Knowing nothing about how to do a gloss, but listening to the suggestions, i would guess its that car soap you use. Most car washing/detailing products have wax in them to get the car to shine nicely…
that’s right! i thought it would be like dish soap - cuts grease…hmmmm…dish soap next time!!!
FWIW,I’ve clocked up a few thousand glosses…proffesionally.
I’m with Vader…could’nt agree more…Got taught by the best in the business
here in Oz…and ''banging em off ‘’ aint the way to go…
moku
pat attention
use gloss resin add cat per the can,
sand and wipe (no products), pour on resin as you brush, push off excess with brush, tip out, swipe the rails, walk away
leave the special formulas to the pros
keep it simple
doesn’t Kokua have a diff formula? also been thinking about getting UV lights and using UV gloss resin…might solve some problems…as using UV gloss and moving a board to outdoor sunlight is just inviting problems…btw, I’ve only done a couple of hundred boards and only lately has this separation problem been happening…
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well i find it interesting you like your glosses to bang of hot. im more of a just right kind of craftsman. i learned to gloss from dave higly, who learned from wayne miata.resin head how much surfacing agent are you using?, how much catalyst are you using?
resin head how many glosses do you do a day,… a week?
how many sides can you get out of a bucket of gloss?
im sure you glosses go off fast and dont sepo but do they shine ?
are they easy to polish when they bang off hot?
are they dull from all the surfacing agent added?
its easy to bang shit off.
it takes time to tune into how to throw a perfect flat gloss that polishes well dosn’t use to much sand paper and isnt dull from diluted gloss resin…ive taken the time.
good luck everyone and ill make sure not to answer anymore questions on how tos cause i dont know what im doing. lmao
peace out,
Nainoa
Yeah real impressive. You’ve slagged Resinhead off told us how good you are and how much you know, but we’re just trying to help Moku. Since you know the right way, maybe you could help the guy out by sharing some of that. If you’re trying to impress someone, well, you’ve made an impression, all right.
moku
Youve done 95 more boards than me , I am hardly the expert
I had the slits only on my #003 board Im still not exactly shur what did it, I can only guess.
Seeins how it was the same batch of resin , I figure it could only be temp or contamination
Iv been using UV cat since my #001 prekicked on me due to a radical temp change in my garage
Ive had good luck with it, gives me plenty of time and I can let it set to level before kicking it
I do it by the door and when ready I open the door for a few minutes the close the door then repete
a few times to slow the kickin down and keep the board from heating up. also I do the lam and sand coats with UV cat.
Kokua adds styrene to his batches to thin it out that helps it to go on thin and level out faster
I havent looked too hard for it so I just use whats in the can, if you do it right it works
You will be spending a bunch of money on a UV light set up, Its hard to match what the sun puts out
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well i find it interesting you like your glosses to bang of hot. im more of a just right kind of craftsman. i learned to gloss from dave higly, who learned from wayne miata.resin head how much surfacing agent are you using?, how much catalyst are you using?
resin head how many glosses do you do a day,… a week?
how many sides can you get out of a bucket of gloss?
im sure you glosses go off fast and dont sepo but do they shine ?
are they easy to polish when they bang off hot?
are they dull from all the surfacing agent added?
its easy to bang shit off.
it takes time to tune into how to throw a perfect flat gloss that polishes well dosn’t use to much sand paper and isnt dull from diluted gloss resin…ive taken the time.
good luck everyone and ill make sure not to answer anymore questions on how tos cause i dont know what im doing. lmao
peace out,
Nainoa
The estrogen is just oozing out of that one. Man up, have a beer, get laid and go for a surf. Maybe instead of slagging off people you could just add some helpful info or not reply if you don’t feel like it.
I tried UV gloss maybe half a dozen times and even minimal air movement causes orange peel for me…doors opening, carrying out to the sun, etc. I can get a UV box setup for a couple of hundred dollars. Brush the board ready and flick a switch…seems kinda cool…
Thats a great deal for a uv box. how big a board will it handle?
where are you located?
You know? if this is the first time youve had bad gloss, chock it up as an “oh well!?”
Tips from my limited knowledge of gloss coating. Medium paint strainer for straining the resin. Sand board to 150 grit. Some people give the board a bath as well I believe just to be certain there are no contaminants. Everything else is pretty much the same as hotcoating I believe. If you had a email address I’d send you another tip but you don’t, so there.
resinhead,and all others concerned i was only asking those questions to get a understanding of how your glossing. it doesnt matter to me if you build board in the tahj mahall or a closet. i was woundering how you do it? i appologize if it seemed otherwise.
moku,
what kind of temperatures are you trying to gloss at. i use a propane heater to warm the room to at least 68 degrees and a drum warmer now that the nights are getting cold.
try to keep the air and the board and the resin at the same temperature.
ideally 74 degrees.
so ill begin with our sander Gary beecher sand out to 220 so pinlines stay clean. he also sands very well witch gives the gloss the flat look. resin only mimics whats under it so if its a whoopdy woo sand job your gloss will look like woops too.
