Glossing Epoxy ..... possible?

I have found a few threads discussing getting a gloss on an epoxy board, most of which involve putting a coat of something else on top of the sanded hotcoat.

Is there no way to do this with the epoxy gloss coat?

On my boards so far I have sanded the hotcaot (220) then applied a glosscoat. When that has set I then hand sand it with wet sand paper going from 320 - 400 -600 -800 - 1000, and then using a cheap car buffer and some Turtle wax buffing compound I give it a good buff. I can get a good ‘shine’ on the boards, but not one of those ‘liquid’ glosses that you see on some poly boards in the showroom.

Now, the reason why I am asking a question covered already, is because when the glosscoat of epoxy has set, it has given the board a ‘liquid’ looking gloss coat. The problem is that my glosscoats usually have a few ‘zits’ on them that require sanding to smooth out.

Is there a way to get a glosscoat to come out with no zits or anything, just a nice smooth gloss finish?

Or is there a way to buff/polish the wetsanded glosscoat to get back that liquid gloss look?

I have looked at an auto supply place near me and they had a 3 stage set of compound for polishing, but at 25$ each stage/bottle, I am hesitating to try what will be a ‘test’.

Any thoughts on this?

My boards are starting to look pretty good, but some of them would look even better with a high gloss finish.

It is possible to polish epoxy. It just isn’t as ‘hard’ as other materials, so you have to be more patient. I used the same grit progression you did, but on the first few grits, to get an idea of how long you have to spend on each, use a magic marker/sharpie. Mark the entire board, everywhere. It is hella fun for the kids, and they can say they helped. Just doodle all over the place. Definitely for before 320 and before 400. when you have taken off all of the sharpie marks, you know you have have gone far enough on that grit. I used to do the same thing when I made optics for a telescope, so you know when to switch grits, as all work done while making optical surfaces is done wet.

After the sanding, I used 3M super duty rubbing compound, with a $30 sander/polisher from harbor freight. I used a wool pad, looks like carpet. Then with Fiberglass supply’s surfboard polish #2. Use a different wool pad for the polish. Came out like so: (if I uploaded the pics right).

I cannot stress enough that you have to wash the board between every grit/compound so that remains of rougher grits don’t keep scratching your surface. May seem like overkill, but it worked for me. Again, stuff I learned making optics.

Your other deal, if it was possible to lay on a coat that just sets glossy; it is possible, just requires the right environment. Any dust shows up as the ‘zits’ you see on the coat. Unless you are in a filtered room wearing a lint free jumpsuit and hairnet, hard to do. So, we wetsand out the defects and polish. But, if you have a decently clean room, and an incredibly clean board, here’s what I do (soulstice helped me a bunch with this):

  1. Measure out your epoxy resin (I now use a scale, hard to find good accurate cups)

  2. Measure 1cc AddF per ounce of resin (same as 2cc per ounce of hardener)

  3. Measure 1cc denatured alcohol per ounce of resin

  4. Measure 1cc X-55 accelerator per ounce of resin

  5. Warm the resin, around 2 seconds in the microwae per ounce of resin

  6. Put your hardener in the container, measuring it on the scale as you go, if you are off a gram or two, no problem, but try to be accurate. It’s not difficult.

  7. Stir for around 30-50 sec, slowly enough that you do not whip bubbles in the mix.

  8. As you keep stirring, add the AddF, DNA, and X-55, I do it one at a time.

  9. Stir for another 30-50 sec, and filter the mix, this is very important. I use the paper paint strainers you can get anywhere. You will be amazed at the amount of junk left in the strainer.

  10. Use a clean brush, wet the brush with the strained epoxy before you start, and get it all on there, 2 sets of cross-strokes & final walkout (per roger brucker), watch out for bristles in the coat. Brush slowly enough not to leave a ton of bubbles behind the brushstrokes.

  11. If you see any bubbles, you can get them with a heat gun, like the black and decker paint stripping gun. PRACTICE with the thing on something that is not important, as you will see that if you leave it on a spot too long, it will crater the coat’s surface, but just enough, and you will see bubbles you didn’t even know were there pop. You will need light at the right angle to see this. Only do this if the coat is still ‘runny’ enough, before it ‘gels’.

It helps to have a warm surface to coat on, really helps everything flow. A hotbox or just leaving the board out in the sun for a little while helps (benny1’s idea). Make sure whatever you use to warm the board doesn’t get dust on it, or zits wil appear. If you have a warm surface, you can skip the DNA in the mixture. I use it because I often coat without a warm surface, to get the mix a little thinner, and I could never get the board warm without getting it dusty.

Hope this helps. I have come close to getting ‘perfect’ coats, but always have some zits and a bristle, eyelash, bug, etc in there.


Hey Max.

Thanks for the detailed reply, that should help me a lot.

Your board in the pic has a great looking gloss, it is good to see that it can be done, and how to do it. I haven’t done the washing between grits, but will try it and I guess it will be worth it to buy some of the compounds I have seen.

Grinding your own optics? That is some past time. :slight_smile: I always enjoy looking up at the night sky when I get a chance, haven’tr been able to afford a decent scope yet and as for making my own… well… maybe that is a project I will take up one day. I’m sure like surfing your own board, seeing one of the planets or a nebula through your own handcrafted scope must be quite a feeling.

Thanks again Max.

Just want to say that is a beautiful swirl!

Hey max. Great shine on those boards mate!

