Build thread - 7.2 bonzer and 7.6 midlength glider

I always enjoy reading build-threads and always appreciate when people share their process.
Going through sk8ments fish thread this morning reminded me, I could share what I´m building at the moment.
Nothing fancy or extraordinary, but anyhow….

I´m working on a 7.2 bonzer and a 7.6 midlength glider kind of thing.
Both boards for me. I´m only at board 15 by now. Landlocked and not many surfers round here. Let alone any shapers. So more or less messing around without a clue. Any feedback and advise on the shapes or the working process is highly appreciated.

First board is an Bonzer 5 with round pintail.
As I fly across Europe on vacations, I had to use FCS plugs to remove all the fins for travelling.
I´d preferred glass-on runners, but was scared they would not survive aircargo.

Hotwired the EPS blank and trued everything up.
Took my time to figure out the fin layout.
Most dimension can be found and I tried to scale pictures of bonzer boards in the 7.0-7.4 range.
Never done or ridden a bonzer, I´m curious if my layout will work out.

(My EPS blocks are 2m / 6.7 long, so that´s why there is an ugly yellow PU glue line in the tail. I used white pigmented epoxy for the 7.6 glider lateron)

I decided to keep the bottom contours simple with my first try.
Skipped the channel between the runners, would have been hard to pass it between the fusion plugs.

The outline is smooth and eggish, with the wide point slightly forward.
Something like 7.2 x 21.25 or 21.5 I think.

The second board is a 7.6 glider, singlefin pintail. I´ve never ridden or shaped something like this, but the classic beauty of those outlines made me want something like this in my quiver.

As I´m hard on decks/center stringers , I built my shorter boards stringerless.
No hard structures where my legs are, this way dents don´t cause any cracks.
For this longer one I tried a parabolic stringer glue up. Stringers should be outside from where my thigs dent the deck.

This is my first stringer glue up. I remembered Barry Snyder doing outlines with a long router.
So I bought a 80mm cutter for my router, made a masonite template for the stringer curve (basically just a radius of 7500mm).
No room for errors with that scary long cutter, but I took my time and the cut came out really cool.
I bought slightly foaming PU glue, which was a fast setting 5 minutes version.
Prepared everything in advance, but in the end I couldn´t completely avoid making a mess.

After trueing the blank, I was quite pleased how the stringers came out.
Far from a good glue up, but didn´t look as messy as I thought directly after the glue up.

Shaping a stringered blank was new to me. But I enjoyed it a lot. Taking down the woods adds a new aspect to the handshaping.
As expected, the sections where the stringers pierce through the rails need a lot of practice to get right.
The glue stays a little flexible and is hard to take down with the handplane. Maybe I´ll use something harder next time, like gorilla glue or titebond.
I´ll need a lot of practice working with the handplane. And I only got a cheap 5€ handplane right now.
But I´m keen to do other stringered blanks in the future and ordered a better mini handplane, read about how to sharpen the blades and so on.

This is what it looked when roughed out, I thinned the nose and the tail lateron on and refined it over all.

A bit of panel V in the nose, single concave in the middle, double concave in front of the fin, flat behind the fin.
I chined/beveled the rails, quite high in the front, maybe like 40/60 in the middle, hard edge/down rail in the tail. Rails are “eggish”, not to boxy, not thinned and sharp like with displacement hulls.

In the meantime I glassed the bonzer and spackled the glider.
Both are drying in the living room now.

So far both boards are looking good. Keep posting up on your progress.

Very nice Michael! Between you and Mataco posting build threads I really want to try out parabolic stringers.
You can add universal pigment (not paint) to PU glue, to either hide or bring attention to the line, or look for a type that is more clear to start to dry to a lighter color.
Is it a bother to have to convert units feet-inches-fractions to m-cm-mm?
I finally bought a tape measure with both inches and cm so I don’t have to do calculations for windsurf equipment.

I’d suggest just a touch more overlap of the small runners with the big ones. Move the fronts back 1/2 inch.

Thank you for the comments.

