Hi Oneula,
The dark band in the middle of my board is just paint, I painted the wood before glassing, with acrylic paints without thinning because the wood would suck it otherwise and it would bleed under the masking tape. I didn’t wrap the wood around the rails. Here’s what I did, Bert Burger’s style board :
1- I cut a blank in EPS foam (10 kg/m3 desity, a little bit more than 1 lb/sqft I think) with our CNC hot wire foam cutter (had to build it before making the board)
2- I built the balsa rails with 4 thicknesses of 3 mm balsa wood. I used the offcuts of the outline to push the wood against the blank, the planks were taped together at the nose (making a “hinge” section). I used paper tape to join the planks together, and the tape stays there forever once glued, except on the outside. I used white vinylic glue, so there are no concerns with toxicity, and it sticks well wood onto EPS. When gluing the rails, the blank was on it’s bottom offcut with weights so it wouldn’t twist.
3- I finished making the rails by gluing balsa blocks where needed at the tail section (where the balsa planks wouldn’t bend easily enough).
4- I shaped the blank and inserted balsa blocks for the fin boxes (future)
5- I prepared top and bottom skins by taping (outside face) 2mm balsa planks together. I used the corner of my table with protruding wood blocs so I could align the planks at 90° and tape them with very little work. There I realised that taping the planks at an angle make a skin that flexes much more than having the planks longitudinally taped together. Putting the planks like that doesn’t allow the wood to go around the rails for sure.
6- I put 3.5 oz fiberglass under the wood with resin on top and bottom skins and bagged them on the shaped blank at slightly more than -0.1 bar depression (-0.12 maybe).
7- One of the longest part of the work, cleaning the edges of the skins that overlap the balsa rails.
8- I finished cleaning all the work and prepare the board to be glassed on the outside, I glued the Future boxes on.
9- Big mistake, this time, I wanted to experiment glassing using a thick PVC plastic (like the ones used for making the bottom of pools) in order to have the finished slick aspect of the plastic on the board once cured. I put the fiberglass and resin on the plastic, and put everything on the bottom of the board that was laying bottom up on 2 EPS blocks, on an 18 mm pine board, everything in the vaccum bag. When I applied the vacuum, it wouldn’t roll my fiberglass+plastic around the rails like I wanted it to and I could see the once flat 18 mm pine board flex upwards and the board have many inches more rocker downwards. The pressure was trying to pull everything together (I should have expected that anyway, stupid boy!!!). The nice thing was that I could then verify what Bert Burger was saying, these boards can flex way further without braking…and go back to their original shape…extremely impressive “experiment”. I had to stop that if I didn’t want 10" nose and 7" tail rockers, I stripped the plastic out and ended up glassing by hand like I usually do, with a roller (excellent tool for that in my opinion, you use very little resin and it spreads it very evenly!).
10- I cleaned the lap very easily the next morning as the resin was set but not too hard yet.
11- I fiberglassed the deck trying the same thing as for the bottom, but the board was lying on the bottom offcut so it couldn’t bend like before. I used 1 X 4 oz fiberglass on both the bottom and the deck.
The result using the plastic sheet on fiberglass under vacuum wasn’t too good as the surface was mostly even except “holes” where there wasn’t enough resin to make the perfect finish.
12- I cleaned the lap very easily once again (so easy with 1 X 4 oz fiberglass)
13- I directly glossed the board with resin + 10% monomere styrene + 5% waxed styrene as I read on Swaylocks. 1X 4 oz weave is very fine and my lap was on the rail so easy to clean well (no added thickness then, and it had been bagged, so well compacted).
14- It ended up that the bottom that I eventually glassed by hand had a better finish than the top that I glassed under vacuum with the plastic sheet. I had better vacuumed using peel ply and breather like usual but I wanted the slick finish straight away…
15- Sand and polish the board. I had a few sand through though, but that’s OK. The weight of that board is 2250g without fins. I’m happy with how it rides for now, haven’t tried it enough though (4-5 sessions for now).
Thanks for the nice comments.
Pierre
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