blow off boards as well as possible. then i drag tape,then i dip my hands in clean acetone and use them as drag cloth, feeling for little things that will become tits once the gloss is applied. maybe two or three rubs per side per board depending on how i feel that morning, day, night.
i tape the boards off at the apex of the rail. so no one side has more curve to sag on.
after taping i go over the board one last time to check for finger prints etc etc.
room goes on lock down. no open doors open windows no fans and deffinatly no dusty shapers.
so here inlies where my mind grasps the whole concept of what im trying to do when i gloss.
im basically trying to BRUSH on a candy shell with perfect even surface tension on the boards im glossing.
a sloppy thick coating is going to run down and off the rails creating a board with seppos.
at each level of application im trying to keep a clean and even application of resin.( i watch the resin load in my brush and resin bead im paint the board with) if i pour to much it takes more brush stokes to make it even. after i apply then i even and then i cross stroke which i was told helps even. then i walk out the board again with even less pressure on the brush keeping it some what dry( not dripping with resin) with the rim of the bucket. ( i do six short board sides out of a bucket)
i personally dont have a whole bunch of resin run over the tape i just make sure i get enough to cover it even down the tape line. sheeting off the tape that hangs and falls will cause uneven surface tension and create seppos.
catalyzation you say.
well all resin manufactures do the in lab test at 74 degrees and find a % to weight ratio. follow it. also mix the stuff well and i mean well.
with even application and properly catalyzed material, worked with at the suggested temperature. i would hope you will find that the seppos should not accure.
i used to fear wind flow catalyzation yaada yada yada but once i got the application on EVEN it didnt seem to matter how slow or fast they went off. even is even.
you want it to polish easy yet too much surfacing agent will dull the gloss…
the polisher who happens to also be the sander comunicates with me as to if i need more or less surfacing agent depending…its a never ending adaptation process today was different than yesterday and tomorrow different than today.
hope this helps
i can get some pics if you need them
peace
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i dip my hands in clean acetone and use them as drag cloth
I hope your putting some gloves on. Acetone can enter the skin quite easily from what I know of it.
look familiar
backin the day gloss was the last step there was no rubout to save ones buttocks.
It’s a small world… Beecher doesn’t know me by name but he might know me by face value…( does Cory still paddle her board out to the kelp bed every day)?Before San Elijo Hills got built I was a regular at that local break. I live near your work so a drive down Polamar Airport Road was about the same as a drive down Rancho Santa Fe. Too much traffic now ,Carlsbad wins…better for you guys…less inlanders!
So back on topic ,
“blow off boards as well as possible. then i drag tape,then i dip my hands in clean acetone and use them as drag cloth, feeling for little things”. WOW ,I work in the chemical industry. I really hope you do not dip your hands in acetone. Bad idea.
Thanks for your input but you never really give out any vital information. 74 degrees is good. How much catalyst are you using? Doesn’t really matter for me. PlusOneShaper already set me straight on glossing a few years back.
Over Five boards a year and still having fun!!!
Stingray
Vader
you cant post enough of your fabulous work.
I love seeing it and strive to get as good as you
seeins how I had this problem once before, Im definetly paying attention to your words of wisdom
the obvious is, fresh and clean surface,
acetone wipe is OK (I do that lately),
temperature over 70deg (air , board and resin)
mix well
apply sparingly
note: sheeting off the tape is bad for it pulls the resin apart,
Is this the standard process ? or did I miss something?
the actetone is clean and my hands are dry before i touch the boards to whipe them down.
i also dont wear a shirt…my teacher did it in flip flops no shirt no mask…“old school”
as far as being standard i dont know what standard is anymore. there are many “schools”
i just do it the way i was tought.
as far as catalyzaton… i dont say cause its diffrent for location cause of tempeture, amount of resin.
contact your resin supplier and ask for a catlyzation chart. takes all the guess work out.
also i have had some long conversatinons with some techs at the resin company and i have learned alot about the limits of the material i use.
resin catalyzed to hot forms a haze in it…not shiney.
too much catalyst has the opposite effect you might think.
there is so much science to it. atoms, molocules, things have to have a even consitant formula to work properly and, get the best results.
…I use styrene instead of acetone to clean the board
acetone can brittle the resin
-from time to time I have problems (sticky) over pinlines
no matter what types (resin, posca, acrylic, poly auto paint)
what do you do when gloss over pinlines?
cause with thicker ones, like with the acrylic, you need a bit of “room” ( to safety) in the gloss thickness (for the polisher)
-sometimes is the amount of wax I think
cause I shooted perfect gloss coats
then in the same room, same temp, same prep, same batch, not so good gloss coat…
thank you
the acetone is to make my hands the slightest bit tacky so the little dust that is stuck to the board will stick to my hands.
exactly how are you using the styrene?
Mate,
How I deal with pinlines or any other colour-work on top of the fillercoat is
to grab small piece of used 600 or 800 wet+dry paper and gently-gently
rub-rub…quite quick and easy once ya get ‘‘the feel’’…
No rejections and smooths off any edges…
Just new to the world of Sways , but am lovin the work of the fella
from the Dark side!!