So I laminated the bottom with 2 layers- One S-Glass 14" wide nose to tail and one full wrap of 4oz warp. The one thing I noticed was the extra resin that filled the gaps I had carved for the carbon… maybe a little excessive but not too crazy overall. Channels are always challenge for me, but I survived! YES- I totally scored a few full sized mosquitos in the process. Ha ha.
So what’s the history on “Evo” “Nano” etc. I’m not that hip. Sounds like something the late Robin Wilkiams came up with right before he hung himself.
McDing,
I am not the expert on the MPH (modern Planning Hull) concepts… or any other surf related design concepts for that matter Ha ha! I have done a ton of reading and collecting images/info working to understand what makes these boards tick.
Basic idea- He has taken boards, dramatically shortened them, created extremely parrallel rails, worked extensively on bottom contours (i.e. channels, multi concaves and so on) and packaged/marketed them very well (hooked in with Firewire). None of this is new by any shake but, he has created something that has captured my interest (like a ton of other boards I see) and I wanted to know if I could build something that would work for myself. I am a bigger guy and I want to ride much shorter boards that allow me more manueverability (dont we all).
Background- To my knowledge the Nano and several other models were the first board on the front end of the MPH idea, followed by a slew of other models (V4, Vangaurd, Vader) and the Evo is the latest “user Friendly” model that TOMO came out with this year. It made a huge impact on the web and I made a few based on the design with good results (I am very certain my first was a miserable attempt at the idea).
I love shaping surfboards by hand and dig these styles of board and the idea behind them… so I have built a few to see how they go. The two builds you see in progress: An Evo that I havent been able to do much work on (waiting on parts) and the modified Nano (that I have been posting quite a bit about and seeking assistance on how to properly glass it).
These boards are based on TOMO (Dan Thomson) boards and actual concepts from MANY others. TOMOs board design and history have been well documented and there is really nothing new about the concepts he is using (no discredit here! just not earth shattering). I wont go into any detail becuase there are stacks of websites that do videos on his boards (check shred show and heaps of others), interviews with him get into crazy levels of detail regarding the boards and how they work.
Link to a TOMO interview: https://youtu.be/wsRIw03xTVg
Bottom line- I dig the designs and have enjoyed building them. The boards have worked for me… but I think every board I make for myself basically “works” so take it with a grain of salt!
There are dudes on Sways that are about a billion times more qualified to talk about all this stuff than myself. I am learning and sharing some of my stoke in the process. Hope it’s working!
PS- I have ZERO affiliation with TOMO or FW. Please dont think I am pushing any of their stuff! I am a straight up, outdoor tent shaper/hack (most of my boards have an insect somewhere in the lam).
Take care,
So I made it back from holiday and got cracking on the Nano. Laminated the top and hot coated the board. Working outside while it started raining… still survived but had to bring the project into the living room.
Final Lam schedule-
Bottom: Carbon strip, full length 14 in wide 4oz S-glass and full 4oz warp.
Top: Full length 14in wide 4oz S-glass patch, full 2 layers of 4 oz
Now on to plugs, sanding and final sealer coat.
Next up… The Evo is now taped off for cutlap. Stoked. Two boards working and three more in the chute.
You got some solid skills, there, bud.
Boards look very nice.
Thanks man, I appreciate the feedback.
I am currently installing regular old FCS X-2 plugs (I got a TON of them for a steal)… Easy right? I bought their (FCS) nice hole bit and the simple little marking stencil but none of the extra fancy tools FCS has for install (should have at least got the Dummy jigs). I have been using under glass Fusion plugs for a LONG time now and haven’t done a single plug install in years. Thought it would be easy but took me a little longer to get the holes drilled properly than I thought. I haven’t put the plugs in yet… just took my time and got everything drilled out.
Question- How are you all mixing plug resin? I am using epoxy. I can easily shred up some glass add it and some white pigment in to make it look right but would love to hear some tips from you guys on how you go about the sinlge plugs. FCS has their special sauce but I’m not buying it. Will an epoxy mix be to thick to drain down into the holes the same (i.e. should I partially fill the holes with resin and drop the plugs in)? I have reviewed the FCS install manual and video and know there isnt anything difficult about the install. I’m probably overthing this…
Thanks.
Definitely not the expert as I’ve only done 3 boards w/ the FCS plugs, but I can tell you what I did…and it’s worked so far. I heated up the epoxy in the microwave to thin it out a bit, mixed it up, dumped it in about 1/2 way ish (mb 2/3), let it settle for a minute or two to sink down and release some bubbles, and popped the plugs in. I went all out and got the whole FCS kit which felt like overkill at first, but it makes it SO easy! Worth it to me in my shaping infancy to have any step be close to easy. I haven’t had any problems with strength, I think as long as you have a ring around the circumfrence of the plug that drops through all the way through to the deck, or some holes where the epoxy can drop down and make contact with the deck you should be good. Or so I’ve heard. Haven’t figured out how to mix cabosil without getting a ton of bubbles though…hope this helps some. Loving the builds, I’m thinking about an Evo soon, let us know how they ride!
