I wanted to see if any of you guys would help me out with what bottom contours wuld fit this shape. belly/hull?
any tips will be considered, also with this comes fin setup, i guess. My initial plan was single finned. but im open to ideas.
so its 6’3, 17.5, 21(center of board), 17
also to me it looks like i need to thin out the nose area more?
thanks for looking
nicholas
aaargghhh whywhywhy do the photos almost always go sideways?
ill post them again one by one
1
2
Bonzer 5
SLIGHT roll to mild V put in one box play with a couple style fins not to big not to small get that dialed in make another after what worked best…KISS and learn the basics
Based on the profile, it looks too late do do a hull as you have to work that in with the foiling and bottom rocker. I like Ace’s rolled or dome V in front of a single fin box going to flat behind the fin. When you flatten out the bottom behind the fin it will put a little kick in the tail rocker…hope you have enough thickness back there for that.
As an alternative you could flatten the rocker in the center of the board by cutting a concave that flattens out behind the fin. You don’t say how thick the board is so it may be too late for that if you don’t have enough foam.
You can go flat with soft rails to let you roll it up.
I wouldn’t thin the nose too much; maybe 6 inches back from the nose you could blend a little subtle S deck cut…
Regardless, you have foiled so much that anything you do should be really subtle or you’ll mess it up. I really like the outline…
what have you got in the bottom at this point?
I will really help.
Thanks ace, LeeV and Yorky. Bottom is flat all the way as of now. I still have some thickness to play with.
Think im around 2.7" now. I can go under 2.5 for this width and lenght. roll-v-flat sounds like a plan. Lee-
the outline was made using a 5’5 Lis template and doing numerous tracings, until i was happy. Thanks I
appreciate the input.
Whats your thoughts Yorky? Id still like to hear it.
The rocker looks to have a nice curve under front foot, so the rocker should surf shorter and climb up the face nicely, bit slower on face maybe, quicker piviting.
The outline is very tail orientated (nice). giving tight drive off the bottom.
I’m just a hack but…
It looks to me like it would like to pivit turn (stop and drop) off the top especially if it was to be a single fin. Nothing wrong with that at all…
It’s my guess If you want more projection out of your rail carve turn, side fins might be a good ieda (giving you the ‘thrust’ feel.
It doesn’t look like a thruster, and doesn’t really look like a 3 fin bonzer (althought i’m no expert) The 3 fin bonzer, you know with the long side fins, may well just look like with that middle rail rocker, it might be a bit sticky/tracky.
4 half moon bonzer fins (promoting water flow) and a small/mediam size single fin in a box.
Slight concave under front foot leading into slight double fron 1/4 back.
Keep your foam.
…But really who am I kidding, all I can see is a couple of pic on my computer,
I din’t think you have much room to play with vee,
nose is thin, tail is thinish.
With that rail rocker a nice vee/rolled vee halfway through to tail sounds great. but cause its all flat now + that rail line rocker ???
could have a crack at vee 
all the best, hope to hear/see what up decide.
cheers
cheers Yorky, but i went the roll to vee way this morning.
I also beeked the nose more. Had just about enough thickness in the back to vee it out.
LeeV, I just could not get around to understand the vee to flat. I could not project it and
how that could look/work. would there not be a ‘bump’ where it goes from vee to flat.
I mean those changes happen over such a short distance, if you know what Im saying.
I chickened out on doing it.
here are some photos of my hacking
nicholas
Thats a lot of V! Anyhoo…you just feather the V to flat behind the fin. But with that much V, you would have made too abrupt a transition. Generally, that much V off the tail will make the board a little tracky…it’ll get up on a rail but it will want to stay there. Try it, you might like it. If it does feel really stiff, put a couple of side bites on it and that will give you a pivot point and it’ll loosen right up. Be prepared to try a bunch of different fins and fin positions. They’ll make a huge difference.
If you want to hullify your next version, move the thickest point up towards the nose a good foot or so when you rough foil. Flatten out the rocker in the middle of the board. Then put 1/4" deep convex under the thickest point and gently ease it to flat at the tail. Pinch the rails for the full effect. The better the wave, the more the pinch. The more lined up the wave, the deeper you can make the hull (to a point anyway).
we might be able to see the rocker better if you shot your next pics bottom up, then the rail tuck shaddow won’t throw things out.
Lee sound like he knows his stuff, go for the flat out the tail.
kepp it up cheers
So side bites it is. I think I “see” it now (the flat out the tail). My issue as far as fins go, is I have no router or fin jigs. Ordering from the US has gotten
really expensive with shipping. So up until now Ive only done glass ons. Hence the fish making. I should be able to make my
own jig for a bahne box though. I can get the Makita router here. Would it be enough to use single plugs (fcs) for the side bites?
Or would they come out too easily? Thank you for the help and info.
N
A bahne box (the long one) is almost mandatory for a single fin unless you really know where the fin goes. You don’t really need all the fancy tools. A sharp chisel and patience will work just fine. Try it as a single for a while, try different fins and slide the fin around in the box…you should be able to feel the difference a quarter inch (0.5 cm) makes. The little fcs plugs will work or you can just glass on the side bites. Ideally you would start with two types of fins; narrow base flex fin and a wider base bonzer center fin. It can get expensive unless you have access to used fins. But you can also sell them pretty easily if they don’t work out. People forget how important fins are to a board’s performance.
Thinking of a hotwire device, if I can shape the wire that is, to make the box hole. ? its eps so a chisel might knock out more whole beads
than cutting. Left alot of fins in SD when we moved back to Norway. My friend was supposed to keep them for me, I should ask him if he
still got them. I like making fins but so far glass ons, its another thing to make them with tabs.
For hand cutting the boxes I’d use a Dremel tool and slowly follow the outline or knock together a wood template. The Dremel is easy to control so you are less likely to have a oops! than with a big router.
Soldering iron if you’re stuck on burning a hole, but too easy to jag it.
Although tracky, the coolest thing about that kind of vee is that you cut through chop and don’t even feel it. 
For the single fin box, make a jig out of plywood and include an insert for the smaller box. If you use 3/4 ply, you can make the first pass at 1/2" and then the full pass at 1".