JRandy:
Good hint with the pigment in the glue. I always liked the effect.
Need to get another glue. The one I bought is clear (which I liked, in case I would colour it), but much to thick. It´s more like silicone than the usual honey consistency. I kicks in 5 minutes, which was barely enough to squeegee it on the one side of the wood, spray a little water on it (for foaming), press the wood on the inner foam piece, sqeeqee it on the other side of the wood, spray water and attach the outer rail EPS and get the clamps on.
Next time I would like to try something more fluid and with more time to work and mix some pigments in it.

Converting iches / cm:
I actually think in inches when building boards. Length, width, even when I shape depth of concaves and V and so on. My brain says “1/4 concave” and then I look on the scale of my electric planer and hate the tool for only telling me the cutting depth in mm.
When someone asks me how long one of my boards is in cm, or how deep the concave is, I have to convert it in my mind. Takes some fragments of a second till the old “computer” between my ears starts, but I think it´s good way to keep it working smooth. :wink:
As I only track dimensions down to 1/8 of an inch, everything ist quite easy to convert for me.

Keithmelville:
The Bonzer is already glassed with the plugs under the glas. I did the deck fillcoat 10 Minutes ago, so I can´t flip it over at the moment.
Tomorrow I will put the runners in and take a picture how/if they overlap.
I used this scetch which I found here in the swaylocks forum:


Layed out the fcs runner and marked where the fusion plugs have to be placed.

After your hint I took a closer look at all the pictures of Bonzer5 runners. As you say, they seem to overlap about 1/2" (maybe 1/4more or less from board to board).
I hope my cluster is not spread to far. I´ll check that tomorrow. Thanks for the hint ! Good eyes.

I was concerned and took the runners and went into the basement.
Managed to stick them into the plugs without touching the wet fillcoat on the deck.

They overlap. What do you guys think, is this okay ?
(Same rail, pictures from both sides)
I have never seen a bonzer in real life, but estimating from pictures I´m maybe lucky and not to far off.


Looks in the ballpark to me. Get the correct center fin too. I like a 7" for that length bonzer but 6.5 would work too. True Ames makes a nice bonzer template center fin, if you google it you should see the template. Then there is some placement fine tuning relative to the runners, but that’s what the box is for. You will like this board when you get it dialed in!

Yes, I´ve saved the 6.5 and 7.0 templates and already put them in my CAD.
And I´ve read the advice how to get the center fin in the right spot and how it will feel to far forward/back.

I consider getting a true ames fin from the US to germany. No bonzer fins to find here, only some hand shaped fins from spain and france.
But they are more expensive than the true ames and not the original ones.

But was not sure if I need a 6.5 or a 7.0.
I got two cheap 7.0 fins, that are not far off from the true ames bonzer template (little less base, little more rake).
I want to cut and foil them as close a I can to a 6.5 and a 7.0 and do some test surfs.
After that I´ll order a true ames fin.

I´d like to hear your mind on the fin setup for the 7.6 pintail glider.

I was thinking of 4+1. The quads just for the options and out of curiosity, I ride most of my 4+1 boards as a singlefin 90% of the time.

But I also think, why not try a twingle / duo setup instead.
Do you think this board would be a good choice for twingles ? (finbox, not glasson)
I thought a high volume midlength with quite moderate/flat rocker and that tailshape could work quite good.
But that´s just guessing.

Any advice on the layout ?
Distance from tail would be like a single ?
I think Bill once said both fins 2inch apart (center/center) for his twingle. Neal Purchase jr uses a wider distance, maybe like 5 inches.
My mind tells me Bill´s twingle is the way to go, because he does it for decades and if someone knows, then it´s him.
I´ve read the “you owe me a new surfboard” thread a few times and will read it again to not miss any information given there.

I sanded the bonzer, did some dark green pinlines and glossed the deck.

Looks great, keep em coming…

I decided to go for the 4+1 setup on the 7.6 glider.
I´ve routed two slots and glued wooden reinforcements for the finbox.
It´s maybe not necessary, but I do this with every singlefin-board just for peace of mind.
(the tape is just for keeping the blank clean, I´ll pull it when the resin gets tacky)

I was wondering how you were going to stabilize the center finbox in an EPS blank.

