Hi - I’m new to the forum but have been lurking for quite some time. I’m interested in shaping a foam board similar to a lifeguard surf rescue prone board. See attached image.
I have experience building wood surfboards and a wood stand up paddle board, but this will be my first foam shape job. I’m looking mostly for advice on an appropriate blank for shaping a board like this … I’m thinking a 10’6" to 11’6" board with a fairly flat bottom profile and relatively buoyant … Does this make sense? Am I on the right track?
Thanks for the reply. I should’ve mentioned that I live in Wisconsin … No foam suppliers around here that I can find, so probably will be shipping from online.
US blanks has long EPS paddleboard blanks that would work. I think Marko has them as well. I’d look at the catalogue and choose a blank with a flat rocker. Paddleboards have less rocker than surfboards. Some flat water paddleboards have no rocker.
You could use EPS block foam or XPS (Blue Dow or pink Owens-Corning). Only problem is that it is normally sold in 8’ lengths. Maybe a local supplier can get you a longer piece. I think you could find an EPS supplier that could get you a big enough block for much less than a Surfboard blank with shipping. Maybe look for a supplier of the foam they use to make floating docks.
Similar geographic situation here. Ended up getting a sheet of 6" x 48" x 96" EPS from a commercial building supply company (Brock and White). Cost was around 55$ (2012) and no shipping or minimum order. We made 2 boards out of ours, you could glue yours up to 12' and have a 4' piece left for testing tools or glassing.
Hey Lars. I built this board a few years ago. Always wanted to build a Prone/Knee paddler. I bought this blank from WNC Foam in San Diego. Contact Mike Jean, He’ll hook you up. Cost was about $100.00. They not only cut my rocker, but also cut the outline too.
Thanks for the replies. Very helpful. I am leaning towards searching building supply co’s around here while I feel out shipping prices on appropriate blanks… Nice to know it would be okay to glue up some EPS. That is a great looking board!
These are the type of boards I want to shape. I’m having trouble finding good rough dimensions to start with … I know I want it to be between 10.5 and 12 feet in length, probably around 20-22 inches wide … The thickness is really what I can’t figure out. I’d love to hear some of your thoughts … Even if you haven’t shaped prone boards, maybe your general knowledge would help me find a starting point… Here are a few more shots of boards I’m interested in. [img_assist|nid=1074644|title=Kracka1|desc=|link=none|align=left|width=100|height=67][img_assist|nid=1074645|title=Kracka2|desc=|link=none|align=left|width=100|height=66][img_assist|nid=1074646|title=Kracka3|desc=|link=none|align=left|width=100|height=67]
Barry, would you happen to have a file for that board you’d be willing to share for me to get an idea of the curves and rocker in that style board?
larsbland, the racing boards you’ve pictured are usually 10’6 x 19-20 x 6-8 inches depending on weight, and have a hullish entry into a flat bottom for stability. i’ve never shaped one, but i’ve owned and paddled plenty.
Pirate, I 'm sorry no files here. The only surfboard files I own are made of metal. I do have this template in my vast collection of templates. You are welcome to stop by anytime. I have this board still.You can copy it if that helps. I just shaped another one this week. (Handshaped).
Thanks for the nice comments on my paddle board. It is for our Windigo Surfboards sales rep.Shawn. He can’t wait to paddle that thing.
Lars, when I shape these, I kinda think boat hulls. Obviously, a deep “Vee” is fastest. However, a flatter bottom is more stable. I actually spend more time foiling the bottom upward. The deck is pretty much like doming a surfboard deck. Because the blank is a very thick one, I tend to cut some very large, wide rail bands.
The welled out deck I cut with my planer. Kinda like a longboard concave. These lower your centre of gravity and make it easier to knee paddle and dig deep into the water.
The nose is very rolled, with a slight “Vee” to cut through the water. It actually splits the water as it cuts through. Seems like the lifeguard versions have a wider tail block for stability.
Thanks, Barry. I’ve been working some with aku shaper and mostly just freehand on paper to get some ideas on her lines. The nose/water entry will be the tough part, I think. I’ve been working with some shapes on blanks I glued up with DOW insulation, which is giving me some practice as well.
Lars, this blank was pretty much dead flat when I cut it out.Not a lot of rocker. Not like you are gunna surf this thing. It is meant for speed and glide. Maybe 2" in nose, 1" in tail. Nose is kinda flipped and shaped a lot like the Bow of a boat. (to split the water). This board will be done this week. I’ll try to post more photo’s.
