Hi Nemoz_Z,
Thanks, I would interested in trying the new files when ready (no rush) as I can now 3D print at home. What filament(s) is(are) working for you? The last boxes I had rpinted for board use were from ABS on a buddy’s printer but I have yet to install them. I just did a PLA mockup to test a routing fixture and I hope to have some PETG soon.
I used only ABS never use PETG, ABS is very resin freindly, I have no clue about PETG.
(my oldest printed and used plugs are in ABS and are still great in my surfboard in Indonesia after more than 4 years, do I really need to try the PETG?)
I still do not know much about the filament types : ABS, PETG, PLA, etc… I was told that PLA is easy to print and a PLA+ was for sale at the same store as the printer so I bought a spool of that and nowhere near using up the spool yet. I understand that ABS is a little stronger but more picky to print and smells more printing. PETG seems more durable than PLA, sort of in the middle. A coworker runs a 3D print shop at his house and so far when I need ABS I have him do it and his prices are reasonable.
just copy and paste:
"PLA would be a non-starter for outdoor use as it’s biodegradable and can breakdown in sunlight. Albeit slowly, but won’t be useful for long term project.
ABS would be a good choice for longevity, as it can last in outdoor situations for quite a while. Its glass transition temperature is above 100 degrees celsius so it’ll last in most climates. As for strength ABS is one of the better choices out there, also it’s slightly softer than PLA meaning it will flex before breaking, PLA is much more likely to shatter. ABS is well known for warping while printing though. Not a huge problem though, if you’re used to printing with it.
PETG not a bad choice either. It has a glass transition temperature around 80-90°C. So if you’re building in a hot place with direct sunlight with some reflection, you could have deformation issues, though not that likely. It is stronger than ABS and it’s also easier to print (less warping issues). PETG is also supposedly ‘food safe’ meaning if the outdoor animals start pecking at it, it’ll probably not kill them… I wouldn’t recommend trying to taste it though. Finally PETG is a bit closer to PLA in terms of brittleness so it may shatter before flexing. ABS is less brittle than PETG.
If it were me I’d go with ABS despite its issues with warping while printing. If you’re newer to printing, then probably better to go with PETG."
also
“Epoxy. Technically, epoxy isn’t a type of glue, though it’s a great way to bond plastics, and it works fine with PETG. The versatility and durability of epoxy are usually more than enough for many applications.”
So when I will finish my ABS spools, actually I have several, I will try PETG for sure.
0 version 2022
what’s new in 2022
less exagon at the top, they are still enouth to let the air exit from the bottom of the plug and it will be faster during printing
arrow pointing to nose and numer indicating the degrees.
I changed a little bit some internal thickness
smoother transitions around screws and fin slot area, it will be easier to laminate without air bubbles.
I uploaded the STL file renamed in txt, uploaded you can find even the 0 degrees mirrired if someone want to go for fins setup similar to NPJ or Tomo dual like the el Tomo and so on…
In the next days I will upload the files for the 3, 5 and 7 degrees, someone in the past asked me even the 9, not so sure if I will do it…
https://swaylocks7stage.s3.us-east-2.amazonaws.com/s3fs-public/plug%200.txt
https://swaylocks7stage.s3.us-east-2.amazonaws.com/s3fs-public/plug%200%20mirrored.txt
Hi Nemoz_Z,
I am printing one of the boxes now. The files look nice.
.16 mm layer height, PLA+, 207C nozzle, 65C bed, 45% infill so about 6.5 hours
I know that PETG or ABS would be better but I did not get any yet.
-Did you do something different for infill or layer height when you did ABS?
I have some install questions, maybe you answered these already I did not go back to look…
-Do you fill in all the open spaces with resin during the install until it bleeds out the top?
-Polyester or epoxy?
-Pre-glass?
-Fabric on the bottom of the hole and glass over the top?
Thanks!
PS off printer, would it be possible to add another grub screw up front?
6.5 hours is too much 
Simplify3d told me 1 hour and 55 minutes but usually after the first layer i was increasing speed with over ride to 200% I need 45 minutes each plug, in ABS i was using infill honeycomb to 100%(due to the form of honeycomb is infilling at 50% in the end, but if you look at the slices there is not so much infill. i was using 4 top and mottom layers, but if you look at the first file i posted in the gcode, the first lines are including all the settings.
My speed is defaultSpeed,3600, plus with the over ride that exceed a lot the normal printing speed, I have a 5 years old tevo tarantula 200€ with some modification because the original frame at that speed was not stable at all.
why do you wnat another grub screw? in the side fins tha inside grub screw are used and they already fit with old FCS fins.
for installing, I used only with XPS foam, so only epoxy, but for what I know both ABS than PLA than PETG are good with polyester. Only pre-glassing.usually I put some resin with microsfere at the bottom then i push the plug in then with a syringe i add resin throught the exagonal hole till filling everything, if you put too much resin at the beginning it comes out from the exagonal holes. I never put fabrics at the bottom, probably on poliuretane core or eps low density can be an idea to add a layer, I put every time a patch on the top.
