I am restoring an old longboard that is now brownish bc of the UV exposure. 15 or so years old board. I am still working on dings, cracks, etc. I was debating whether or not to repaint the board; one to hide the patches, etc. and most importantly, to go back to the original white colored longboard for old memories. I am repairing this for my girlfriend and the board was given to her by an older sister.
I checked out some websites and saw a couple of options (at least seem to me). one is to use the surfboard paint that i could simply paint brush onto the sanded board. another is to use resin tints and mix them with laminating resin. I supposed lam resin + tint will cost more $ and possibly add more weight to the board bc of the added laminating resin.
Do you have any suggestion on what i should do if i decide to sand the board after the repairs and to repaint the board white?
Also, I am ok with fixing dings, etc. I have never done nose repairs tho. Do people use some sort of molding when filling the repair on the bottom and side of the nose? i guess i can do multiple smaller repairs on side and bottom of nose separately. I was thinking to rip off the broken figerglass and fill the side and bottom with lamResin + Qcell, but my concern is the filler will not resemble the shape of the nose. (will try to hopefully post some pics in the middle of the week to better clarify this issue…)
Any feedback is appreciated! Much Mahalo!
I can’t wait to get the board water tight and get her the favorite old longboard back.
If you intend to add a FIBERGLASS LAYER wetted with tinted resin, laminating resin is OK. But if your plan was to add just resin with tint in it, you should use sanding resin or gloss resin, then sand it lightly, then add a clear gloss coat.
For repairs on the rails, nose, tail, just lay out some masking tape so as to shape a kind of mold for resin. Another option is to use silica in your resin (is that Q-cell?), it will prevent it from flowing. Anyhow, you will have to sand it back to nose shape when cured, then add some fiberglass, then some sanding resin, then sand again (and some gloss coat if you want to do things really good).
Thanks Balsa. will be finishing the nose repair this week… i’ll be mixing some qcell to better shape the nose…
now i have some idea on how to repaint the board and i do have sanding and laminating resins available. will look for coloring materials soon.
I checked out the local shop’s website, Fiberglass HI. looks like they carry translucent tints, opaque pigments, and dyes. Any suggestions on which one I should get to mix with my UV activated sanding resin?? from other posts, it’s suggested to not use UV activated resin bc some pigments may block off the UV curing process. I simply want to color the board white; any whites… simply brush the board white and apply clear gloss coat or sanding resin. If I really have to go out to buy a small amount of resin + catalyst, i’ll do that…but if i can just use what i have bought, i’d rather do that. Much mahalo for your suggestions!
If weight wasn't a big concern, you could tape off the stringer and lam/logo, Paint the board in an off white consistent with the color of PU foam. I used to use "Swiss coffee" flat acrylic latex. Laminate a layer of four oz. cloth both sides, entire board. Hotcoat, sand, gloss and polish. Four oz gives it the depth you need to make it look original and doesn't add that much weight. You're not going to be that happy with a tint or opaque color job. That is if you are trying to make it look like the original clear white foam board. Be sure to finish of every ding repaired with a patch of 4 oz. hotcoated and sanded. Whatever method you use to finish the board make sure you sand the entire board and it all feels the same texture wize.
Thanks McDing. As i’m reading through your feedback…i’m visualizing a white surftech looking board; not the same old local motion longboard from mid80s. appreciate the technical feedback. you’re correct, an extra fiberglass layer over the paint will bring that original white back. it’s a 9’4.hopefully, it wont add too much weight if i do paint and get another 4oz fiberglass on it.
i guess i should finish up on the nose and tail repair…sand, fiberglass, and hotcoat…and get it in the water to see how it feels (weight, manueverability, etc)before getting into this more challenging attempt… will post the repair updates… thanks for all great help! Much Aloha!
