Foam cutter

After long time thinking on what to use to cut the foam (because I do my own blank) I discovered a tool named EZE foam cutter.

The price… the problem was the price so I decided to make one.

 

m.youtube.com/watch?v=JRYjOu1GGNg

and this is my foam cutter ready to cut the foam

very cool!

how does it go?

did you consider a small hotwire?

dunno, next week i’ll use it  on a PU block.

hot wire won’t work with PU foam.

last year i used a 30cm blade but the cut was not a perfect 90° angle. the desviation was of about 1-3°

now I use the same blade but with the thing i made same principle as a the electric bread knife.

I can’t wait to see how it works

We’re going to be calling you Caitlyn after your d!@k off with that blade wobbeling around on the underside of the blank.

Hahahahahaha

Hi ColinlG-It will be interesting to see how this works. In the video they are using a bottom shoe and a table top, so the saw is not bouncing on the top of the foam.  Will you be doing that too? Please let us know how it goes.

 

 

I usually fail cutting EPS foam with any handheld power saw, by hand or hotwire things are OK.

All the blades shown are far too agressivle.

It’s just foam.

Those are for wood.

More teeth per inch will yeild a finer cut.

The problem with jig saws is the blade deviation on the underside.

Too much flex.

 

Cuts to a depth of 5".


Good stuff Guys, thanks. I tried both the long skinny blades and ones that look more like Sawzall (reciprocating) saw blades that were shorter and wider with no joy. I’ll try some finer ones next.-J

$15 for a nice fine tooth hand saw.  I’m a garage guy who makes 2-6 boards per year.  So I don’t see the economics in going beyond this hand saw technology.  I suppose if you were more a of a production builder, then maybe investing in a tool that is faster and easier to use would be worth the money.  Good luck with whatever direction you decide to go.

 

I bought the festool blades a while ago, and tried them. They work ok, but they are still a little flimsy. 

I watched the Ben Aipa video, and saw how easy he cuts out a template with a hand saw. I found it a much easier and smoother process. 

x2 on the handsaw. 

Much more dangerous,

But by far the cleanest outlines ever.

Provided your templates are true,

Cut and never touch outline again.

Works for me.

it’s raining here, i’ll have to wait till thursday to find how it works.

my idea is to use two rectangular metal bar as a guide and the jig saw in between.

the PU block is around 5" thick. 

I already use the saw and the cut was not very smooth but  a sanding block with 80 grit let it perfect.

I don’t wanna use it for  the outline, it’s for cutting the block in two equal pieces with a 99% of perfection of a 90º angle.

Then glue the stinger between those pieces

Big fan of this $8 saw from Harbor Freight.  Fine teeth and the blade is narrow enough to make cutting the curve of a blank a breeze.  The curve of the handle fits your hand real good too.

Just splurged and bought this through Amazon.  Total cost was about $1 USD less through Amazon.  10 inch flush cut pull saw.  Looks like an improvement over my hand saw.

I use the same cheap pull saw. I reversed the handle so that it bends away from me and I can hold the handle vertical.

What is going on here?   A hand saw will cut just as fast as a jig saw…and be more accurate.  Leave it up to swaylocks to complicate even the most mundane task as cutting out the outline.  For godsakes…get blank and thin to approximate thickness,draw and cut the template out with a decent hand saw leaving about  1/8 inch shy of outline…clean up outline with your planer. you are ready.

The only other option is Barrys full router template cut…that works real good too.   All the other power tools are just adding a level of complexity and wobble that are no good for Johnny Backyarder.  I mean if you are going to use a jigsaw…why not a sawzall or a rotohammer…maybe use a chopsaw?..no wait use a hammer drill and hold it vertically, they will all net the same results.

Just learn how to use a hand saw and cut the board out…it take about 1-2 minutes per side.

Guys, it appears the original poster is looking for a way to cut a stringerless blank straight and true down the middle so he can glue in a stringer. He’s not talking about cutting outlines. His idea of using the two straight bars as a guideline and running his modified jig-blade between those bars looks pretty good to me, as long as they are clamped down securely.

 

In that case, if it were me, I would use my hotwire.

Tension the wire, get it all set up straight and perfect.

When I’m ready, hit the switch and it will drop right through the foam.

Perfect cut.