took a bunch of pics from last week did this one, a step up for me
PUPE 6’4 x 18-1/4 x 2-1/2 flat bottom forward 1/3 rd with rolled vee panels to the rear
farked up sleeping at the wheel, drew the fin templates on the bamboo panel, DOH!?
Footballs looking good.
ha you’re killing me Greg! 
inspirational as usual. love that outline, super clean
just curious, why did you choose glass-ons for this one?
man looking good! laniakea speed machine!
Interesting bottom contours going on there Bud. What’s it all about?
Your boards, as always look kine!
Bud! Exemplary backyard work as always. In some ways it doesn't surprise me, though. You're just carrying on a NS tradition of great boards coming out of unlikely-looking places, lol.
A guy here used to make fins out of 1/4'' white pine, grain oriented just as you cut the bamboo. No glass on them, templates slightly undersized. We'd run a bead up rope up the leading and trailing edges of fins during glass-on (in between the side footballs), not for the timid because it's a lot of ''parts'' to put in place and manage as resin kicks. You have to pay particular attention to keeping trail edge straight. Final fin outline done in sanding process, leaving halo around wood. Still about the lightest glass-on I've ever seen.
OK, now for a slight criticism: I think you should have foiled more meat out of the back of those fins.
THANKS MIKE!
You’re right I probably should have thinned them out some more in the wood foiling stage … stoked to report that the board works great though! I put a couple sessions - about 7 hours on it so far in DOH+ Haleiwa and Jockos and if waves permit this quad will get a lot more water time.
A vid clip of my home made bamboo fins in action! That’s me on a 5’6’ twinny I made last month, shot by a friend day before Thanksgiving, fun day of north shore surf
click this you tube link http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y5OVvhaYBYU
Pull tape and then lay your hotcoat using the leftover lam resin in the cup. Set out to bake
Grind the resin dam almost flush with the 4-1/2" grinder 50grit. Finish sand with the Milwaukee sander & 6" pad again. This board for me so I just went with a fast 150, 220, 320 then quick rub out with a bit of polish
Done ready to surf
Backyarder Warning. Used my phone camera so pics are worse than usual
Done a bunch of these and this is how I do it.
Decided to modify this board I made back in Feb. It’s a 5’9 x 18-1/2 x 2-1/4 LokBox thruster that works like it should but didn’t get much water time because of my taste for twin fins. I used it twice and then while stacking boards it fell off the top wall rack in my garage, huge rail crack and busted about 2 inches off the nose. I finally got around to repairing it a couple weeks ago.
Added two (LokBox MicroBox) fin boxes to give it a quad option, see how it goes. I use the same method for FCS fusion or Futures. Took about 2 hours using UV cure (not including the few hours to wait for the resin used to paste in the boxes to cure enough).
After marking up the desired location, I punch through the dots with an awl, then darken the holes by shoving a sharp pencil into them
Next I take my football template and draw it out for reference
Tape it up just outside the line to keep things neat, less work later
Remove the hotcoat to expose weave using Milwaukee sander with 6" medium FlexPad and 80 grit paper.
Re-draw the lines connecting the dots and rout your box holes
Paste in the boxes, set cant
Cut football patches and laminate. I used 4oz S-cloth. Don’t forget to tape rail skirts. Set out to bake a few minutes
Bigtime props Bud, great threads!
I’m now using a piece of 1x1 carpet for my router and sander
Steve
Bud, as usual, amazing work. On this last quad, any pics of the nose repair? I know it was a small break, but did you just reglue/reglass it back on?
I was scouring the archives last night for just such a thread as we have here, then this a.m. eureka! Thanks for bringing it back to the forefront. I’m moving towards the first lamination of my chambered (bastard wood selection) shape and am curious about the final layer. Is the side opposite the coverage typically masked around the periphery to prevent carry over to that side? Thanks and best regards. Chris