Howzit alohasurf, Don't use tint because it won't cover the brown,use opaque pigment for a better covering. Plus resin will add weight where paint won't. I would try a off white like McDing suggested or Krlon's paint made for painting plastic. If you do paint the board do a clear coat over it to protect the paint. Aloha,Kokua
Re-reading your original post; I am thinking that a board no older that this doesn't warrant the kind of restoration that I originally spoke of. On second thought I would say just patch it up as light as posslble and ride it. Still possibly shaped by Charie Smith though. An extremly underappreciated surfer and shaper from the early "70's and "80's North Shore Hawaii. Now living on Maui. Lowel
Aloha Kokua! Mahalo for the comments and suggestions. would white opaque pigment + UV sanding resin work ok? I heard that adding pigment to UV resin may not be a good idea? bc of the UV exposure (or lack of it).
just did the nose today… close now to getting the board water tight and hopefully try it out this wknd. maybe after that, i’ll do the paint… Much mahalo again for everyone’s suggestion!
Charlie achieved Legendary status at Alii Beach in Haleiwa during the mid to late 70’s. I have been out there many times when he pulled off some of the most incredible surfing. My good friend roomed with him for a while in Haleiwa when he was trying to make it as a pro.
He made great boards too, but switched to windsurfing in the 80’s, and some guys said it messed up his regular board shaping. I don’t know since I never had one of his boards. Charlie was insane at big Alii, so powerful and just fearless. He led the way for the Foster brothers and Kerry Terukina.
Mahalo for the feedback McDing. Yes, currently working on the nose…Q-cell and laminating it, trying to restore it light.
you’re right. everyone who looks at it thinks that i should just get a new board… it’s more on the sentimental value… and plus, would be cool to have a board that still has the classic design.
Howzit alohasurf, I don't know where you heard about not using catalyst with pigmented resin but you have to add some since UV with pigment won't set up because the UV rays can't penetrate the opaque pigmented resin. There have been many posts concerning that subject and the concensus is you have to add a little catalyst at least. Aloha,Kokua
If by chance you decided you wanted a board exactly like the one you have I am absolutly sure that if you contacted Dave Gott at Gott Glassing, Pauwela Cannery, Haiku, Maui. He could easily set you up with Charlie to duplicate the shape you have. It was my obversation after seeing many of Charlie's boards in the years that I lived on Maui that he obviously kept meticulous records and could easily duplicate anything he had shaped in years previous.
What type of retailers sell epoxy spray paint. I don't think I've ever seen it and I also have a fish I'm restoring. Mike
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Lowes sells an appliance epoxy I have used after a major repair (board broke in half) on a GSI (like surftech) surfboard. I didn't gloss coat over it, but should have. I was just tired of working on the board at that point, so I called it good.
Damn near any hardware store, I would think. I get mine from a local mom and pop owned True Value store, and also from local lumber yards. Stuff works great for covering uglies, and you can always touch up scrapes if you don’t do a clear coat. Great for cosmetic rehab of beaters. I think Krylon makes an epoxy line. Pretty common stuff.
Much mahalo Kokua and Sammy on the paint suggestion. Looks like it makes sense to just use the epoxy paint and cover it up!
It will have to wait…bc i tried to glass the tail and nose over the weekend; nice weather and all…combination of lack of experience and rushing made the fiberglassing job turned out bad. some bubbles and section that not fully covered with resin. Looks like I’ll have to sand again and rework the glassing work… just wondering, do i have to glass the entire tail or nose with one big piece of fiberglass? or i can work on one side at a time?
Also, covering repairs with two layers of 4oz fiberglass…is this an ok thing to do? or simply one layer of 4oz fiberglass + lam resin + sanding resin will be enough…
Much mahalo again those who gave such great feedback! Aloha, K
Hozit alohasurf, I would use t least 2 layers of glass especialy with 4oz. As for the bubbles I wouldn't worry to much especially if they are going to be painted over and you just need to make it waterproof. Aloha,Kokua
appreciate the technical feedback. you’re correct, an extra fiberglass layer over the paint will bring that original white back. it’s a 9’4.hopefully, it wont add too much weight if i do paint and get another 4oz fiberglass on it.
