Not a nice smooth concrete floor either otherwise I would just chisel it off. More like tarmac. I thought about acetone but stopping it from evaporating before it did any good would be a mission. Waterblasting would probably be too weak. Thought about sandblasting but don’t have a sandblaster. Could always go the way of a hammer and chisel but I don’t want to be there till Xmas. My only other thought was trying to melt it off with a heat gun but I think I would probably make a bigger mess as well as set myself on fire. Any other suggestions?
I can’t think of anything that wouldn’t be extremely hazardous to your health and safety. The solvents required and the quantities are just not a good idea in the home environment. I think a big grinder is your best option. And in future, lay down some old cardboard or plastic…
of course you could try UV lights and leave em there for a year or five… LOL!
I actually just glassed a board for a first time shaper in his garage yeaterday with Sun Cure. We had a few knarly puddles that cured on his drive way (which was rough) and what i did was lightly hammer the top of a putty knife. It all came up with no hitches. I hope this helps. Chris.
Never thought of trying a putty knife. Will give it a shot. Thanks.
yeh Mate, putty or plasterers knife, hammer and a pair of glasses, because that s#!t flies.
Get yourself a floor scraper, the ones they use for taking up tile. It’s about the size of shovel. They work great, and it keeps your face way from the flying chunks. Buy it at Home Depot, or rent mine for $2 per day.
I glassed several boards before the big resin removal project. Lots of resin. The best method for me was to hammer the heck out of it at first. Straight down on top. That will break 80% loose. Then I sacrificed a chisel. Hammer and chisel just like cutting wood. For the very last little bumps, a belt sander smoothed it off.
Definitely wear goggles when you use the hammer.
Now I duct tape that heavy construction paper down. (the pinkish stuff) Works great: Just pull it up and replace it.
Doug
this is the way to fly.
the good ones have a lot of weight to them and a wide, flat blade at the bottom for getting underneath
stuff and prying.
Quote:
Get yourself a floor scraper, the ones they use for taking up tile. It’s about the size of shovel. They work great, and it keeps your face way from the flying chunks. Buy it at Home Depot, or rent mine for $2 per day.
deanbo
how much resin are you talking about? i occasionally need to remove some from the floor of the shop and just use a chisel and hammer, but again its not a great quantity - maybe 4 to 6 oz scattered about here and there.
i line the shop floor with tar paper from my friendly neighborhood home improvement store and tape the seams with cheap masking tape. usually lasts 10 or 15 boards depending on how sloppy i get, and it only costs $15 a roll
good luck
brasco
Ha so im not the only one who has a bumpy shed!!. I use a hammer and chisel, but like everyone says glasses ( goggles are better ) are a must, that shit almost explodes when you hit it.
Not huge amounts, but enough to make for some work. Also sand is my favourite lining for drips, just a bit on the late side with it is all.
I´d go the other route and put some thin layer of fine concrete over it.
Shouldn´t be long till that pays off.
Cheers - D.
I’m on my sixth board now and never bothered cleaning the drips off the floor, and I am the world’s worst glasser. I end up with nearly as much on the floor as on the board. Its begining to level out now there’s that much!!!
Peace!
How 'bout your sander/grinder with 30-60 grit.
you should see my shed, the resin drips are an improvment.
Home Depot or Lowes, goto the roofing section and buy a roll of roofing shingle…not the individual pieces, the stuff on the roll.
You can cover a large area and cut it in sections for where you need it and it will last a million times longer than most anything you can put down…we are talking years, not days or months.
Its easy to sweep or hose down and when it gets oversaturated with resin if your doing enough work and your just that messy, just roll it up and throw it out. It doesnt get slippery or fall apart and resin wont eat it away or soak through.
Its about $20-22 for the roll.
My 7 inch sander with a rigid course sanding/grinding disc attachment will cut through small quantities of resin in about 30 seconds. If you were so inclined, you could pass finer grits afterwards. Any abrading tool used for concrete will cut thru it like buttah. I have several attachments for the sander; very handy around the house and on surfboards…with a buffing attachment I can polish my car too.
What would life be like without my sander???
Hmm, dont want to know…
Yeah, roofing paper is the stuff. Put it down with duct tape. Lasts about 6 months glassing everyday. For the errant drips from the mixing table to the glassing racks, wait until it cures and then use a razorblade scraper. I try to at least once a week clean up the shop, most big problems just come from neglect.
A bit late in the game, but…I soften errant resin spills with a heat gun set on high and then use a putty or razor knife–never had any spalling that way.
wack it with a ball peen hammer. some of it will come off in chips