I’ve routed in paint stick stirrers for that reinforcement before.

Paint strrers would be a good idea.
Mine are to short, but I´ll keep that in mind.

The Bonzer is done.

Paint stirrers are easier to plane but the ply you used is surely stronger.

The ply planes quite easy, too.
This is the 7.6 glider.

planing finbox stringers from Michael Olop on Vimeo.

I tried my first multi colour bottom inlay on the 7.6 glider this evening.
I was scared it will get very muddy with epoxy. I just let the epoxy sit quite long and soak into the weave and the end it came out quite ok when I pulled the squeegee over the weave. Not a lot of mixing of the colours.

Hey MiWie, really interesting to come across your post. Ive been working on a template for a 7’2 Bonzer egg,so stoked to see what youve been doing. Might have a heap of questions for you if you have a little time to help out. Firstly though, how does it ride?

I haven´t ridden it yet.
Probably won´t until december, I´l take it with me on vacation to sotuh spain - Cadiz / El Palmar etc.

I´m landlocked, the nearest waves for me are small messy windswell waves in the northsea on the dutch coast.
I ride my stubbies and fishes there, not the bonzer.

My own thread came up on a search I just did.

And I realized I forgot to leave some ride impressions here.

I wrote this after a two week winter surftrip to south spain:

I´ve had a couple of session on the bonzer egg in Spain / El Palmar in december.

I´d say the best surf sessions I had so far, I´m absolutely in love with it.

(I´m a landlocked german guy, started surfing in my mid 30s, so take my desrciptions with a grain of salt. You hawaian/american/australian watermen would probably laugh your ass off, when you´d see me surfing. I´m quite a kook.)

It was a beachbreak, there were clean sets coming in with appr. 2-3ft oh, just slight offshore, waves had a good shape, medium steep (means no very steep, but steep enogh for some power).

The most obvious thing about the bonzer for me is, how much power and speed it handles through fast, drawn out bottom turns. I´ve never ridden a board that comes close to that sensation. Almost feels like generating speed throughout a turn. And I was really impressed with the hold this thick and big board has in the face.

I did a couple of backside takeoffs where I had to angle the takeoff quite strong and lean into it with some power to stay high in the upper 1/3 of the face. One hand on the rail, the other locking into the face, leaning all of my 6´4 / 215lbs into. This board did not slip at all. Instead it just built up speed. Quite a sensation with the vertical green wall in front of my eyes and a couple of shortboard noses on top of that wall pulling back. (The big board let me get into the waves nice and early.)

Then when it was time to open up and shoot down to the bottom and I thought “what to do now, I´ve never done a bottom turn at such a speed”. I leaned into it, the board went very easy into the bottom turn and I experienced a fast and carving sensation I got hooked on immediately.

Frontside bottom turns were similar. I just projected around sections that I thought I was not able to make. Carrying speed, no need to “pump” inbetween or struggling to keep going.

When the wave ran out / got flatter, the bonzer did not feel a lot different than other similar “speed-eggs” I´ve ridden.

The “afterburner” sensation needed some size and power in the wave.

I´m not a good surfer and I´m far from being a stylish surfer. Generally in sports I´m never the skilled/neat/artful guy. I´m the strong big guy, making up for his slowness with his power. I´m always looking a little clumsy.

I like the waves to be at least headhigh and I like carving turns. I need room and time on the shoulder for my cutbacks and turns.

Not doing any fancy or aggressive moves and I suck in belly high fast beachbreaks.

The bonzer egg seems to suit my surfing very very well.

There was a guy paddling over to me and telling me how cool my bottom turns looked.

I´ve never had someone saying my surfing look cool. So I guess either he lied or the bonzer made me look cool. :wink:

Long story short:

After that holiday with the bonzer egg I´ve built a kind of “Russ Short” inspired board and an Octafish/Alpha/Omega inspired board.

Bonzer addicted I guess.