Hi guys,
Can you cut lap Vector Net? If so, any tips or tricks?
I’ve seen it lapped over onto the deck and I would like to try it, but not sure how you would get a clean cut. Was thinking could wait for it to harden then sand down to tape line.
Appreciate any input,
cheers!
Haven’t tried it but I would think the best way would be just like a regular cut-lap. Use a sharp, new razor blade and cut before the resin is fully hardened. Sanding would be a bad idea, Vector Net (Aramid) fabrics fuzz up notoriously when sanded.
You won’t get anywhere with a razor blade or a Stanley Knife. Scissor cut while tacky and using the tape only as a guide to follow. Better have the right scissors too. Serrated made for Carbon Fabrics. Pull the tape and mash down as you go. No don’t sand it. It should always be under another fabric like a layer of four ounce. Easy to sand thru and damage.
Since it doesn’t unravel like a woven fabric, use a pattern to cut it first. Then lay it out and glass.
Yes. you can cut it with a good high quality razor blade. None of that Harbor freight shit.
We razor blade cut the vector daily.
Or you can cheat like Superbrand and paint your rails black and just make sure the vector doesnt overlap passed the black paint.
Razored. No pins needed. Just requested.
Thanks for the replies. Quality work there mate, that’s what I’m after! I have done the old painted rail trick in the past to hide it, but keen to get a better finish.
Here is a photo trail of my experience.
First off you need the right scissors
The vector net goes down first, yeah?
with a layer of glass over it the vector net wants to move around under the squeegee.
I have done a few opposing layer jobs and you can be creative.
Really hope this helps as,
I am still seeking a better solution.
Aloha!
Matty
I see what you are doing. You are completely wrapping deck and bottom with V–Net and then cutting a lap on the deck same as if you were wrapping any other glass cloth fabric??? I have done complete decks and deck patches. I cut with a razor or Stanley blade at the Apex of the rail. Usually when it has jelled or set and then Glass the bottom with a layer of cloth wrapping the rail onto the deck and over the Net. .Cutting jelled V-Net on raw foam is a problem. And whoever said it doesn’t fray doesn’t know what they are talking about. Scissor cut has worked best for me against foam. I don’t like the look of doubled wrapped V-Net rails. Painting the rail black is cosmetically a good Idea.
We just glass those as normal.
Bottom with vector
Wrap rails onto the deck. Flip and cutlap at about 90 percent cure press the laps and the overlaps.
Deck vector wraps to the deck apex. The bottom lam is tacky enough to hold the vector on the deck taught. 2 layers of glass for the deck.
Yadda yadda.
No issues cutting with a good razor. Since its gummy it generally takes a blade per side.
Good to know. I’ ve had no trouble using a razor blade at the Apex. Just not had luck cutting against foam.
Another V net issue while we’re all here! Anyone got a strategy for dealing with the raised bumps? I always try and sand them as flush as I can, but that ends up lighting up areas of the cloth. I was thinking of waiting for the first fill coat to tack cure, then doing another coat right over it, then sand as normal.
Please excuse the dry spots in the lam, I was a bit keen with the squeegee!
Looking good mate! That straight innegra net is the worst for fraying!
Bumps are one problem I have not had. Saturate it good, don’t overwork it and don’t over sand.
Where the resin sort of pools in between the crossing strands of the net, makes it really hard to get the whole surface smooth without getting close to the cloth as the sections inside the ‘X’ of the v net sit slightly lower! If that makes any sense.
I know that one well…
goddamn.
Have not had problems with puddling. I’ve done a few deck/tail patches now, but cut at the rail apex. I use a cardboard pattern to pre-cut the patch. I get it to lay down good and put 4 oz. over it. My problems are minor fraying at the cuts sometimes. Or-- Oversanding along the cuts at the hard edge on the tail. But those two minor problems are easily fixed with a Sharpie or a strand pulled out of a scrap and laid down to replace what I sanded thru.
I spray a light misting of hairspray over the laps or anywhere the net has been cut. No reaction or adhesion problems and keeps the strands together. Limits the dreaded frays and smudges as you lap the edges.
Try using a hard printers type roler to press the v-net into the foam after you have laid it down with 3m77 this helps get it a little flatter.
