Gore-tex Vent Plug Install

General Discussion
1

This is an install of the Retrofit Gore-tex vent plugs available through PeteC (Pete Casica). I installed this on my 10’6" SUP. This was my first installation of one of these plugs so I thought I’d post some pics and share what I learned.

First I ran a straight line from tip to tail to locate the ceter as the board is opaque. Then I taped off the area I would be working on in order to protect the board’s finish.

Next was to determine placement. Per directions the vent should be about a third of the board placed center on the deck. For this board I figured approximately 3’5". I then marked my center location and traced the out side of the flange around it. I then cut this area with an exacto knife, but did not remove it. I set my plunge router centered on my mark and traced the outside of the router so I could spray some 77 adhesive in that area.

Once adhesive was sprayed, I then returned the router and removed the tape from the center of my cutout.

I preset the depth on my router; unfortunately, I did not remember the directions which said to cut 3/4" hole depth, allowing for 1/4" space under the vent on a board with a minimum thickness of 1 1/4". All I remembered was 1 1/4" and set my depth. Luckily for me this board is close to 4" in that spot. It may even work better with the deeper hole. Lesson learned: read the directions.

Having removed my tape, I sanded the lip where the flange would sit and then blew out the hole with low pressure.

Next step was to wipe the sides, body and underside of the flange with acetone.

Per directions use either Loctite or Devcon 5min epoxy. I don’t have any pics of this, but you apply the epoxy to the inside corner of the flange and about half way down the body.

Push the plug down into the hole, spreading the epoxy that oozes out around the flange to form a fillet.

I then covered with wax paper and set a phonebook on top till it set.

Finished install minus plug.

Plug is to be inserted with a 16mm sparkplug socket until the o-ring is seated.

Finished Install.

This plug can still be sanded down some; however, I plan on a deck pad for this board.

The directions that come with the vent are very simple and easy to understand. These vents are virtually maintenance free, just rinse the vent with water after each use and inspect twice a year. No more forgetting to put the plug in or removing it. Pete also sells a glass-in version of this plug or you can countersink this one and glass over it.

I hope someone finds this helpful. Thanks again Pete for all the help!

2

thanks for putting that up. Pete has a real good product. I have a couple in boards too.

3

Nice pics, clean install. Is the 5min epoxy sufficient for sealing the vent plug? I’m looking to install my plug but I’m convened about the strength and waterproofing of te 5min epoxy vs. Epoxy resin. Any ideas?

4

I installed this vent in my Infinity SUP last summer and it went well. I keep my board in an air conditioned room and first time I took it surfing with vent the water temp was about 85 degrees. With the board being cool from the AC, when I put it in the water, bubbles started coming out of the vent like I was having a major leak. I freaked, went home and removed the inner piece. Bone dry. I realized that the board was out gassing as it was warming up. This is a cool product.

 

 

f99

5

Hi there,

Nice pics and clean install.  Looks like there is a stringer in that board?  If so, the correct install says you should cross drill on either side of the stringer.  I’m not an expert on these plugs but I’m just going off page 3 of the Gore Install Manual.  You can find the complete Gore Install Manual and other install manuals on our site at FoamEZ.com.  We are stoked to be carrying these Gore Vent Plugs since we believe they are the best vent on the market. 

Good luck-

Brad

[img_assist|nid=1047398|title=GORE VENT PLUG|desc=|link=none|align=left|width=640|height=487]

6

So, you'd need a socket to go in your board bag to travel in an airplane.  Dont forget that.  Along with the fin key!  Did that once, had to remove my fins with a pocket knife.  That was fun....

7

The retrofit vents don’t require cross drilling, as they come pre drilled through. If you route a hole deeper than the plug depth, you create breathability on both sides of the stringer.

I’d be scared to put a drill bit anywhere near the o-ring sealing face.

For safety, I put masking tape on the bottom of the insert housing when I epoxy it into the board. This is just to ensure no excess epoxy runs down the plug and pools in the hole bottom, possibly messing up the threads. After curing, I punch a hole in the tape with a screw driver.

You don’t need to take a socket on vacation with you, when you travel. The gore-tex plug stays in all the time.

For me, none of my sockets fit in the hole. I had to take a bench grinder to my socket to make it thin walled. 

I love the plugs.

8

The Goretex Insert requires a 16mm socket.  Most auto parts stores such as Advance carry them.  Use the socket only to hand tighten the insert.  The socket that I got from Advance fits the vents without any modification.  I'm pretty sure Mr PeteC designed it that way.

regards,

Dave_D 

9

On compsands and timberflex I install the housing before the skin, sand it level with the foam core, then put the skin over it. Hides the housing and looks real tidy.

