Ive had a really good solution from the shaper so have decided to remove the post
ThankyOu for the replies
It’s a mess up on the manufacturer’s part and they should take care of it. Fixing it to “make it right” really won’t hurt the integrity of the board if done properly. He really should only need to correct one fin box. That said, the right thing to do is give you a new one.
Fixing it won’t hurt the board at all. You might see a halo around the fin plug that was shifted.
I’d be happy that they are fixing it. Lots of board makers would leave you hanging.
If you were supposed to get five fin plugs and only got three and two of those are wrong , ask for your money back and go find someone that knows what they are doing .
you could probably ride the board and never notice. but yeah it should be right from the get go. probably a computer shape screw up
You did not get what was advertised or what you paid for. As suggested, get your money back and go somewhere else.
If you used a credit card (CC), call your CC company and file a dispute.
So just had an update from the owner. He has agreed to shape a new board and courier it to me for no extra cost. I’m happy with this outcome although I have a three week wait again for a board
If that were mine and I thought it would make any difference I might just alter the inside foil of the straighter fin… I.E. you’ve probably heard of “70/30” or “80/20” foil ratios on which the leading edge gets tweaked a little bit. Just shave that inside leading edge a bit and make it more of a symmetric foil. In light of some of the purposely built asymmetricals and how they reportedly ride, I can’t imagine that your fin plug issue is worth worrying much about. Who knows, it might even be to your advantage.
Say thank you , dont bad mouth him , go surfing .
‘‘WHO KNOWS, IT MIGHT EVEN BE TO YOUR ADVANTAGE.’’
John,
As you well know, more than one ‘‘advancement’’ in surfboard design, was the result of a ‘‘happy accident.’’ The law of unintended/unimagined consequences at work.
Internet orders…LOL If I were the manufacturer, I would send you the correct board and check it before it went out, but that’s me. If it were a bro deal, I would accept a fix and just chalk it up to a rush. By the way, if you want to understand how fins are marked, put a 4.5” base fin in the box/plugs. Measure from the rear of the fin to the stringer/centerline of the board. Measure from the front of the fin base to the stringer. Toe should be 1/8” – 3/16” if the board is under 7’. Both boxes/plugs should measure the same. Just my 2c……
Thats a pretty big factory that made that board with some top notch guys…
Sometimes shit happens. That happens in LITERALLY every factory in the world.
What shouldn’t happen is… it gets past the 4-5 guys AFTER the fin guy.
I see miss-matched toe-ins in shops all the time, from all the big glassers in CA and the East Coast.
Hell… when they first came out, tons of shops were putting in the FCS2 plugs backwards…
They made it right though and thats whats important.
Response to Surfteach…
That’s exactly how I do it. I have had problems though with side boxes shifting inside the routed holes - like a tad thicker resin seam on one side than the other resulting in unintended toe-in asymmetry. Using dummy fins I carefully check the toe-in once I set them in to the resin filled holes just to make sure.
…this is the exact example that is not “just a surfboard” “is only a surfboard” “go surfing” or like that.
For that shaper/factory or for me, people that live from this labor; is a very important factor because is a product. You need to put more hours (when you are one man operation) is a bit stressing; more when the orders are complicated; exclusive and expensive.
So give me a break with these stupid sentences.
you , as well as several others on here sound like you are confusing toe in with CANT.
Save probox and FCS x-2 all the other fins there should be 0 play in your toe in.
No - I know the difference between Toe-in and Cant. I was just saying that with most any installation of a box/plug in a routed hole that there may be room for some shifting and that one should be careful after installing before the resin cures.
Specifically I have had it happen with the old FCS plugs with which the toe-in was somewhat dependent on alignment between front and rear plugs that front or rear plugs were not centered in the routed hole after resin cured… My mistake and one which I have tried not to repeat.
Hi Reverb - As we all know, there are elements of ‘tolerance’ which face all designers of any product. If I am making bearings that must fit a specific part, I’d say the tolerance would have to be extremely close… possibly measured in terms of thousandths of an inch. With a hand-made item like a surfboard, with a pretty well defined price point of $1000 or less, how close does it have to be? Are we supposed to pull out a micrometer?
I had a board come back from a well known glasser once with the Futures Boxes set behind my pencil dot on the rail. I sold the board for a reduced price and made sure the buyer knew and understood the screw up. A couple of years later he told me that board was his “Go-to” board. Go figure. Unintended consequences.
If you look close enough on this one (by a well known contract glassing place) you’ll see the resin seam along the sides of the plugs have some variability. Not sure if the plug holes were drilled exactly spot on or if the plugs shifted in the holes as the resin cured. No big deal either way but if someone wanted to get their panties wadded up over 1/16" or whatever… there it is.
https://swaylocks7stage.s3.us-east-2.amazonaws.com/s3fs-public/2+1.jpg
…hi John, I was trying to say that many of us are behind a product so is not “just a surfboards”. For us is important because we live from that if not more customers or a bad rap in an small environment…well, no more food on the table.
Regarding that plug; that s no problem; that s happens a lot, due to many things (like, the stringer is not so perfect aligned; plug template variations, change of the fin angle, change of the cant, knock off plugs and shigs, slightly movement of the router, compensate for a bad outline in one side, etc) so to try to suits better sometimes results that way, but most of the times that not necessary indicates that the toe in is wrong.