn neccesary to bring my 7'0" around.what if, just for example i went 6'4" by 26" wide? at what point do i begin to achieve diminishing returns? im sorry im still with the numbers but they provide a layman like me a language with which i can express my idea so that others may comprehend and so in the end, i may then convey this concept accurately to the shaper so that he can make the board i want. numbers matter because if i go, "bra, just... make em kinda thick wide and short". his idea of these surely will not be mine.
Ok making a thicker board NOT do what is normally negatively associated with thick boards is tricky. I put some pretty good V in the tail with panels to work off of. Helps the board roll up on edge for bottom turns. Than you gotta have the right rail shape when you are on “edge” . I “dome” the decks and put some slight convex in the bottom which "hides’’ the thickness and makes the rails more ‘’ normal’'.
I make and ride 24" wide boards I like em. BUT in bigger waves it can get a little trickier. Depends on the wave. Easy in behind the peak slide and glide no problem BIG NASTY BUMPY is where it gets interesting. Also the real wide tails that helped you get in nice easy early get going really fast. 17 1/2" to 18" work nice a little overhead and under. 17" to 16" handle bigger better.
FINS pay a major part in making wider boards work.
Not a lot of shapers understand what they can get away with with excess foam. Most shapers I know are much shorter and lighter than me.
I try and give the boards a “inflated” look , except the flat V panels . Something I got from Eckstrom.
It is a whole lot of elements that when combined right make a real nice riding easy wave catching fun surfboard. Not necessarily a “wiggle butt” one move board. I leave that to the hard to catch waves sitting chest deep in the inside for that one “sick” move “high performance” something to prove crowd. Choice is yours.
naw, im with you bradda ace! this s**t is gold! ive got pintails galore for when the waves get bigger so shes not gonna have to hold much bigger than 4'. hey i just noticed you live in san diego. you know jeff morris from encinitas? surfs swamis and D street alot? or toby finnegan? trevor nielson? brother RAT (dont know his actual name.) he shapes some great boards from what my buddy tells me. eh in fact i heard you guys have been getting some decent surf? saw pics of D-street last week throwing hollow.
anyway i so appreciate you taking time to help a brother. times are tough financially and i cant order too many boards so need the ones i do order to count! so when you say fins matter a great deal, how so? i was planning to go five fin to allow me the most options although i always end up in thruster configuration.
I’m around 180 and surf a 6’er that is about 37 liters of volume and its a good wave catching volume for me with tons of maneuverability.All of my personal shapes are designed around the volume # that works for me.I did some math,37 liters divided by 180 pounds=.2055555.I multiply that by your 250 pounds and get 51.38 liters.I then take your dimensions into consideration and design a board around a volume that may work for you.Heres a quick file to give you an idea for a starting point.
Jesus, I do the same, but I also add in the amount of planning area of the board as another criterian. I figure I can ride and catch with any board that has 40 liters and about 8 sqft of area. Sorry to mix my units. Less than 8 sqft and I will bog down on East Coast beach break.
