rad!
rad!
Centre and side fin plugs for under glass installation using a 1 1/2" Forstner bit (sorry but a design to suit a 1" or 1 1/4" Forstner looked too weak).
If you happen to print and test them let me know if they need any modifications.
And I like the fin box install with carbon yarns on top. Very nice.
All the best
It’s not real carbon, I used a fiberglass tape like “a net” and I applied over it Dynema rowing, a friend of mine gave to me a spool for free, is the same that you can see in the fins, simply I applied more rowing in the fins than on plugs or in the central stripe of the surfboard. Dynema tensil strenght is 3500 MPa, carbon id 4130… not the same but if you compare the price for it I paid 2 euro for 20 meter of tape, no cost for dynema, Carbon is more or less 6 euro or dollar per meter…
It look like the scrim you use when doing drywall or plastering to put on joints?
yes it is
all i have is pla. have you tried them in pla is it strong enough if i print solid?
PLA is too brittle, PLA absord water(don’t know the percentage) and sun is not a good friend … but you can try… ABS is better even PETG is interesting…
So just to clarify on all this,
PLA too brittle for printing any of these plugs? Was thinking of trying the under glass fcs one plugs, as I have a hole saw.
And what is the go with the “jig” template above? What router bit is that for? Thanks in advance
The jig.dxf file above is a 1:1 outline of the FCS2-like plug from earlier in the thread in mm units. It is not compensated for a router bit. The intent is that the user creates the offset that work with whichever bearing and bit combo is being used.
If I ever get a 3D printer, I think I’d spool it up with PETG. Better sun and water resistance than PLA, good strength and less fumes than ABS.
ah yep yep. Cool as. Any chance someone could post a mirror of the 5 degree left plug? Or do you think. 3d printing place could do that for me?
love the idea of the plug without the barrel lock. Much simpler, and has less issues when put in an EPS build.
After both plugs were pushed in on my sci-fi, I re-set them and chipped the barrel locks flat with a chisel, and squirted some epoxy in there to glue it flat and flush. Now I just use the one screw at the back.
NDS-Your printing place should be able to do it no problem.
Actually, screw it. (Pun intended)
anyone have a 3d printed and are willing to print me a thruster set? PM me, we can agree on a price etc etc, pay via PayPal.
im in Western Australia tho, so Australian residents only please.
Sounds like a good plan NSD.
I would see about getting them ‘marked’ before the install, to be clear on what is front/back/left/right/center.
You would not need it in the print if you installed the dummy fins or marked them some other way.
Yeah so…aaaaanyone in Aus and keen, PM me as soon as you like!
cheers
Struggling to see how this is actually worth it. I guess owning a printer is key. I can’t get a box under $13 and then if you only Print 3, they slap a fee on top of it’s under $50! May as well buy the real deal
Hiya,
is there any chance you can knock up a 9 degree one?
or if anyone has done one let me know?
Anyone is still using them? I’m working on updated 2022 version not changing a lot of things I was just to make te top inclined parts more gentle to have less issue with air bubbles, I’m decreasing even the hexagonal holes number, the only reason I designed is to remove air bubble from the resin in the plug slot plus i’m adding embossed numbers showing the degree of each slot and an arrow pointing to the rail and to the tip. Let me know if someone is interested to have the STL files I will work on them during Christmas time. I’m using them since years never got a failure, if some of you got some issues, you are more than wellcome to share them so I can modify the file.