epoxy dried tacky; what to do?

I am using RR with additive F. I guess i did not add the correct amount of hardner. After 10 hrs at 60 degree’s, it is still tacky. This is a pre hotcoat over pin lines that i was going to sand before doing the hot coat. Any suggestions? I dont have an oven.

You’ve got an “oh s#!t” on your hands. I’d hit it with another hotcoat and hope for the best, but I suppose you could bathe it in acetone and try to take as much off as possible.

The same thing happend to me the first time I used RR, but it was the lam coat. It seemed to never dry. I talking weeks! I applied a hot coat over it which dried but once sanded I hit the wet lam. It will eventually dry but not very hard!

“This is a pre hotcoat over pin lines that i was going to sand before doing the hot coat”???

Not sure I follow, were the pins done on the lam!!?? is that even possible? or are they on a sanded hotcoat and you mean your applying another layer of resin over ther top as with a gloss coat.

As its epoxy applying another coat over the top won’t work. before you do anything else put the board in the warmest place you can, for instance in a car or green house etc. give it another 24 hours and see it its set up. If not then you will have to gum up several sheets of sand paper to remove all the uncured resin, back down to the orginal hotcoat. This will mean you will need to redo the pin lines.

If your looking to seal them so they dont blead then brush on son future acrylic floor varnish, or a light spray of clear laycer.

Chillysurfer,

If you are pretty sure the mix was off start scraping. Probably can use a heat gun but be careful. Another coat will not make the tacky coat kick. I set the containers aside that I mixed the resin in and they can give you a clue if the batch was correct. Might want to investigate where you went wrong in the mix so it don’t happen again. If it was slow resin and a thin coat 60 degrees is not all that warm though so it could take some time. Anyway I feel for you.

regards,

Dave_D

I’ve been there. Not with RR, but with another product. I had to scrape it off. The best thing I found was an old flexible blade butcher knife that belonged to my grandpa for which I thank him and apologize for the abuse of a tool. Mike

Paging Greg Loehr

Make friends at a local auto body/paint shop with an oven?

Three guesses:

  1. wasn’t stirred enough (gotta stir the heck out of that stuff),

  2. temp,

  3. mix was way off.

Quote:

Make friends at a local auto body/paint shop with an oven?

Make friends with someone with a car big enough to put your board in and bake it (no hotter than 120). If it still doesn’t set after a day at warmer temps, start scraping and figure out your mixing/mixture problem. Good luck. I would recommend staying away from using acetone to remove the epoxy; acetone and epoxy splashing on the skin is a quick route to sensitization for some. Just scrape it all off if it comes to that.

What was your temp for lamination?

–BCo

thanks Woody-you are correct. To be more specific, I first did the lam, sanded lightly, then brushed a thin coat of epoxy. Sanded that, taped off and put down an acrylic pin line. It was over this pin line i put the epoxy. I now remember reading in another post about the Future trick you mention-should have done it. I have done as you have suggested and brought the board inside. I will keep this post updated. Thanks to all for your support!

By the way: FOLLOW Gregs 2 to 1 ratio. This happened because I skimped on hardner-I did 2 to .75!

Even if the resin fairies come in over night, it will never reach the needed strength. You’ve got one choice and I think you know what to do.

BTW, search on epoxy and scales to see past advice about measuring your volumes. I don’t want to sound like a know it all, but the digital scale really will keep you out of trouble. Mix it by scraping the sides and bottom as well as basic stirring. I don’t want to say that I’ve never had a problem because that will be the kiss of death on my next board.

You MUST follow the 2:1 ratio.

DON’T use Acetone to clean up this mess!

Use Denatured alcohol.

There are two different ratios you must know

when mixing Resin Research epoxy.

These numbers are to be considered valid for RR only.

One for volume: 2/1

One for weight: 100/45

They are not interchangeable.

Accuracy counts.

Weight is a far more accurate measurement than volume provided your scale is accurate. I use an Ohaus triple beam balance scale. For higher volume mixes get the extra weight kit. Don’t forget the tare.

It’s a lot easier than this makes it sound.

Quote:

Even if the resin fairies come in over night, it will never reach the needed strength. You’ve got one choice and I think you know what to do.

lol

I’d be careful even using alcohol to clean up. I had a batch that i put too much pigment in, and hadn’t set after a week. Tried to clean it up with alcohol and must have got some on my skin cause I ended up with a big golfball sized swelling on my arm. So I think you can still get problems even with alcohol and resin. Probably any solvent is going to make the resin more likely to get through your skin.

Good point. GL says solvents plus epoxy plus skin equals sensitization (I think…correct me if I’m wrong).

And Janklow, I think he meant:

or maybe:

Vinegar works too, or water and soap maybe,

but I think it is still solving the stuff with the risks,

sanding, scraping or burning can be dangerous too,

it is all uncured…

Take care, Soul

I gotta agree.  Once you screw up the mixture, You're screwed.  No point putting more money into it till you scrape off the goo..or, start over with a fresh blank.  It really sucks, but on the bright side, I bet you won't do it again.  Good luck.  We've all been there at one time or another,..I think.  At least I have.  Very humbling.

Ever thought of applying a thin film of hardener to ‘set’ the skin, it might slowly set the underlying microscopic levels, it’d be better than scraping or scrapping. Are you gloss coating?

Anythings worth a go when it looks like a dead end.

SF.

I think you may just have a skin to sand off. Try a soft pad with 60 or 80 grit set to as slow as it will go. It may just be a question of scuffing that skin off. Get some digital scales as well. Far more accurate than measuring by volume.