Chris
Hej CWRun,
I´m building Evo copies too.Using PU blanks i had milled in UK for first time.
Ive built a few SUP boards with EPS and epoxy- and be careful with the heat generated by epoxy, it can easily melt the eps. Its amazing how hot it gets- i burned a 3 in x 6 in x 3in hole in a eps block intalling fins- and i had a high density foam insert- but it crept around it somehow.
On my PU boards i am installing Futures- i used un thickened epoxy first set- pain to get it to fill and had to topup 2 times and sand between. ( orange board) The got the Fumed Silica powder- works wonders- its worth the effort to get it. the magenta board is 4oz lam first then boxes intalled then 2 laminations over. ( kiteboards)
Given all the work youve done- why not do a test on a scrap first?
Hey guys thanks for the input! TOM- YES it got really hot!
I got through multiple steps on each board today.
On the Nano- I installed the fin plugs- DISASTER. I had everything lined out before hand, set all of my stuff up and began- Bottom line the epoxy kicked off crazy fast in the holes and I only got two plugs in before I had to abort and clean out the other plugs… SO LAME. But after some clean up and readjusting I got everything reset and in place correctly. It was crazy for a minute though. I learned on this one.
Then I knocked out the cutlap on the Evo- Again, flawed! Insted of making a nice full tail patch I cut footballs for the fin boxes and… They showed through (of course)!! Ha ha so rediculous. Now I will have to come back and do some nice dark color work to clean it up.
All in all- Got the work done… execution very POOR. But I am here to share it either way! More to follow as I clean up the mess.
Cw,
The football patches are tinted. Even if you put them on clear they would show.
On my orange board I laminated a 4oz clear over my boxes, to get even surface for tint. Then I put tint lamination layer over that. I did a grinded lapp after cures. Worked good.
If you insist on lam tint for first lam layer and Cut lap, then you can put clear football patches on after ( on top) of tint lam.
My magenta board is tint laminate onto foam first, cutlap, then boxes installed, then clear cutlap.
Tom you are spot on. I should have put the patches on after… DUH (I was going to fast). Now I am going to tape it off and work another color lam just on the back end and make a nice patern to hide the mess. By the way your versions of the Evo look sick! Well done.
P-Co,
Cool! Is that foam stain or glass?
Clint-- kidding aside I’m very impressed with the effort, thought etc. that you have put into this board. Super nice job on the Carbon strip. I’ve seen Carbon strips that look like the “long and winding road” come out of Pro glass shops. The detail and thought that you put into the bottom contours and the fin placement are meticulous. Like I said “Trippy”. Lowel
Clint— where are you located?? If you are in OC or San Diego I could drop of a set of FCS “dummies” for you next trip. Lowel. PS was referring to the lay out of the fins. Sorry to read you had those probs. with the actual install. Lessons learned. Use “slow” Epoxy next time or since this was PU you could have used Poly. A quick fix is to run and get Ice from the fridg, putit in a zip lock and lay it on the plugs. Lowel
McDing,
Thanks! Yes I am very happy with how it is all coming together… Just don’t like making stupid mistakes that could easily have been avoided! Ha ha.
I am on the small island of Okinawa, Japan. But I may be moving to San Diego area this summer! Thank you so much for the offer of dummy jigs(I am purchasing a set on my next board order) Only on Swaylocks are guys this stoked to help each other out and learn the art of building surfboards! I really appreciate that.
So a quick update on the Evo, I have finished the top lam, sanded all of the rough spots and hotcoated the deck (Greenroom epoxy). Its coming together nicely.
On the Nano build I have sanded down the fin plugs and will sanding down the hotcoat in preparation for the sealer coat. Cant wait to get it done and into the water!
Made a little more progress today…
Sanded the Nano and did the sealer coat on the deck. So close to getting this thing the water!
Also routed the leash and fin plugs for the Evo and got the plugs set. Its coming along nicely.
So here is the Nano all finished up. Final dims: 6’ x 20.5" x 2.75 nose 15.8" x tail 16" vol. 39.5 Ltrs. I am very happy with the way it came out (minus one of my crappy fin plug installs). It was great to have the FCS plugs for sanding. They blended right into my channels.
Took it out on its maiden voyage today but the waves were aweful. I decided to start out using a Mayhem quad fin set and it seems like they will do for now. I will post a better ride report once I get a couple sessions on it.
It will be interesting to see if there is any recognizable difference (without the stringer and with carbon) once I really get it going. Really stoked I tired the carbon and extra layers of glass. It was a great learning experiecne no matter what the outcome. This will give me a good starting point to work from for future builds like this. Thanks to Lemat and everyone who chimed in.
The Evo is just waiting to cure up so I can finish sand it. Pictures of that one coming soon as well.
What’s your thinking on the carbon on the bottom only? That when standing on-board and pushing in turns, carbon is in tension but still allows flex and maintains rebound energy? If you put carbon on top too the board would get too stiff?
I’m thinking how to build in controlled flex into thin surfboard for kitesurfing use. Is starting point to use carbon on bottom only?