Enjoy it, the next one will come soon, actually I’m building my snowboards that winter season is on.
3 degrees left and right
https://swaylocks7stage.s3.us-east-2.amazonaws.com/s3fs-public/3%20left.txt
https://swaylocks7stage.s3.us-east-2.amazonaws.com/s3fs-public/3%20right.txt
5 and 7 degrees left and right
https://swaylocks7stage.s3.us-east-2.amazonaws.com/s3fs-public/5%20left.txt
https://swaylocks7stage.s3.us-east-2.amazonaws.com/s3fs-public/5%20right.txt
https://swaylocks7stage.s3.us-east-2.amazonaws.com/s3fs-public/7%20left.txt
https://swaylocks7stage.s3.us-east-2.amazonaws.com/s3fs-public/7%20right.txt
If you move an older tabded fin forward, there is no screw in contact to the tab in the forward pocket Ading the screw makes them more adjustaqble and work more like Probox or Gearbox. This would not be an issue with FCS2 fins that have the notch to catch in the front.
Nice job all the way around, thanks for posting your designs and the printing and install tips!
go for this it’s way way better…
https://swaylocks7stage.s3.us-east-2.amazonaws.com/s3fs-public/HX1%20back%20mould.txt
https://swaylocks7stage.s3.us-east-2.amazonaws.com/s3fs-public/HX1%20front%20mould.txt
Just came upon this thread again and was surprised to see the recent activity. Pretty cool stuff. Just going to throw this one out there. Been thinking of getting a 3D printer to make molds rather than actual parts. I’d be very interested in making molds for making compression forged carbon fiber fins compatable with the popular fin boxes or even simply fin blanks with the correct base on them from which I could cut out and foil the rest of the fin.
If you are unfamiliar with forged carbon fiber, in a nutshell you have a two piece or multi piece mold that you prep and then fill with your desired combination of fabrics, core, chop strand tow and resin. You wet everything out in the mold and then put the mold together. The mold is then sandwiched between plates of metal to apply even pressure and then a vice is used to compress the mold which in turn squeezes out all excess resin leaving an extremely light and strong part. You are left with the finished part which you can then clean up and apply a gloss coat if needed. I believe this is actually the process used to make those $100+ high end fins. At the manufacturer level I am sure they are using billet aluminum molds but for the hobbyist a 3D printed mold would be more than adequite.
Just throwing this concept out there for those of you who are already playing with design software and 3D printers. Perhaps one of you is already going down this path.
I’m using the mould I posted exactly as you explained except I don’t use carbon fiber.
I am on that path too…
took some time to get familiar with printing and CAD but i think im getting there.
If you havent seen it already , there is a video series from easycompositesbon exactly that topic , compression moulded fiber in 3d printed moulds.
They talk about the use of petg for moulds, jrandy and nemoz mentioned the material- i personally couldnt dial it in yet- what a stringy mess…
I have done a few molds, from a basic 2-tab dolphin side fin to a Buck Rogers/Flash Gordon center fin with nacelles and glitter. I also have a Bahne box finbase mold for fixing ceter fins after I mess them up during the process.
They were done in machined HDPE (cutting board material, epoxy releases naturally barring undercuts or stringers)
I never made them for ultimate strength or low weight, just filled them up like a Jello mold to capture the shape and sometimes added cloth or carbon fiber or veneer.
Wetted-out fiberglass or carbon fiber with a foam insert to take up volume to take out weight in the foil would be interesting as well as clamping them as described above.
I believe with a set of 3D printed molds the hobbyist could rival the top end foam core and carbon fins right at home.
First off, I’ve been a silent stalker on this thread for years starting from the first release (as I am sure most are). I wanted to take this chance to say thanks for your work on these. They are really great!
So I’m fairly keen to print and use the moulds but I have a question or two (or three).
1.) Am I assuming correctly that one would need to print a matching flat piece with bolt holes that would go over the top of these moulds and allow the whole assembly to be compressed in a vise?
2.) What’s the difference between the front and the back moulds? I’ve studied them and I can only see small differences in the fin shape. Are these in reference to their position in a quad arrangement? What if they were used for a thruster?
3.) Do you have a mould for the center fin? I suppose that would be a bit complex since it needs to be convex on both sides so it would need to be a two-part mould with one part that slots into the other.
Thanks.
Where did you find the FCS II fin model? I’ve been looking around but have come up with nothing.
