Like George says, it’s all about volume distribution. In hand shaping, that speaks to the outline, which is about 3rd on the list of critical factors and doesn’t get the attention that rocker and fin setups do. It’s easy to define volume distribution for something that’s on flat water; Joe Bark and the kayak guys have pretty much wrung that out. However, for a board on a wave face it’s a much different problem because only a diagonal portion is engaged, the board isn’t perpendicular to the face, and the degree of diagonal engagement will vary; all axes are constantly changing. When average riders get heavier and/or lose paddling ability, they usually go to thicker boards and try and keep the same outline. It’s now easier for them to get more waves even though the ride isn’t as good, so they tell the shaper the thicker board works great. Truth is that just 1/2" more in width would have done the same for paddling and the handling would have been better. In my opinion, rocker and general outline are key factors for the type of wave the board will be used in, but volume distribution is tuned to the rider. As George mentioned about the waterline level, it’s more specifically total displacement of rider + board. To change that easily, all you have to do is go from poly to eps but you’ll also trade off manuevering that a lower riding board will give (unless thickness is reduced). A board planing too high doesn’t fully engage the rail shape, fins, or to an extent the bottom contours. Planing too low and you’ll need to design it as a submarine.
[t]here is a 'tradeoff' / price to pay , for me...
Personally , I would LOVE to be able to 'paddle' [?semi-underwater ? ] a , say , 5'11 x 19" x 2 1/4" "high performance " thruster into head high and [slightly] bigger hollow waves.
.... the issue is ....
my low performance BACK !!
After ? maybe ? twenty minutes ? of that , the pain encountered usually would make me head back to shore , in the past . [ I want to keep surfing till the day I die , if possible , so ....]
What do others here find , if / when they paddle low volume boards on a "good" day ? [ DO any of you here , in the 50s and over age bracket , still paddle low volume boards ?]
The [ ? " tradeoff " ?] options for me , as " hi ho , hi ho , into the 50s I go " , are....
1. go slightly wider
2. go slightly longer
3. go slightly thicker
4. pick any 2 from above , and combine them
5. pick all three , and combine them
Q:
HAVE you guys mostly 'arrived' , now , at an "optimum volume / dimensions combination " that works well for you , more OFTEN than not ? [ in waves like Ron mentioned in the original post ]
I remember stating in an old " your quiver" [or similar] thread , that confusion arose [for me] when all my boards were pretty much totally different to each other [no surprises there , eh ?! ...the same goes for fins , too, I guess ...]
As I said in one of the 'p.m's , Ron , the only near consistent dimensions in my present quiver are ....
[greater than ] > 19 1/2 " wide
and
> 2 3/8 " thick
....other than that ,
the lengths [5'8 to 9'4"] , the outlines , the rockers , the rails , the tail shapes [and thicknesses] .... even the bottoms .... all vary ! [not to mention ... the FIN SETUPS , of course !]
throw into the mix , waves that vary daily , and ...well.....[to be continued]
hi Huck !
Yes , I guess that I sort of have in my head , in answer to your statement that [we] " kinda have a 'feel' for the 'volume' [we like] / that works [for us] " ...
for me ?
... I reckon it is probably "around 6'2" - 6'4" x 19 1/2" - 20" x 2 3/8" " , [at the moment / this time of my surfing life .] ....
Rocker , rails , bottom contour[s] , fin setup[s] ..... negotiable !
For " good" [rare , here !] , " hollow waves in the headhigh range" , I prefer pins , rounded pins , or fairly narrow rounded squares , out of the boards I have ridden in recent years .
Thanks , Ron , this is a really interesting thread for me , at least ...
I 'p.m.'ed bill BARNFIELD ...he's very busy shaping , coming into the busy north shore season soon I guess . But he DID say he would look into this thread , in time ...so , it will be interesting to read his take on it .
Oneula ,
shark county
other hawaiians ?
it would be very interesting to hear YOUR take[s] on this subject too, of course , because , apart from indo and tahiti and islands I guess you get the powerful and consistent swells most often , to test it all out , eh ! ['Art' , your earlier Hawaiian comments were noted , and interesting !]
cheers !
ben
Wider, thicker, and a little longer takes off very late, in control, if the rider is used to it.
Comes down to rider skill, and what he's used to riding, wave wise.
Happens most pro surfers ride chips, so you think they are best for late takeoffs. No, they are ridden by the best surfers.