Wake up at 4 am
Drive 1 hr North
Check a few breaks
Paddle out just before sun rise
The water is warm, its just my roomate, myself, and two locals for the 1st 1/2hr with plenty of chest high waves to share.
Then this old kook who thinks he is God comes out on a new glossy red 9’0 gun and drops in on me 4 times, breaking the steep waves everytime and leaving me in the mush. I think…maybe this dude is just a kook, so I let it slide, but the on the 5th time he goes again, I eyeball him and shake my head & he still paddles and drops in on me. I turn hard & try to get along side with him, but ate it because I dug too much of my rail into the steep face of the wave.
So I’m sitting out waiting for another set and this 250lb walrus paddles full throttle into my board…“Touch my board one more time and I’ll bust your fucking lip open!” he says.
-“What guy? Your dropping in on MY waves!”
“You have no respect!”
-“Respect?You were dropping in on my waves!”
He splashes me in the face and I push his board away…
“you have no respect”
-“What? you are dropping in on ME!”
-"Chill out, bro.
“NO, I’m not going to chill, and I’m not your bro! What are you doing out here? you have no respect”
-“I live here”
"yeah? my house is right there! You have no fucking respect.
Paddle your ass back in!"
-"I’m not going any where, dude. relax. were all here to have fun.
“I’m going to bust your fucking lip open! If you see me paddling DONT!”
-"Alright bro, I wont paddle for waves you’re going to snake me on.
He paddles off and starts yelling again.
“I know you want to LEARN how to surf, but this is not the place to do it! Have fun on your own time!”
-“Learn how to surf?! what are you talking about man? This is my time I got class in two hours!”
(I may not be a new school supper shredder, I’m a soul surfer on a 6’ 10lb trpple stringer single fin…but I have more style than this dude did)
he kind of stalks me for a bit, but ends up pearling on nearly every wave I saw him catch, while I caught one of the cleanist waves of my life…Nice bottom turn, fluid skate like pumping inbetween hitting the lip hard 3 or 4 times and faded out into an incompleted roundhouse…need to work on the fallowthrough still.
he ends up going in after about a 45 min session…most likley had some baby rabbits to drown…
Didn’t let it kill my stoke though!