After building a couple boards I’ve become intrigued with the flow and unison I’ve seen in the way hulls can ride. I’ve always tried to let the wave dictate how it should be ridden rather that forcing it to do what I wanted, and hulls seem like the perfect lesson in following the wave and just gliding. From what I’ve read these guys seem to be about as complex as the best of them, but I figured I’d give it a go. I’ll take pictures along the way, and would appreciate any type of critique and advise, constructive or not (it’ll make it interesting).
I was going to start off with the US Blanks 8’4 SP and was shooting for something like:
UPDATED
7’4 X 22 X 3
20 @ 12" from nose
18 @ 12" from tail
Nose rocker 3 maybe a little more
Tail rocker 2 1/4 maybe a little less
Convex in nose going back around 18" and slowly decreasing down the rails and fading out “under” hard rails in the tail section
Im thinking about 1/4" vee that starts where the rocker breaks, and flattens out at the back of the fin box
Uprail in front
Tucked rails through middle (80/20ish)
Sharp rails in back
Diamond tail
Double concave
Single fin
The 8’4 gave me a rocker progression that’s slightly more what I was looking for, and would give me more flat area in the middle of the board.
My other option is a 7’9 H and drop the nose 1/2"
I’m open to either. If anything I’d rather pay less as long as the outcome is beneficial. This is what I’m going for, hopefully Ace can give some insight into this beauty.
4 in the nose and 1 in the tail
hmmmmm…
Extra in the nose to get more of the "hull effect?
Less in the tail for speed?
I had read in the archives, I believe it was LeeV and his…raspberry hull, and he was putting a bit more in the tail so I was kinda going with that.
I know the forward fin position will loosen it up, but I don’t want it too stiff. Then again I’ve never surfed a hull…
Here’s a good video of what I’m looking to get outta this board: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EATy-LPx27I
Obviously its all mostly the rider, but the smoothness and flow of the turns, speed, and maybe a couple cheater fives is what I’m looking for.
If you want a board that surfs like Dirt’s, study Greg Liddle’s shapes. Personally I’d stay with, or bump the tail rocker a bit to 2 and 1/4’ and think about a wider nose. What you described is pretty much what I shape for myself. Hulled entry to dead flat under my feet to a Vee in the tail. All the while the rails sort of corkscrew from turned up in the nose to a hard down in the last third. Also consider adding boxes for a 2+1 option. I found it easier to establish a dead flat bottom before moving on to the contours. That way, you have a reference to keep sighting and direct the depths and shapes of the Vee and the hull progression. What do you think about a 19 and a 1/2" nose and an 18 and a 1/2" tail?
Im really glad you commented, because 19 nose and 17 tail were my original numbers. I decided not to do it cause that’s how wide my noserider nose is.
Been checking a lot of Liddle’s pics out, but would really love to get my hands on one to fondle a bit. Those S decks are magic. On my mini Simmons I put all of the meat between my chest and hips, but I feel there’s a little more voodoo to it. I’d read in the past that the S deck should correlate to your rocker break, which makes sense.
I use the 8’4"SPX for a 7’6" board. I want a little thicker board to float my old ass. Plus I do a lot of sculpting top and bottom. My boards are not the bladed out, thin fin way up boards, I personally do not like the way those work in the waves I ride. 20" wide nose and 18" tails is what I hit on those…You might be able to use the 7’9"H reducing rocker a little but the 8’4’SP gets me what I want.
Greg has done a ton of boards with no S deck at all. It is the bottom he concentrated on. I think and seem to remember it was his cronies; K.P., Dirt, Bowler, etc, that really pushed the S deck shapes. They would take Greg’s designs and tweak them to what they saw as ultimate refinement. Then, would compete to see who could come up with the meanest blade. You can have your Hull and a full deck if you want. If it is your first Hull shape, then I would steer away from too much S contouring. Get used to how the bottom surfs first, It’s not a stomp the tail and pivot design. Some guys don’t like surfing front footed.
When you say compete for the meanest blade are you talking about who could get the knifeyist rail?
For the most part I feel like I surf front footed…
Do S decks tend to work better for front foot surfers? If so I feel like I should give it a go and tightened up this form of deck shape.
The reason for an S deck is to shed foam and therefore, weight that is not absolutely needed. Refinement. It is not critical to a hulled board. And yes, bladed is knifey rails and bladed out fore and aft. No uneeded foam whatsoever, taking it as far as one can go and still perform in waves. These boards aren’t for big waves but tailored to surf the point at Malibu and similar breaks. Once Greg moved to Hawaii, he started shaping for more juice.
“The reason for an S deck is to shed foam and therefore, weight that is not absolutely needed. Refinement. It is not critical to a hulled board.”
If some of the hardcore hull guys read that and feel they want to get into it, they might touch upon your mention that the S deck is not critical. There were many posts discussing that the S deck lightens the load in the nose so it can flex with the wave. Some of the guys agreed and some didn’t so take it for what it is.
If you really want to get into hulls you should ride one first that has been shaped by a reputable shaper; then build one for yourself. I say this because I have two hulls, longboard and shortboard (with S deck), and if I shaped a hull before ever riding one I would be sorely disappointed. Heck, I shaped one after riding professional built hulls and still was disappointed; but now I know why.
Two suggestions. Since you mostly surf beach breaks, I’m not sure a hull is the best choice. They are designed to build speed from trim and glide and re-direction. For this you need a face that allows more than a drop a and a turn or two. Also if you are in S.D., I’d hotfoot it down to OB and try to have a chat with the man himself Mr. Elliot. You can get a good look at what he does and it will make the trip worth it. I like his stuff too. ps. I was a fly on the wall when those guys, K.P. Bowler, and Mr. Alphabet (Dirt) were experimenting and saw some crazy shite. BT.DT.
Haven’t really considered that. Wouldn’t these be more directed towards point break or bigger waves?
I’ve been digging through that hull thread, and there is some good info in there. The more I read the more I wish I could just get my hands on a Liddle, but 1) they rarely ever pop up for sale used 2) I can’t even afford them used! hahahahaha 3) I’d like to refine my shaping
I did come across this while reading that thread, and it has me rethinking some design thoughts:
“Steve’s outline had a “straighter” line to the round tail and Greg’s had more “hip”. Steve said he liked to bottom turn from the middle of the board (where more of the hull was) and then do a cross step to the nose area where it was flatter and the board would just take off (like on a longboard but way faster of course).”
Look up KP’s Blog or Vaqueros del Mar. Kirk Putnam is basically Greg’s contact here in Ca. He might have a line for you. It is mentioned on Liddle’s site.
Ya an ACE board would be one of my best options because they’re shaped for local waves. I always keep an eye out on Craigslist for his boards used, and have only come across a longboard that I scored earlier this year. If one of his HullyGully’s popped up in my price range I’d snag it on the dime, but my pockets are shallow and I enjoy learning the craft.
Ps been following some of those blogs and theyve got some gooooood info on them. Thanks for the other recommendations