10

Thanks to all for the kind comments on my vents, and to 9th Island for the great instructions.  Dwight is correct about the cross-drilling, you only need to do this on the non-flanged, straight inserts (glass-in).  The cross-drilling creates “air shafts” which interconnect the spaces between the eps beads to the vent.  You want to drill these as deep as the board thickness permits, and as large (3/16 max) as your possible.  Drill them about 1/8" first, and if your angle is OK, enlarge them.  When using the flanged vents like 9th Island, you want to be sure that you don’t get epoxy into the hole which would seal the eps from breathing.  5 minute works well, and you apply a fillet of it between the flange and the body before installing the insert.

Production builders use the straight inserts, and install them in the blank with  epoxy/micro-balloon mix along with the leash plugs while sealing . You have to babysit  for bubbles a bit.  The insert is glassed directly over, and the board is hotcoated, sanded, glossed, polished.  When everything is done, the masking label is popped out with a screwdriver, the insert is drilled and the vent installed. This method allows some lamination over the insert.

Since I don’t advertise the vents or have a site for them, Brad at Foam EZ is now carrying them to make these easily available.  The design of these vents started with a thread on Swaylock’s, and to have approval from the regulars here means a lot.

11

Pete, what do you think I should do with the cardboard fish build Im doing.  I have 2 vents ordered…is that too many or just enough for the hollow core construction. Also, need some input on installing them, since there is nothing but glass anchoring the vents.

And, yes I got my vents from Brad!  Thanks Brad.  haha

12

Wow, I haven’t been on Sway’s in a while! I was surprised to see this thread getting some recent attention as that was many boards ago. Pete makes a great product and I have yet to have one of his vents fail. Glad to see Foam EZ carrying them.

Aloha, Alex

13

Sorry Nicky, but I don’t think you can vent with that construction unless each of the closedcardboard “cells” are interconnected to each other via a hole or something.

14

There are special cuts in the cardboard, called Key Holes.  So air can get through.  Should the glass be enough to support it?  Thanks for the reply, and email to Brad. 

15

If all of the sections are connected, just install the vent as 9th Island shows (no drilling obviously). 

16

(1) Apply the 1" diameter masking label to the step inside the gray insert  (2) Set insert in blank with epoxy at correct depth.  Half-way up the small angled portion on the top side  (3) Lam over it  (4) Sand insert flush with hotcoat  (5) Do whatever finish on the board  (6) Pop out masking label with a screwdriver (7) Drill holes in the insert to vent  (8) Screw in vent.

https://www.foamez.com/pdfs/GoreVentInstall.pdf

17

got it,

 

So mine where missing a few things. they just came with the gore plug and the grey housing.

So I want the plug to stay under the glass the entire time ( the grey housing) and just clear the hole to the vent with a router or drill.

18

The socket is 16mm,  5/8" looks like it will fit but is too big. 

You can install the glass-in types just as bb30 has shown, but I designed them to go in the blank before lamination just like a side finbox.  The trick is to get them sunk at the correct depth so the cloth doesn’t tent, but still gets sheared off at sanding.  The instructions that come with the vents show exactly how deep.  The under-lam procedure is:  (1) Bore hole,  (2) Apply masking label and set insert with epoxy filler mix -2 fills,  (3) Let cure, (4) Lam, hotcoat, sand, and finish board.  During sanding, the top of the insert will be sanded off, shearing the glassing and the insert will be flush to the deck.  If the inserts was sunk to the proper depth, there will be a small perimeter of glass around it to hold it in better.  Pop out the masking label with a screwdriver.  Drill the cross-holes or single hole (stringer/no stringer) and blow it out thoroughly.  It’s important to clean out the hole since any debris will blow up against the bottom of the membrane.  Screw in the membrane vent, 1/2 FOOT-LB MAXIMUM.  It’s just a hollow plastic bolt and will break if more torque is applied.  1/2 ft-lb is just over hand-tight, enough to compress the silicone O-ring.  Don’t worry about it coming loose, plastic scews and bolts do not vibrate or loosen like metal ones once tightened.  Also, the O-ring acts like a lockwasher.  

There’s some postings on youtube (not mine) showing under-lam installs.  Please PM me if any special help is needed or you would like a set of install instructions which cover hollow-core boards and other construction.

19

One thing – the socket for the gore-tex vent has to be a cheap one – like from harbor freight.  The good ones like Craftsman,etc are too big to fit!

20

Last pic is board getting final or gloss coated. Carefully cut the layer of fiberglass and tape with a small router bit. Sand or use a deburring tool to smooth out your vent body.  The clay that came with my FCS plug original kit is stuffed in the hole to protect the threads and inside wall ofr the vent body from epoxy 

Take clay out when just past sticky on the gloss coat.  Kneed the clay and use it for decades to come.

 

I also add milled fibers to the epoxy for tooth paste think consistancey with the placement.

 rookie mistakes include…Drill too deep? I add  balsd wood to adjust height.

Wobbly on the hole part? Milled fibers and epoxy fill the gap nicely.

 

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