With enough huffing and puffing you can get a shine, ok but most epoxies (im not sure about RR) do not have an UV protective abilities. So you bust your nut over this shine, but then the board yellows like no other.

Instead, less sanding, and a 2pac gloss coat, easier, deeper shine, and your board is UV protected and will take much much longer to yellow.

L

Thanks llilibel.

Had fun doing it too. It is my second one, and the tricks given out here on sways are helping so much. This place is great.

Lavz; RR epoxy has UV inhibitors in it, so you can polish it up and not worry too much.

There is one thing with epoxy that I am starting to notice though… it scratches a lot easier than my friends poly boards. Harder to ding, but watch out for the scratches.

Nice Lavz,

What 2pac do you use… And recommend :smiley:

Thanks mate!

I would love to know how they get a UV resistant epoxy… Living in RR-less land I use “standard” epoxy which works fine, nice clear solid and when using Cyclo Aliphatic Amine as your “b” component you get some protection against yellowing… The only method I can think of for proper UV resistance is adding allumium powder but then you get a metallic board…

Anyway, as we don’t have fancy additives and resins here I just resort to warming the last batch of epoxy (after lam coat has gelled) to about 30-40C and it becomes ultra runny, this can be brushed on to the still rubbery lam coat without sanding, it will chemically bond, gotta love epoxy… anyway if you have a dust-free setup you shouldn’t get too many zits and you pinch out the brush hairs with a tweezer, a hair dryer on max temp will remove most zits during the early gel fase, if you end up with just a couple of zits you can touch them up individually using the same procedure, scrape zit, warm epoxy brushed on the scraped area etc… the relativly long gel time on epoxies is your friend in this process… unless you live in the tropics, we had a heatwave of 30-35C here a few days ago with 80-95% humidity Dang I’ve never seen epoxy smoke and crackle like that before!!

I have heardthat some people actually use a polyester coat to gloss but I fear you will get a purely mechanical bond that will at some point fail. Epoxy and Polyester just don’t bond well in my experience (boat repair, windsurf repair, haven’t built any PU surfboards yet )

maxmercy & johan,

when you do your sanding with the 320, 400, 600… are you doing that dry or with water?

thanks in advance, kev

RR resis are available in Europe from Seabase.

Sand to 1500 before polishing and you’ll get the results your looking for.

Quote:

RR resis are available in Europe from Seabase.

Sand to 1500 before polishing and you’ll get the results your looking for.

I had heard something to this effect. Twice I emailed them for pricing and twice I heard nothing from them…

thanks for the heads up though.

Instead of trying to gloss with epoxy, use UPOL automotive clear coat. It’s a 2 part spray in a can. It comes from Europe so it should be readily available there? Won’t add much weight to the board if that is important to ya.

It’s kind of pricy (10.00 per can) but not much more than mixing up a batch of RR epoxy. Just get your board finish sanded to 220, and spray it on, wet polish out with 600, then 800, your done. It dry’s to touch in a few minutes, and ready to polish in about 3 hrs.

The draw back is that you have to be a fairly good sprayer, and the stuff is cyanide based…so wear your mask or die.

Beautiful gloss job, wondering as far as the blank you used is it eps or polyurethane and if it is eps , did you make the blank or buy it from a supply company, thanks, looking to make some boards and epoxy seems like the best way for a backyard builder.

Hey fellas.

This is the latest board I tried 2pac with.

I did two coats, the first I put on with a brush, just like normal paint nothing special using a 2pac clear.

Sanded back with wet 400 once it was dry the next day to remove zits and pimples and roughen up for the second coat, which i sprayed on.

Still a bit of orange peel effect and zits so i used wet 400 → 600 → 800 → 1200 and then a cutting compound, and it came up sweet!

The reason I am using 2pac, like I said before, is just because the epoxy I am using here in Perth doesn’t have UV stabilisers and so the board yellows very quick. With the 2pac it acts as a sunscreen since it has UV inhibitors.

Doug- the 2pac I use is just from an automotive supplier, its called " HiChem" 2pack paints.

Heres a pic:

Cheers.

Ant

Cheers mate!

Can I ask where you bought that 2pac from?

If i tell you i have to kill you? :wink:

I got it from a place called… dammit, ive forgotten now. Its just an automotive paint supplier, i think it was called Paint Palace or something.

There is others here in perth like Robayne Distributors. Bunnings even has some marine 2pac, they sell Hemple paints, and Hemple is just the brand name, they do a 2pac clear.

If your looking for it, find automotive paint suppliers in the yellow pages, or go to your local panel beater and ask where he gets his or where you can find some.

Cheers

Ant

Cool.

So is there a particular kind of 2pac I should look for? Or will any work fine?

Thanks Ant!

nice one antman

im gunna try and get hold of a one pac brushable car paint that can be polished

i think its POR15 its called

looks sick

also Cabbots have got a new outdoor 1 pac polyureathane

Hey doug - i sent you a PM with all the info .

Cheers Paul, yeah I’m stoked with the way the 2pac came out. Really nice gloss finish, felt baby smooth as well.

That 1pac , does it have UV stabilisers?

ALSO A NOTE FOR EVERYONE: 2pac is nasty bad chemicals, so wear the right air filters in your mask and all safety gear like gloves etc. The standard is actaully an air fed mask for industry pros.

Many thanks to Sabs, Speedneedle and Silly for their help along the way with the 2pac as well. Cheers fellas.

Ant

yep as far as i can tell they both have UV stablizers

i like the idea of just polishing out the ZITS